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Setup Hints

Discussion in 'Stock Car Extreme Setups' started by Niels_at_home, Jul 23, 2011.

  1. Niels_at_home

    Reiza Studios

    Just to avoid confusion, both Peug and Chevy use exactly the same chassis and have only got micro differences in body work. I believe they even did wind tunnel testing to make sure they behave the same. In the game, they are identical in physics.

    We spent quite some time on the default setup and most of the time it will be a case of practising more rather than adjusting the setup. A realistic wheel setup would be 540 degrees, with between 18 and 22 degrees in the car setup. Of course always make sure there are no driving aids still on! Also get rid of any speed sensitivity in the controls menu.

    From the default setup,you can soften the front antirollbar, or if that isn't enough, stiffen the rear one a bit to get in general more oversteer. At higher speed circuits, reducing rear wing can also create more oversteery car. Apply these opposite of these adjustments if you want less oversteer.

    If you have good control over your braking, set the brake pressure to 100%, but be careful of locking the tires. Downshifting can be pretty early, which real drivers do in these cars to help them slow down. The engine is pretty durable so there is a good chance it can survive some abuse.

    It is not important to get identical inner / middle / outer temperatures. Negative camber is more important, and tire temperatures between 75 and 110 are the best for grip. Camber differences between front and rear are also subtle understeer / oversteer adjustments; typically more negative camber creates a bit more cornering grip, but at the rear too much does harm traction, although not by a huge amount.

    Finally ride heights are important as the tracks are quite bumpy and you don't want to hit the ground too often. Just as important is how ride heights change the downforce! When the front is low to the ground, more downforce sits on the front of the car. That means that lowering the rear, or raising the front, moves the downforce to the back of the car, adding stability (or understeer) at higher speeds. The opposite is also true, a low front and high rear move the aero forwards, creating a less stable or more oversteery car at high speeds.

    Softer springs increase the brake 'dive' and acceleration 'lean' of the car, which also changes the front and rear ride heights, so a softer setup might handle bumps better, but it will move the downforce about somewhat during the phases of braking / corner entry / corner exit. A stiffer car has less ride height fluctuations and will be more stable with downforce, but bumps could cause the car to bounce more, which might upset the rideheights (and downforce / balance) more than a softer setup!

    Most of all, be smooth with your driving. You go on the brakes hard, then slowly come off the brake as you turn into a corner. Another tip could be to look at the SRT videos, and then don't drive like that! No throttle dabs under braking, no brake modulation, just on hard, then slowly off. Remember, the slower and smoother you are with the car, the faster it goes!
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  2. Great tips!! I love driving tips.

    Could you do some tutorial videos?? Like que best point to start breaking and the best line on the track. If possible, in the future the gost car would be the best.

    Thank you Reiza, your sim is the best one!!
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  3. Yeah, excellent tips thanks for this!

    Just one thing though you say no throttle dabs... do you mean bliping on down shift? I do Heal and Toe and blip the throttle on downshift because that's what I'm used to... habit really. Should I not do this with GSC?
    I've also found that trail braking into some corners has helped to get the car rotated and squared up the corner.... compared to other sims I'm using that is.

  4. Niels_at_home

    Reiza Studios

    Throttle blips during downshifts are good of course. Blipping the throttle on downshifts is only done with a disconnected engine (clutch pressed or gears in neutral) so in that case throttle doesn't go to the tires.

    I mean the throttle simracers seem to randomly add when braking, usually for the entire length of the brake zone. I've seen simracers use throttle and brake together as if they're cycling! Then other simracers see the videos and try to adopt the same style thinking its the route to faster times. The throttle is for going faster, the brake is for slowing down. There is no need to mix the two up, it gets confusing.. :)
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  5. Thanks for the clarification and I use the clutch for downshifts with a throttle blip in a Heal and Toe operation :)
    Yes I would get very frustrated with many people in iRacing doing the part throttle braking for stability and I would lose out as I'm a right foot braker. Anyway it sounds like what I'm doing here in GSC is realistic.
  6. PieterN

    Premium Member

    Thank's Niels. Very useful thread !
  7. So simple!

    The best tips from long time!

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  8. Fabulous, thanks!
  9. Thanks but my brake pressure won't go above 90% for some reason. Any advice? I can adjust between 80%-90% only.
  10. mydriaz

    Premium Member

    Thanks for your advise :)
  11. Totally normal thing. Blocked like this.
  12. Yeah that's what I have been told but the video posted that shows a lap at interlagos 1.36 default setup shown he had 95% brake pressure, that's what got me wondering.
  13. That was with the V1.6 I think. Blocked with V1.7.
  14. So 540 degrees on my Logitech Profiler (I own a G25 set) will have the same amount of wheel rotation in the game as I do in real life, without having to go full lock for medium-tighter corners? I just go crazy when I can't get the game to properly steer with a reasonable enough wheel input.

    I know open wheelers aren't the best example but it highlights one good extreme: If I set my .plr file to correspond to my profiler's lock, the game has a 1:1 match with the wheel but I have to go 540-900 lock to do a 90 degree corner (or get out of the box). That leads to then setting wheel to 330 and having every tin top not be able to steer enough for some very tight corners.

    I hope I am clear enough and that I am able to obtain help without having to always switch the wheel lock in the profiler and in the .ini files. Thanks.

    Edit: Under what circumstances should I have the wheel profiler NOT allow the game to change settings?
  15. Bram

    Roaring Pipes Maniacs | #27 Staff Premium Member

    When increasing the degrees of rotation you have to do the same for the steerlock accordingly.

    With 540 degrees in the profiler you will need 22 steerlock in the game. You can find the steerlock in the car setup menu (general tab)
  16. with the new league aorund the corner, im sure more setups will be posted, i will be posting some once i get back into the swing of things :)
  17. moved.
  18. Chris, here's what I have in the logitech profiler...

    First thing is to setup a new game profile. And for anyone else is unsure how to setup a profile. I'll start from the beginning.

    First click the 'Profile' tab:


    That opens a new window:


    Name the profile.

    Next browse to where GSC is installed (may differ to mine above), click the 'GSC.exe' file to highlight.

    Can also select an icon, you should get the GSC icon, Click ok to finish.


    Once a profile is added, can now setup specific settings for the game.

    Click the 'Edit' tab - from the dropdown menu select > 'Specific Game Settings'

    You will get this new window:


    The above is what I found to get rid of the loose feeling. Also as mentioned in a previous post above. In game, the 'Force Feedback Strength' is also set to -100%.

    -100% - Gets rid of the excessive pulling to the left and right on the wheel.

    Once the profile is added, the specific settings are done, you can now 'select a game' option to load the GSC profile. And now Click 'Play game stock to boot the game.


    These settings work for me, you might find you need them slightly different. But one thing it did is get rid of the loose steering.

    Hope this helps :)

    PS - when going back to race 07, I load a profile specific to that game. Mine is exactly the same as my logitech global profile settings.

    The profiler also has an automatic profile loading under the 'Options' tab. I've never used it, I always loaded the logitech profiler, selected a game profile manually, then boot the game from there.
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  19. Hi Neil, thanks for sharing. Tried your tips and they are keepers for me. :thumbsup:
  20. Bram

    Roaring Pipes Maniacs | #27 Staff Premium Member

    Centerspring on 110%. Why so high? Totally ruins the steering behavior imo. I have it set to zero %
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