Over sensitive brakes.

[Msportdan]

is there a way to fix the over sensitive brakes. I really have to be so careful on the brake pedal to not lock up, it feels a little bit too sensitive, than my other sims.

 

[xnorb]

In one of the Ferraris i lock up even when only applying like 30% brake from top speed.
It's really an absolute necessity to bring brake pressure in.

There's no "Set to not-lock-up and keep it" setting anyways.

 

[Marian Zelenka]

Yes, and there is no magic calibration. It's a problem for no ABS assisted cars, even on Clubsport pedals and you just can't use the full pedal travel. It's just impossible to modulate brakes. And steering wheel is rattling like crazy then...

 

[Matheus Machado]

I can reach 100% brake travel on the g27, but only for a limited amount of time. Try changing the brake balance more to the rear and adding a slight negative front toe in the setup.

 

[xnorb]

Changing brake balance and toe isn't the same as changing brake pressure.

 

[Matheus Machado]

Changing brake balance and toe isn't the same as changing brake pressure.

I know, but this will give the optimal brake performance.
I almost never lock up the brakes, it's a matter of applying the brake modulation properly (more speed=more travel) and being smooth taking the pressure off the brakes, using a constant motion.

And I can achieve that using only 70% of my pedal travel as my g27 pedals spike a lot. (I've already cleaned them, worked until the 6th time I did it, but now, they are pretty worn out)

 

[Jempy]

When G27 brake pedal locks too early ... there remains another solution, which really works but needs regular changes when you change from one car to another one.

In Logitech Profiler, click on brakes ... go to the curser setting the range.
As default on 100% .. make it lower and find the good balance in game ... so that brakes only lock up at nearly the end of the travel if you wish to use the full travel of the brake pedal.
That way you'll have more pedal travel before locking up and will be able to modulate easier your braking.

I tried it and it is working.
The only trouble is .... having to change this range regularly according to the chosen car.

NB: GTEye or Nixim mods are best of course if not too much money to spend for a loadcell.

 

[Denis Betty]

And I can achieve that using only 70% of my pedal travel as my g27 pedals spike a lot. (I've already cleaned them, worked until the 6th time I did it, but now, they are pretty worn out)

I've not tried these myself, but I checked and they are currently available.
http://simulaje.blogspot.com.es/2013/12/hall-sensor-jz-for-g25g27-hall-sensor.html

 

[Mark Saunders]

Not sure if it helps as I mostly only race in the faster open wheelers but I have my braking linearity or whatever it is, set so it's a straight line as I hate weird braking behaviour. Most open wheelers at least, you can get away with (once up to temperature) slamming the brakes on and lifting as you get into lower gears. If you find you've gone too far into a corner, pump the brake pedal to curve the braking zone and ensure you don't go off the track. I'm not actively racing at the moment so have no videos to showcase it but youtube has everything...

I seriously would not recommend weird braking set-ups by messing with anything other than absolute linearity as it'll just give you bad habits. Even something like the Formula Abarth which is extremely sensitive, I find it a lot easier to get used to when I know there's a linear braking input instead of 20-30% actually being 2% difference whilst 80-85% is a 10% input difference.

I'm sure someone who actually races in real life can correct me if I'm wrong but I'm sure the ideal brake setup should be so that 100% input is too much for the car, allowing you more control over not just the pressure you put in but how you apply it, giving you more input into how the car is going to behave in a braking zone. If you hit 100% brakes and are able to hold it for more than a brief period of time then your brakes aren't good enough or the bias is set incorrectly and you will be slow. Of course this only counts for racing cars; any actual road cars would be set-up so ABS would account for your 100% brakes and be more forgiving with a gradual input if it's turned off... after all, road cars want to keep you safe above absolute performance.

 

[JeffL]

Road cars with abs turned off will lock up easily, Brake pressure is for individual braking styles, since consistency is the most important virtue. Hence pressure, even in the old calipered brakes (hydrualic or mechanical) you could adjust spring tension. to balance you braking. That is why brake pressure is there.

 

[Matheus Machado]

I seriously would not recommend weird braking set-ups by messing with anything other than absolute linearity as it'll just give you bad habits. Even something like the Formula Abarth which is extremely sensitive, I find it a lot easier to get used to when I know there's a linear braking input instead of 20-30%

I'm wrong but I'm sure the ideal brake setup should be so that 100% input is too much for the car, allowing you more control over not just the pressure you put in but how you apply it

You got it absolutely spot on in these two senteces. A friend races in the european F3 and he said just that. Also, brakes in race cars are so much heavier than a standard or modded g27 pedal and they work completely different mechanically wise. It's how much force you apply into the brakes, not travel. The only thing that can get close to a race car setup is the H-engeneering pedals and the maybe the clubsport V3. But there are lots of fast people in g27 pedals and I can assure I don't lock up my pedals a lot, just when I KNOW I made a huge mistake.

 

[Matheus Machado]

Road cars with abs turned off will lock up easily, Brake pressure is for individual braking styles, since consistency is the most important virtue. Hence pressure, even in the old calipered brakes (hydrualic or mechanical) you could adjust spring tension. to balance you braking. That is why brake pressure is there.

So, how you can do that REALISTICALLY in a g27 without changing your springs every time? There is a linearity setting to allow the pedal more travel until the brakes are in their full force.

 

[JeffL]

That's the point of brake pressure in the sim; your pedal has fixed linearity so the brake pressure allows you to adjust to tendencies. If you only drive AC then you will adapt. In other sims you can adjust. I'm someone that races several different sims and I can adapt pretty easily not so much in AC. Just my personal thing and something that's pretty common.

 

[Denis Betty]

Same for me Jeff. If I'm locking up too often I just drop the pressure a bit. So long as I feel I'm getting close to optimum braking at the fastest braking point on the track, I get the feeling of being in full control more of the time. Personal preference I'm sure. I guess you should just go with whatever (consistently) gives the fastet lap times. If there is no option to adjust it though...

 

[Metzger82]

Just leave the pedals as they are and practice, soon you will get used to it and wont lock the brakes at all. As much as you try to change things the more you will be confused. If you do not get loadcell whatever you do you will never feel something natural and will need to adopt it. Brake presure wont help you you cant just set it to 100% just before lock. Locking depends on speed, grip, temp etc etc... you dont brake only on stright line also, you just need practice brake control not to mess with the pedals.

 

[Chris]

I don't really get it. I understand that not having brake pressure is not ideal, but hopefully it's coming in the not too distant future.

In the meantime, set your brake gamma to 1.0 and learn to threshold brake. It's not too hard in most race cars, as Assetto provides excellent FFB on tyre locking so you can tell when you're on the limit of grip very quickly.

As for hyper-sensitive pedals that the OP is talking about, I have no clue what's going on there. All I can say is make sure you're gamma is set to 1.0 and that your pedals are fully calibrated. I that doesn't work then you might want to report it as a physics issue on the official forums.

 

[JeffL]

So it's silly that we are discussing brake pressure in a sim?

 

[Metzger82]

It is not silly it is just not that kills your brake feeling. The pedals are the ones, if you do not have loadcell brake presure wont help you very much. This is what we are discussing. You know you want brake PRESURE setting when you dont have pedals that wokrs with pressure so it is useless.

 

[JeffL]

Your confusing inputs and simulated braking on car.

 

[Metzger82]

Nope I dont, I cant explain but check what brake pressure irl does. You cant set it to not lock the brakes you can make the pedal ligher or use less or more pressure on the pedal to lock them but here you dont have pressure at all you do is messing with the travel which is the same as messing with the callibration.

 

[Pär Öqvist]

You don´t need loadcell to simulate progressively harder brake pressure. AC is a bit oddly hardcore at times. They have an auto clutch aid that does absolutely nothing. And they demand every simmer have pedals able to output the brake pressure needed for the real thing .

I do have the HE Sim Ultimates so I can adjust easilly so I can get hard on the brakes. It´s litterary a cheat in some cars compared those that run clubsports which have loadcell but can´t simulate the brake pressure .

First they must fix the auto clutch issue so I can use H-shifter without a clutch please . Then they can add unrealistic brake pressure adjustments also lol