PC1 Project CARS Thrustmaster T500RS settings

[Enagee]

Got Project cars on preorder and looking forward to release day, am hoping to start racing straight away without too much messing about with settings.
Thought I'd look around for some wheel and ingame settings with Thurstmaster T500RS but can't find much as I haven't got access to WMD forums.
Any early access users out there mind sharing wheel and ingame setups?

Thanks

 

[Igor Trendafilovski]

Hello guys,

Just got the game and to be honest feeling bit disappointed. Main issue is the force feedback and the feeling of the car.. It feels like there are no road bumps (but the car is all over the place) and the kerbs are a joke, losing grip feels no different then full grip. Also, every car seems to have a completely different force feedback with the same settings.

Has anyone figured out how to set up the wheel?

I was thinking that it might be a calibration issue because it certainly feels not connected to the road.

Please help, this is unbearable..

EDIT: Forgot to mention that i am playing the game on PS4

 

[weazel970]

I have the exact same thing happening on pc with my tx wheel... you literally have no idea what your car is about to do, its all by sight not feel. Currently updating drivers to see if that does anything.. its a long shot but still giving it a go

 

[Igor Trendafilovski]

Yeah i think that lots of people feel the same as us, but also some people have managed to configure their wheels and ffb and they seem quite happy with it so thats why i think the actual problem is in the configuration, not the game itself.
I hope someone can help us and put an end to this misery because the game is unplayable like this :/

 

[Enagee]

Maybe am getting used to it or just accept its not AC....but am beginning to be at one with project Cars...
Various menus don't help but beginning to understand the menus ...Thanks Skazz and bmanic

 

[Msportdan]

http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/get-the-correct-steering-lock.105284/

 

[William Wester]

WMD members have been testing/playing/tweaking/testing/playing/tweaking... for the past few years. For the most part members have been very happy with the FFB, and based on early feedback the general public seems to be also. There seems to be more happy than not.
With that said, there does seem to be some wheels in particular and/or some wheels on a particular platform that do not feel right with the default settings. I have to believe it is a matter of finding the right configuration, lord knows there are a ton of configurable options.
I'm lucky that my Thrustmaster TX feels great with default settings even though I may tweak for a particular car to my preference. Not many sims (actually can't think of any) provide FFB configuration parameters PER CAR.
I hope most everyone can find the settings to meet their expectations but FFB is VERY subjective. Many games ADD effects that you would not normally feel in a IRL car, then it becomes an expectation.

 

[Skazz]

I know what you mean, I had a very unsatisfactory attempt to get the T500 feeling good last night.

Simple stuff you can do in the wheel configuration and advanced calibration screens:

• Turn off damping (default is 25%)
• Turn up FFB to 100% and Tyre Force down to 50% or lower. Or alternatively leave tyre force at 100% and reduce FFB down to something like 55-65%. I'm still not sure what the real difference is.
• Add 0.05-0.08 deadzone removal.

More advanced calibration tweaking:
you can make the wheel behave in a less linear manner, to accentuate the little forces like road bumps. Stuff which has always worked well for that (but seems less effective now than months ago) is:

• Relative Adjust Gain = 0.98
• Relative Adjust Bleed = 0.10
• Relative Adjust Clip = 96
• Scoop Knee = 0.70
• Scoop Reduction = 0.15

Beyond that, it's all about changing values in the FFB per car (via the garage). Which gets time consuming.

I was getting decent road feel with these settings last night on the laser scanned tracks and parts of the Nordschleife, but other tracks felt very dead, as if something is missing,

 

[William Wester]

I found a very simple guide the "may" work for many as a good starting point - everyone's mileage may vary.

Project CARS short guide to FFB parameters:
Credit to Remco Van Dijk (WMD)

General FFB strength
Output strength of the FFB to the wheel after it has been calculated by the FFB engine. This is basically the final 'volume' adjustment of the FFB. This means that if the FFB is clipping, turning the FFB strength down won't help anymore.

Tyre Force
This is the strength of the tyre contribution to the FFB, which is also the main contributor to the FFB. If the FFB is too high or too low for all cars, you can adjust this value to get it equally stronger/weaker for all cars.

The car-specific settings
These you want to adjust when the FFB of one car is good while for the next car it's too weak or strong (or has a wrong subjective balance of the individual force contributors).

Spindle Master Scale: this scales the forces below it equally up and down, i.e. it's the FFB 'volume knob' specifically for that car. Turn it down if the FFB is clipping, and up if it's too weak.
Fx: this is the FFB component representing the longitudinal force on the tyre contact patch. This should determine FFB when accelerating or braking, but I haven't really experimented with this one yet.
Fy: this is the FFB component representing the lateral force on the tyre contact patch. Very important for feeling mass transfer/inertia of the car when cornering.
Fz: this is the FFB component representing the vertical force on the tyre contact patch. This plays an important part in the 'road feel' of the FFB, i.e. when going over bumps in the road.
Mz: this is the FFB component representing the twisting force of the wheels, i.e. rotation along the vertical axis of the wheel. It is the self-aligning force of the wheels into the driving direction and is most important for getting the 'classic' feel of the FFB getting lighter when the front tyres lose grip.

So when you want a particular force to stand out in the FFB, raise its relative contribution to the total FFB, and after that adjust the Spindle Master Scale value if necessary to get the FFB stay within the full range (i.e. not clipping or getting too weak).

 

[Karenius]

I don't get any feedback when braking at all, I don't know if I'm locking up my tires or not.
Can anyone help? T500 RS

 

[Carlos Panades]

Where is the damping setting? I only see a setting for linkage damping, is this the one that should be 0?

Damper is in the main option menu, control settings.

 

[Igor Trendafilovski]

I know what you mean, I had a very unsatisfactory attempt to get the T500 feeling good last night.

Simple stuff you can do in the wheel configuration and advanced calibration screens:

• Turn off damping (default is 25%)
• Turn up FFB to 100% and Tyre Force down to 50% or lower. Or alternatively leave tyre force at 100% and reduce FFB down to something like 55-65%. I'm still not sure what the real difference is.
• Add 0.05-0.08 deadzone removal.

More advanced calibration tweaking:
you can make the wheel behave in a less linear manner, to accentuate the little forces like road bumps. Stuff which has always worked well for that (but seems less effective now than months ago) is:

• Relative Adjust Gain = 0.98
• Relative Adjust Bleed = 0.10
• Relative Adjust Clip = 96
• Scoop Knee = 0.70
• Scoop Reduction = 0.15

Beyond that, it's all about changing values in the FFB per car (via the garage). Which gets time consuming.

I was getting decent road feel with these settings last night on the laser scanned tracks and parts of the Nordschleife, but other tracks felt very dead, as if something is missing,

I must say the ffb set to 50 and tire force to 100 it helped a bit, but still not a sweet spot in terms of the actual feeling. I am starting to question the actual tracks, for example in Barcelona on the T4 outside kerb the feedback is amazing and you can feel every twitch the car makes, compared to the rest of the track where the feeling is quite bland.

 

[vquaresma]

The link to the post in german was very useful.

Darin Gangi from ISRTV uploaded a video about ffb settings worth to check it out:

 

[RobertLidstroem]

I have way too much deadzone, even if i have it down to 0....i can turn the wheel (T500RS)atleast 5-10 degrees, without anything happening....bugs me like hell....i want direct control. I have the latest drivers and good settings in the setup of T500 (works perfect in iracing, GTR2, AC, rfactor.....) Any ideas?

 

[RobertLidstroem]

Not sure if this is the problem with every wheel (but from steam forms i think it is), but i found out the issue. I set ffb to 100 in both game and t500 control panel (only for testing what each force ingame does).
I turned on the clipping tool (kinda a clipping tool) its under game options/ game/ HUD / clicked it over from: none/min/full/ telemetry. Once i had telemetry running a line graph appears on the upper left hand corner of your screen and lets you know when ffb is being sent to the wheel.

This is when i found out the issue, with all the forces maxed the graph let me know that almost no forces where going to the wheel when driving in a straight line (wheel straight) but ohh baby did that change when i turned the wheel. The line started going all over the place (I felt the gear changes, some bumps, etc) but only when the wheel was at a angle. I took the car off road and with the wheel straight felt nothing 100 ffb set in game and nothing (crazy) and very little data was being sent to the wheel, but when the wheel is in any other position then straight the wheel is being sent all kinda info, i.e ffb. It seems that even with dead-zone set to zero in game their is still an artificial dead-zone with the wheel. I'm going to continue to play with this

Exactly my feeling, and i hate it! I want direct feeling....not 5-10 percent turning before anything happens...like you said, artificial deadzone!

 

[cthiggin]

Hi folks,
Have T500RS and have started using "Jack's" FFB files............and they seem to be really good in comparison to default.

I have read so many threads that I am now more confused than ever - spindle/lateral/longitual/up/down, well, you get the jest............just so much to encompass in comparison to AC.

Would you be so kind as to tell me the ONE area I should deal with to get more feel of road bumps, kerbs, etc............again, Jack's files are great, I just need for feedback more bumps etc.

Thanks in advance,

Tom

 

[ONT]

The feel of road bumps is really track dependent to

I think there is good amount of bumps at Willow Springs, Nords, Watkins for testing, to name a few.

Some tracks are correctly just smooooooooth.

 

[Jake Adams]

Im using Jacks files too and liking them but with the karts when stopped or at the start of the race the wheel violently shakes. How do I stop that.

 

[swerver]

I'm also using jack's xml and it made a huge difference with my T500RS. Started out using the settings outlined at the start of this thread, which while giving more feeling for the FFB, didn't give much in the way of bumps or curb feeling. The xml file helped massively though and the FFB is starting to feel more like how it should feel in pCARS now. Anyone who has a T500 should try the xml:

http://www.racedepartment.com/threa...ble-for-enhanced-feel-from-jack-spade.105453/

 

[Edu Martinez]

Last week I tried stock FFB and it was OK. But these tried and tested settings on my T500 still felt better. All credit to bmanic for his awesomeness at tuning FFB:

Damper = 0
Force Feedback = 60

Tire Force = 100
Change the following settings but leave the rest below Tire Force unchanged:
Deadzone Removal Range = 0.05-0.08 (depends on your preference)
Relative Adjust Gain = 0.98
Relative Adjust Bleed = 0.10
Relative Adjust Clamp = 0.96
Scoop Knee = 0.70 (this is the most important one)
Scoop Reduction = 0.10

I am sure the community will swiftly embrace tweaks per wheel and per car, since that is really needed for optimal results. If you are going to change anything from stock, remove the damping and drop the FFB from default 75 down to 60, then add deadzone removal. If you want a more "dynamic" experience the scoop setting is I believe the most vital one to play with.

This @Skazz post is the best post about FFB in PCars.
I got a feeling very similar to AC, even better. Feeling smooth, a bit weaker under low downforce and the more downforce the stronger FFB, with the feeling too when your front tyres start to slide.

The hint is Scoop Knee like @Skazz said. That is what gives the that feeling weak and strong progressively FFB.

I have 60/100/100/0/0 in the Thrustmaster drivers too (it works fine in AC, R3E and iRacing), but FFB in PCars 35-38%, so I can countersteer. More than that makes the wheel really hard, rock. I feel everytime the car, when the front tyres start to lose grip, the rear tyres too, how in slow turns the FFB starts to be weaker and in fast turns stronger until the tyres start to slide. Of course the weight transfer.
Specialy in LMP and other prototypes the feeling is awesome.


My settings are: (copied from Skaaz with Little modiffications):
Damper = 0
Force Feedback = 60

Tire Force = 100
Deadzone Removal Range = 0
Relative Adjust Gain = 0.30 (because much more I feel the FFB a bit loose, less steady)
Relative Adjust Bleed = 0.10
Relative Adjust Clamp = 0.96
Scoop Knee = 0.65 (a bit less to feel the FFB in the slow turns not too much weak in some cars)
Scoop Reduction = 0.10
I kept dampers 25.
Spindle Master Scale: In game, I set a bit more, 26-32 if I feel the FFB weak and 22-26 if I feel it too strong. At the end it is like adjust the FFB.
I have no FFB clip and I feel smooth the wheel traction the car after a turn.

Thanks a lot to @Skazz because he found the big tip: Scoop Knee

 

[Enagee]

Kurb n Bumps Effects setting T500RS

SoP Scale 100
SoP Lateral Scale 70
SoP Differential Scale 100
SoP Damping 0.0

I can feel alot more bumps on Brands Hatch

Settings from Scrogg
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22885-Settings-for-my-T500RS-with-Kurb-Effects