Season 8 Race 5 Melbourne - Setup thread

I used the setup from this post:http://www.racedepartment.com/forum...lbourne-setup-thread.25140/page-2#post-786274 That's Reiks setup from season 6. I found the main difference, enngine mappings are something i just need to lower. Otherwise my setup was pretty similar. Managed to do 1:24.5 with my setup. I used wings of 5/33 (i think, 5 in the front i'm sure..), will lower them if i feel comfortable, there's so many corners that feel safe with higher wings. There's about a second of improvement left, this track is so familiar that i just know i won't be doing 1:22 anytime soon. That could happen, i wasn't expecting a 1:11 in Montreal but it magically just worked over one lap.

Something i noticed when doing straight line aerotests that if you raise front wing by 1, rear wing needs 4 clicks to get somewhat equal aerobalance. Lowest rear wing setting is basically 4, anything under that lowers the top speed: there not nough grip anymore. The same effect was with 2/8 and 3/12... Over 3 starts to get a bit murkier as the downforce in the rear creates enough grip that topspeed is not a good tool anymore. I'll report the results when i figure out a good test procedure, probably with friction circle...

1 click front wing = -2km/h and 3 click rear wing = -1km/h was another result that appeared a lot.
 
RoadDryGrip = 1.00
RoadWetGrip = 0.75
PlayerTireWear = 1.0
FrontTireHeatMult = 1.00
RearTireHeatMult = 1.00
RoadBumpAmp=0.010
RoadBumpLen=13.0

That means the track has default values in dry and a slippery wet. I'll check how the track uses the special road materials but what i gather, it has only one tarmac all over, including runoffs. The track has constant wave of +/-1cm amplitude spanning 13 meters, practically it is completely flat.Since there is no entry on rumble, it uses default values for that too:

RumbleDryGrip=0.95
RumbleWetGrip=0.60
RumbleBumpAmp=0.015
RumbleBumpLen=8.0

Some stuff about tracks:

The game uses those bumb amplitudes to simulate small imperfections that are hard to produce otherwise and to correct some flaws. The next gen simulators will use similar system but for ex rFactor2 uses millimeters where as all gMotor2 titles use centimeters (rF2 is so precise that the existing tracks are way too inaccurate for it..).. It's mainly there to produce some noise since completely flat surfaces don't work properly with the collision algorithms: the tire would "sink" and bounce back suddenly, now it moves all the time and such mistakes are much more rare and smaller in magnitude. I presume that gMotor2uses GJK algorithm but i haven't got a clue how it works, all i know that the algorithm has certain flaws, read more here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gilbert–Johnson–Keerthi_distance_algorithm

HAT: ( HAT = Height Above Terrain, an abbreviation that is just awful since HAT follows the terrain height.. In theory, it should always be above it..)

If you look tires very closely in replay super slow motion, they sometimes sink thru the surface and sometime they float on top of it. The HAT is the actual data we are driving upon and it isn't always following exactly the actual track geometry, it is created in a different process. Actual track geometry is used for real time collision detection, HAT is used for real time driving surface/tire interaction... The difference is that HAT is optimized for smaller changes and collision detection uses much more elaborate guesses. In a rule of thumb is that HAT uses 1cm and collision uses 10cm marginals.It is not uncommon for a car to sink in the wall as much as 50cm before bouncing back: Take a car and crash it 400km/h in to a brickwall, it can go even thru some objects before collision detection reacts and yanks them back to realisticcrash location.. I've made some "pinball" objects using double collision detection bug thatmakes the car eject the car with more speed than it crashed in the first place ;) Very funny when it bounces between two of these objects and finaly flys going 6000km/h in the air...

I have no idea why i wrote all this, maybe it helps us understanding how and why things happen in the game.
 
Okay, the track definitely has only one grip level. It uses (possibly) the more bumby b2road material in some places, fortunately those have their own textures like here in the last turn:

Melbourne_materials.jpg


The bumb Amplitude is 0.024, Length 14.0m so it's not very bumby. Maybe enough to show some slip, the car easily starts to skid in that place but not because of lo grip. EDIT: b2road has the same grip as the normal roada...
 
Whilst you are looking into the Melbourne track Kennet, is there any obvious reason why when there is a "full grid" that a car or two will "drop" out of place and on to the front wing of another car already on the grid? Unfortunately, it is a very common occurance in the league races. I can't recall a single Presto league event [@Melbourne ] where someone [or two] did not have this issue.
 
I'll check what i'll find in the AIW file that has all the drivingline and pit/grid/garage information... If i find the culprit, i'll fix it and release a patch. AFAIK releasing a fix is not "illegal" but i'll check if i can get in contact with the authors. Not expecting to find anything, sometimes the game just does these weird things.. Basically, if the AIW has placed some gridslots underground, the car can jump in the air. If not, then i have no idea.
 
I have no idea why i wrote all this, maybe it helps us understanding how and why things happen in the game.


Thank you Kennet for writing all these information, i like what you write , but i find it hard to understand and link any of the information above to use it when doing setup for each track.

My question is, how can we benifit from your knowledge in this area to help us to understand the setup effects on track so we can create better setups that suit the characteristic of each track..?

Cheers

Anthony.
 
If you have any questions, i'll be happy to share the knowledge. I've got mine from the community for free so... There are some terms and definitions that i take as granted and it's so easy to skip some important basic stuff. I'm still learning, some of the info is only six months old and some of it is not comfirmed but based on educated guesses. But since i've somehow now the go-to-guy in the BTB forum, i've used to explaining stuff over and over again (damned, why can't those newcomers learn how to use search...) And i like teaching, hopefully one day i get payed to do it...

EDIT: When i get the Presto Test Facility finished, i'll show how to change track parameters so you can test how different grip levels really feels like.. Even increasing track grip by 1% has a real tangible effect on feel and lap times. I can easily share this info since you can't use it to cheat online, Race07 has pretty good system to prevent it...
 
I'm having troubles on couple of corners, 3, 9 and sometimes on 6. The problem is the transition from brakes to power, inside wheel starts spinning very early and it is hard to stop that spin too. I've reduced diff power but should i go really under 10 in this kind of track?
 
I'm having troubles on couple of corners, 3, 9 and sometimes on 6. The problem is the transition from brakes to power, inside wheel starts spinning very early and it is hard to stop that spin too. I've reduced diff power but should i go really under 10 in this kind of track?
I don't know if you know :) but:
Thanks to very extensive research done by Brendan Crosby, it was discovered that the Diff Power setting visibile in-game GUI is actually the Diff Pump setting [What does that do?]. I/ we believe it is an error in the mod.

To adjust the Diff Power you need to do it by directly editing the Setup file {using Notepad or the Race 07 Setup editor app]

From your description of wheel slip, perhaps increasing the Diff Preload might help you with the balance.
 
Yeah, i know about the diff/pump mixup, i'm using setup editor to do my setups. I read the lengthy tutorial from season 4 ( or something, long time ago..) so i know most of the peculiarities of this mod.. This mod begs for V2, it is possible to do in a relative short timespan have real range for the front springs for ex. but.. well, there's load of buts. Pun not intended. But it would be nice to have 40 as minimum springs to get those third springs in action, wouldn't it?

Preload is at 2. I'll try to decrease power lock to 5 then and preload to 1. They are slow corners, maybe softer rear springs? I really dont want to lose more time in the T11-12 mostly because of already present understeer in high speed corners. Well, more than necessary, all high speed corners should be a little understeering, that info is from some F1 documentary and it makes sense. There is some marginal left in rear stiffness like dropping rear fast rebound seems to help with the curbs; there's a lot of curbhopping. Or it could be a combination of the to: suspension and differential.

If i send my setup can someone take it for a spin and without adjusting anything tell me how they feel it behaves? Gamerig is in standby, don't want to wake up ... hmm, my rig needs a name, can't think of one now... let's call her Jane for now: I don't want to wake Jane up for such a small task, i'll wake her up tomorrow. It would be helpful to get a second opinion.
 
I'll try to decrease power lock to 5 then and preload to 1

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong:confused: but... if your spinning up the inside rear wheel you should try to increasing the power lock value? more power "lock" (tighten up the diff) less slip in the diff when booting it out of slower corners, it will give you oversteer in the slower exits tho, and some tendancy to understeer in the faster corners?


Jim
 

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