Season 11 race 5 Abu Dhabi setup

For the second test I took my latest Suzuka setup and tweaked it only a little bit. It works very well to me. Nevertheless it's very tricky to drive qickly as the track is so demanding. It's amazing how sensible the input of throttle, brake and steering has to fit together in some parts of the track and how easy it is to destroy a lap... ;)

Edit: Just saw David did a 52:3xx! :confused: So I suggest we better wait for his setup, lol. :whistling:
 

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Good to know that Suzuka with aero changes work, that my best setup so far. Monza wasn't bad either. Using 'old-RBR' style with short gears, limited top speed and high wings just works with me.


to be honest kennett i think the setups i still use are a constant evolution from the decent setup i made back at last seasons melbourne, it formed a very good base for everything ive had afterwards, this season ive used parts of seans setups more to help in my own, my own personal preference is always towards understeer on any track but at abu it helps to have the rear planted and use the throttle to rotate the car more so the balance is crucial, suzuka was a good base because of the high speed aero needed, here is alot the same in 2 of the sectors so its a compromise all the way through.
 
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Managed to fix my pedals, they were peaking horribly. It had something to do with setup changes (lower engine mapping), i was basically using either neutral throttle or 100%, there were no 80 or 90%, just 0-50 and 100% :rolleyes: I could do smoother transitions in higher throttle but i needed press the pedal in certain manner to eliminate sideways movement above 50%, then press firmly to get the last 95-100%... Wasn't really a problem but required some extra concentration. I don't expect anything getting any faster, things should only get slightly easier. edit: yup, everything feels more solid.. Really slow, could do only 59s.. But it was a sighting laps with high fuel, no real setup yet.

Fabricated new metal plain bearings, the plastic was pretty much worn out in to grooves. So i added 0.5mm thick aluminium sheet rolled in to shape, sanded and lightly polished between the plastic axel and the old plastic bottom "half pipes" (top halfs have much better design and had not cause any noticeable wear). Throttle moved about ½cm sideways, Momos pots really don't like that. Now there's ~1mm and no spiking. I also secured the pots better and because of that extra 0.5mm, i have about a turn in each of the screws to get the whole thing tighter when the eventual tear on the moving parts hits. Should hold for a year (i'll check within a month if there is excess wear..) I've planned to do this since the first time i opened the pedals but possibly it was doable only now that the parts had worn out enough to fit the metal sheet..
 
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sean said he felt it was too tail happy too, i must admit i dont feel that, it feels planted to me, but like i said im controlling it more with throttle here than i would normally, id usually just turn in, wait, wait, then get power on, here i can turn in and already be on the power before ive even lifted off half way, not been on for a few days so i'll try get on tonight and if i revise my setup any i'll post it up :thumbsup:
 
new pb tonight of 1.52.2

heres the setup, modified from the last one significantly, feels very stable to me.

:thumbsup:

Definitely gonna test, the last one was really fast (pedals working 100% gives that throttle control you talk about but it takes some time to get used to it.). I felt like i could drop another second from race pace with just better throttle control on that 3/4 part, ~75% throttle. Track needs a lot different style, found that i really needed that pointy nose to get good laptimes. 1:58-59 seemed the limit of what i could do with understeering car, that two second drop was all setup giving possibilities of approaching corners differently. It could be that i can dial more understeer now that the lines and braking points are better optimized.
 
Better, the same behavior where rear snap at slightest touches from the curbs and i do curb hopping quite a lot.. But just lowering fast rebound values worked, i'll use David setup as a base :thumbsup:

Ended up with weird gearing when i concentrated mainly on the last part of the track, short 1st and 2nd, long 3rd and then short 4-6. I'm almost at 3rd gear in the last corner (was going 1:56.9 before losing it in the last turn trying to take it in 3rd, spun out, weirdly, didn't think i had enough power to do that on 3rd...) Works quite well and reduces gear shifts quite a lot, it should be enough on the straights, it felt like a rocket with such a short 1st and 2nd gear but they work so nicely on the first hairpin complex, better rhythm (all around actually). That 1:56 with half a tank and few laps old tires will be the fastest (almost) time for me, getting very close to limits.
 
Ive been using my Singapore made I from Davids slight modified not had much practise but feels pretty solid, wasn't comfortable with Davids although could do around same times just rear would trouble me now and again.
 

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Wow, you guys are really at another level who can develop these setups for every race. I envy you!

I want to experiment a bit myself :p I just tried reik-bc, and I have always problems tailbreaking - seems like you guys' driving-styles differ. You must use constant throttle to balance the over-steer? But my point of view is that you have to brake earlier then. What do you think?

Any tips how I can trail-brake without having to keep throttle at 20-30%?

change the diff coast-setting? preload? I have never udnerstood the diff settings really :S
 
You can't trailbrake without using throttle, trailbraking is balancing the car with throttle while decreasing brake pressure.. I got some problems in that area too, i'm too much stop&go during braking. Sometimes i managed to hit just the right speed and manage to trailbrake more, keep higher speed thru the corner and it's always two tenths advantage per corner.. Usually this happens when i brake too late and think i've lost it.. I think this can be only learned thru immense amounts of practice. Some people fall in to it naturally (and i think this is the "how come you're so slow, this is easy" thinking that follows.. not accusing anyone, i think so too on matters that are natural for me, i can't figure out how it feels of not having that talent..)

With F1 increasing engine brake mapping helps (it increases fuel consumption), on these i don't think it resolves anything, these engines have totally different torques. Didn't feel such a high change with F3000 even on max setting but then again i always start to feather the throttle anyway when i hit 2nd gear.
 
Yeah, I think I understand. But there must be smoother and more distinct settings of the differential I imagine? Those should suit different driving-styles I'm guessing.

And I've been thinking about the optimal gearing and esp, RPMs for changing gears. I dont know about different engine mappings - those change the torque-graphs? Where can I find info about those and how are settings made? I've never heard of that befor for Rac07 :) Are such graphs available for some mathematical integral analysis for the student studying M.Sc in computers? ;)
 

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