Pedals

  • Thread starter Deleted member 17730
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Deleted member 17730

  • Deleted member 17730

Hi,

I've been looking around for pedal upgrades for the G27 wheel and have come across many options but I don't know what would be recommended and I don't have the money to buy all of them and try to them out so I am looking for some help.

I am wondering out of the list below, which would be the best bet (bang for the buck) and still give a realistic feel.

1. AP Electrix
2. Nixim brake mod
3. Perfect Pedal
4. PTR brake mod
5. ARC brake mod
6. CST pedals
7. Fanatec Clubsport pedals
8. Sim-Sport Pedals

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

-Geran
 
Load cells work on pressure, so most of the pedal travel won't amount to much pressure on the cell, but the final bit is going to be where all the stopping power is at and that is where the feel of the load cell is nice. If you have ever driven a real car, you know that the pedal gets stiffer as the brakes are applied more, up to the point where the wheels lock and the pedal is the stiffest. This is how a load cell feels for the most part.

For this reason a lot of drivers feel that the load cell is the best way to go for sim racing as you are going to be using muscle memory instead of motion memory. Muscle memory is more reliable and more accurate when it comes to braking on the verge of locking the brakes. and is very helpful when it comes to trail-braking.
 
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And how would you compare load cell with hydraulic pedals? At the moment, I have G25 pedals with a Nixim mod, but I am going to build my own pedal set in the future. I wanted to build a hydraulic pedal set to make it as close to real car as possible. How does it compare to common load cell brakes?
 
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I also have CSP and brake pedal really needs to be set in the second hole. The new version V2 will be set like this by default. The problem is lot of people don't know this. But the problem is, you need shorter metal cylinder - 24mm instead of the original 27mm. Then it feels fine. I made mine from a 12mm metal bar and I tried 23mm also, but it didn't feel good. DIY, no need for buying tuning kit. You get very stiff pedal with very short pedal action with the original 27mm one.
 
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If you want your pedal to feel as real as possible, then a hydraulic system would definitely be the best option, but there are cons to this approach. The first con is going to be that you are going to end up with leaks eventually and that can be messy in a house, especially on carpet. Another con is that in order to get true feelings from hydraulics, you need to basically setup a system that uses pistons, and any moisture in the system will cause them to not work very well, so unless you have a closed system you are looking at having to do maintenance quite often. Load cells for sim racing are also probably the less expensive setup of the 2.

To be honest though, the load cell has it's issues as well, for instance if you apply too much pressure to the cell and it isn't rated for it, you could break the load cell. You also need to make sure that all the mounting hardware is of good quality and everything is always tightly fastened. Finally you have to run through a calibration utility to set up the pedals with a load cell, though you will likely have to do the same with a hydraulic setup as well.

In the end, I like the load cell better mainly due to simplicity.
 
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I agree, hydraulic system has it's drawbacks. The constant re-pressurizing, the loss of pressure during a long race (ok, mine is far from ideal..). Haven't got any leakage apart from first tests (it's a quite a pop when hoses detach.. and scary when all your powercables lie in the vicinity.) The feel is very nice thou, it has such a different feel than springs. And one very big feat is the amount of pressure is adjustable..
 
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Ive got the "Perfect Pedal" Mod for the G25/G27 and its great, it can be adjusted to suit how firm u like it, and is fairly easy to install.
Its a bit expensive but if uve got cash to burn and your using a G25/G27 pedal set anyway its a great addition to your rig.
and i will add that the seller/manufacturer will back there product and help u get any problems with it fixed ASAP as i had a problem when i recieved it where it was leaking and they quickly sent a replacment seal and all the nesacary tools and instructions to fix it.
another mod ive done is to double the spring tension on the accelerator pedal, as the stock spring was a bit light.
So i added another spring that felt about the same but with a smaller diameter to fit inside the original spring.
 
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Why not switch the old brake spring to the clutch and the old clutch to the accelerator pedal?
Thats what ill do when i get a G25 pedal set with bodnar cable and perfect pedal mod off a mate soon.
 
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Why not switch the old brake spring to the clutch and the old clutch to the accelerator pedal?
Thats what ill do when i get a G25 pedal set with bodnar cable and perfect pedal mod off a mate soon.

I think the clutch spring is too stiff for the throttle as you need the finest regulation possible.
If you want your pedal to feel as real as possible, then a hydraulic system would definitely be the best option, but there are cons to this approach. The first con is going to be that you are going to end up with leaks eventually and that can be messy in a house, especially on carpet. Another con is that in order to get true feelings from hydraulics, you need to basically setup a system that uses pistons, and any moisture in the system will cause them to not work very well, so unless you have a closed system you are looking at having to do maintenance quite often. Load cells for sim racing are also probably the less expensive setup of the 2.

To be honest though, the load cell has it's issues as well, for instance if you apply too much pressure to the cell and it isn't rated for it, you could break the load cell. You also need to make sure that all the mounting hardware is of good quality and everything is always tightly fastened. Finally you have to run through a calibration utility to set up the pedals with a load cell, though you will likely have to do the same with a hydraulic setup as well.

In the end, I like the load cell better mainly due to simplicity.

Thank you for the info. I am willing to do more maintenance just for the sake of realism.
 
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Why not switch the old brake spring to the clutch and the old clutch to the accelerator pedal?
Thats what ill do when i get a G25 pedal set with bodnar cable and perfect pedal mod off a mate soon.
I think the clutch spring is too stiff for the throttle as you need the finest regulation possible.
Thats why^^^^
that and i like the feel of the clutch the way it is.
Im sure everyone has there own prefrences.
 
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Going from G25 (they were pretty worn out) with a foam mod for the brakes to CSP's my lap times dropped noticeably almost overnight. It made a difference big time. Too bad those pedals were so poorly made and Fanatec wouldn't replace them when they had so many problems.

I went from those CSP's to the stock pedals that came with my T500 RS. I was dubious going from a pressure based load cell brake to a position based HEART system. I have increased the throw of all the pedals (I still like the increased throw of the CSP gas pedal better) and use the included brake stiffness mod and these pedals are just as good as the CSP's. They are MUCH more reliable (I lost several races due to the CSP's being unreliable) they work right every time, I can brake predictably and modulate the brakes for threshold braking. The brake with these T500 pedals is actually better than it was with the CSP's. IMO the quality of the pedals' make is more important than a load cell.
 
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