New to rFactor 2

Chris

Premium
Hey guys!

My name's Chris and some of you may know me from the Assetto Corsa section of RD. After much fence sitting, I've finally taken the plunge into ISI territory and am looking to learn the ropes of rF2 (as there's a lot to it!) if some of you would be so gracious as to help me out? :) Yes, I still love Assetto Corsa and will still be organising weekly club races with it, however I thought I'd broaden my horizons and get stuck into some serious endurance racing (something that is not currently possible in AC) in rF2.

I've got the game mostly sorted, however there are a couple of areas that still confuse me...

Firstly, is there a way to increase the strength of the FFB coming through the wheel? Out of the box the FFB feels good, however a tad light. Is there a way to increase the strength of the FFB? I'm using a Thrustmaster T300 btw.

Secondly, what are some of the mods that you would recommend that I get? I see the Enduracers Porsche mod has been released so I've gotten that. I know the modding side of rF2 is vast in size, but if I could have a list of the best cars and tracks to get, that would be great :)

Finally, as the RDLMS will be taking place later on in 2016, I am looking to get an all-Australian team together to hopefully take it to the Northern Hemisphere chaps :p If you're interested (and Australian of course) then drop me a message :)

Looking forward to seeing you on track, and thanks in advance for helping out an ISI newb :)


Cheers and Merry Christmas!
 
Ithink it means theres a "mod" that has the track\car listed, mods are the tiny files you DL mostly for MP servers, sort mods in launcher by type and go through the "mods" and see.
I see. Yes, when the track was selected, it showed a window with all the mods using it. But does this also mean that the track is already installed, even if I don't have the .rfcmp file? And if I want to uninstall it, I should uninstall 'all' the mods using it?
 
By definition, if your front wheels are locked, then they're sliding and the grip is zero, so there wouldn't be any forces on the steering rack until you regain traction.
Agree, fundamentally the co-efficient of adhesion is greater than the co-efficient of friction so there are more forces at the steering rack when there is grip.

disagree u couldnt of Locked up in real life. U get a shudder thru the wheel in both road cars and open wheelers l not massive but enough

The shudder you feel could possibly be ABS kicking in I dont know. But IRL when your front tyres lose grip of the road the forces are dramatically reduced. Maybe its the rubber occassional grabbing and letting go but the fact remains that in total there is far less transfer of forces through the tyres to the steering rack. So to model this a great reduction in FFB forces is very appropriate.

If anyone here is arguing that there should be more forces when your wheels are sliding than when gripping they wont get agreement here.
If anyone is arguing that it's agreed that the forces should be significantly less than when there is grip but in RF2 its "too significantly less" really, come on let's not be pedantic.

This thread was started to help someone with RF2. If you have a sim that you like better or that you have become really used to in the way it deals with FFB thats fine. But what's the point of coming in here and saying this or that is bad in RF2?

Edit: If you run a logitech and have smoothing turned up you will also be missing the high frequency feedback that occurs just at the limits that signals an impending loss of grip. maybe that's why when it goes light it feels sudden or canned.
 
im not here to blow sunshine up Rf2 a$$, im just saying rf2 isnt perfect it has flaws... some people dont like to admit them.

I will stand by my aligning torque issue as it do feel its the sim, not portraying forces correctly at given speed - maybe yes it is a tin-top problem with weight or something?! - its not so bad in the new ISIf1 car. The brake ffb it could be better in rf2, i noticed theres no ffb under slip/slide as well. Im not saying it should be stronger than under grip but there should be some ffb not just none/flat/dead/numb.

happy new year stay safe.
 
I think we drifted (pun intended :p) a bit off topic and actually it was me who brought the braking/locking feel because i am also new to Rf2 so don't see a point in starting a new thread but would love to hear an advice if there is a way to imrpove that through some settings.
I am not saying that locked wheels should send more ffb through the wheel but what I mean is, if i lock wheels irl i do feel it (in general when the tires are locked u can feel they are locked, you can simply tell) that feel i am completely missing when tires are locked in rf2 they might as well not being locked at all - no difference at all. This makes it very hard for me to do threshhold braking and to know where is the limit. I can tell i have locked after the fact when the flatspots' vibrations make my eyeballs to fall off.
So is there a way to improve that feel? :)

Cheers
 
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This thread was started to help someone with RF2. If you have a sim that you like better or that you have become really used to in the way it deals with FFB thats fine. But what's the point of coming in here and saying this or that is bad in RF2?

That's why I was asking questions, I'm new to rF2 and there are some things that don't feel quite right to me so I'm trying to figure out how to correct them because the three FFB settings we're given don't seem to be making the changes I want/expect. Just because I have an opinion that something doesn't feel quite right doesn't mean I'm ragging on rF2 or saying some other sim is better, it means I'm trying to figure out if I can do something to change it or if that's just the way it is. No sim is perfect, all of them require compromises and I'm just trying to learn which compromises rF2 requires.

This whole "my sim is the best and all others suck" attitude is ridiculous and a waste of time.
 
I think we drifted (pun intended :p) a bit off topic and actually it was me who brought the braking/locking feel because i am also new to Rf2 so don't see a point in starting a new thread but would love to hear an advice if there is a way to imrpove that through some settings.
I am not saying that locked wheels should send more ffb through the wheel but what I mean is, if i lock wheels irl i do feel it (in general when the tires are locked u can feel they are locked, you can simply tell) that feel i am completely missing when tires are locked in rf2 they might as well not being locked at all - no difference at all. This makes it very hard for me to do threshhold braking and to know where is the limit. I can tell i have locked after the fact when the flatspots' vibrations make my eyeballs to fall off.
So is there a way to improve that feel? :)

Cheers
I can't agree more... anyone know how to get some FFB for brakes' locking? More to that, found a couple of mods too in AC that show which tires lock. :)
 
i am completely missing when tires are locked in rf2 they might as well not being locked at all - no difference at all. This makes it very hard for me to do threshhold braking and to know where is the limit
I'm definitely getting a good feeling of tyres that lock (in cars with CPM). I did my first laps in the F ISI and it was a strong feeling rear locking or front locking (confirmed with the tyre temps in the car status HUD) so maybe its a wheel or wheel settings thing?
 
...so maybe its a wheel or wheel settings thing?

I think that's where some of the confusion comes in, it seems most of the wheel settings are buried in a text file and it's a bit of a mystery as to what they do or how we should adjust them. I saw a lot of settings in there that look interesting but I'm hesitant to adjust them without knowing what they do. Is there a resource somewhere that explains what all those settings do and how best to adjust them? I don't get the impression that the three settings we have in the game menu (ffb multiplier, smoothing, min force) would do much to increase the feeling of locked brakes (maybe min force).

Out of curiosity, what wheel do you use?
 
I'm definitely getting a good feeling of tyres that lock (in cars with CPM). I did my first laps in the F ISI and it was a strong feeling rear locking or front locking (confirmed with the tyre temps in the car status HUD) so maybe its a wheel or wheel settings thing?

This is exactly the advice I'm seeking... if there is a setting I can adjust to improve it I'd gladly do so. I was testing ISI cars as well (one of the reason I was asking for the list of cars with CPM in another thread) but pretty much the only one I could feel (as well as see obviously) was the Formula ISI that just got updated. In fact, I think it is the best open wheeler I have ever driven in any sim :)
 
I don't know of a setting for the FFB, but putting HUD to the tire temp display will immediately show hot tires when you lock a tire.

For me, absence of steering force indicates front lockup and instability in the rear indicates rear lockup. Practice with the HUD and you'll learn what it feels like.
 
Its new years day here in NZ raining like crazy, being a working class hoon, that loves to destroy cars and p*** off neighbors,decided to run little test for ya's (any excuse will do to hoon)

A little hungover, I've literally been out just this sec, car park across road, empty, water logged, My work hack, a 3liter nissan Maxima (motor is no slouch), I can 100 percent confirm ( i knew before going out as hit this car park almost everyday coming back from work) that as soon as wheels lock up steering goes limp, to the point I can do a full rotation within seconds, it is very clear and obvious, like whats been said already, any "judders" will be either ABS kicking in,and or grip coming back momentarily,Ive seen one person on this site giver rf2 completely up after 30 mins (not this thread) because they expected to have forces in same circumstances,crazy, Im sorry you guys are wrong.

Also if going off road and steering wheel kicks violently, that would be the tyres digging into ground adn being forced turned,nothing to do with grip, if that happens more than likely you'd have broken the steering or at least misalignment leading to race over for you.
 
I still disagree about the off-road. Having owned 4x4 trucks, Subaru's, participating in two RallyX events, and living in one of the redneck capitals of the world, I've done plenty of off-road driving. The imperfections in the surface, the bumps, grooves, and ruts are constantly jerking your wheel back and forth and it can literally be a handful just to keep control. In rF2 it's not like that at all, instead it's like you've just driven onto an air hockey table.

I'm not complaining about it, but if it's something I can change by adjusting a setting I'd like to do that. If not then I'll just live with it.
 
I still disagree about the off-road. Having owned 4x4 trucks, Subaru's, participating in two RallyX events, and living in one of the redneck capitals of the world, I've done plenty of off-road driving. The imperfections in the surface, the bumps, grooves, and ruts are constantly jerking your wheel back and forth and it can literally be a handful just to keep control. In rF2 it's not like that at all, instead it's like you've just driven onto an air hockey table.

I'm not complaining about it, but if it's something I can change by adjusting a setting I'd like to do that. If not then I'll just live with it.

This would be down to the track makers. All offroad stuff I've tried has been packed gravel converted from rF1 or similar. The resolution of the road mesh is poor and even if enhanced, it's still going to be poor unless the author goes into explicit detail.

You can experience the exact sensation you describe on tarmac in the Historic cars going flat chat down Masta straight.
 
I still disagree about the off-road. Having owned 4x4 trucks, Subaru's, participating in two RallyX events, and living in one of the redneck capitals of the world, I've done plenty of off-road driving. The imperfections in the surface, the bumps, grooves, and ruts are constantly jerking your wheel back and forth and it can literally be a handful just to keep control. In rF2 it's not like that at all, instead it's like you've just driven onto an air hockey table.

I'm not complaining about it, but if it's something I can change by adjusting a setting I'd like to do that. If not then I'll just live with it.
have you ever gone off-road in a full spec racecar it a lot stiffer than a rally car or jeep;)
 
I'm definitely getting a good feeling of tyres that lock (in cars with CPM). I did my first laps in the F ISI and it was a strong feeling rear locking or front locking (confirmed with the tyre temps in the car status HUD) so maybe its a wheel or wheel settings thing?
Got my curiosity, especially the distinction between rear and front locking, I'd like to try. Is this the ISI F3.5 or Masters? At what track?

PS. Just saw the later posts, thanks @Emery and @Hash_V8 for those insights.
 
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Out of curiosity, what wheel do you use?
Fanatec CSWV2/Formula Rim.
This is my controller settings. The one that goes in the controllers folder.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/a6sb0lyxd9oratp/FSR_July_2015A.JSON?dl=0
I run the FISI with about 15 deg lock in garage menu, 480 deg in wheel menu.

Other notes:
Most players I know have not tinkered with the many settings in the main controller JSON. All I re-set were the kerb and collision effects. I really dont think that its expected or required (as for exampls in PCARS, ducks head!). If you do go making changes there keep a copy of the original file.
Make sure you are not getting clipping. There is a plugin that will show you.
Make sure that the correct maximum torque of your wheel is correct in the controller JSON. CSWV2 is 7nm.
Ensure you have some rubber down and that you get some heat into your tyres. These two factors have a big impact on the grip and hence FFB.
Maybe increase Caster a little too.

I also stongly recommend Realheadmotion plugin.

One more tip. Sometimes when windows updates on your PC the 3 JSON files (player, mutiplayer and controller) will be wiped. You will know this has happened as on startup it will say "unsupported file type JSON". To avoid this headache make a copy of your JSON files and put them on a stick or at least in a totally separate folder in my documents.
 
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