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My sequential shifter project for Fanatec GT3 wheel

Discussion in 'Sim Racing Hardware' started by Marian Zelenka, Feb 19, 2012.

  1. Marian Zelenka

    Marian Zelenka
    The downforce is strong with this one. Premium Member

    Update (30. 07. 2013):

    [​IMG]

    I made it shorter and I'm working on a different clamp. I will have new table so I have to rebuild it a bit. I also used "washers" from transparent film to eliminate accidental squeeking and don't have to use any grease now.

    [​IMG]

    Old version now:

    [​IMG]

    This is my sequential shifter I finished this week. It was an interesting project and I use it with Fanatec GT3 RS wheel.

    You could say, by the look of it, it's another Frex Shifter+ clone. And you are right... Yes, I could buy Frex Shifter+, but wanted something longer and closer to my table.

    I have various aluminium sheets to work with, so I didn't have to buy them. The clamping mechanism is made from a heatsink. Unfortunately, it's a bit soft and it bent a little when I tried it for the first time. Now I use it with anti slip pad and it works OK for now.. However, I'd like to replace the clamping mechanism with something better in the future.

    I still have a minor issue with the central pivot that has bigger holes drilled in those big nuts that I use as bushings. I put there graphite vaseline (good stuff) because it was squeeking a bit after a while. I'll have to buy a drill with smaller diameter and make new bushings. It works good, although I sometimes feel how it moves a bit.

    Gear knob is bought from eBay. Not very good but cheap. I'd like some Delrin hardbar and that isn't cheap, unfortunately...

    I wanted to use just simple on-off-on switch as you can see on Frex shifter. I wasn't satisfied with it and it was too loud, so I bought two micro switches instead. The downside is, it allows "cheating" when shifting. At least, if you want to. The lever returns to the central position when you don't grip it too hard so it's acceptable. But you can still miss shift when shifting with this solution.

    The lever is 28 cm long (from central pivot) and travels 2,5 to 4 cm. So you need to move it at least 2,5 cm for the switch to make a click. You don't feel it, but hear it a bit instead even through headphones. The lever isn't easy to push/pull but it's not hard either. It feels good even without any mechanical feedback or stopper.

    I damaged a few bolts in the progress as I wanted to make some pivots. And bought quite a lot springs to work with. None of them worked for me because they were soft and I came across a real automotive parts, springs in repair kit for rear drum brakes for VW, Seat and Skoda. These worked well, fortunately, because I wanted to stop working on this project.

    I had no idea if this project would work, so I'm satisfied with the result. And also addicted. It's in the perfect position when I reach for the lever.

    Now, the "dark" side of any DIY project - the price. It cost me 70€ which is more than I'd planned. However, the real cost is probably about 50€, because you know how it is, you buy unnecessary bolts, nuts, springs, drills and so on...

    Another Frex clone, but you can take it as an inspiration. I've seen some projects, yet none of them use springs in this configuration.

    Some pics and a short video. Video from action possibly later.

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    Wiring (front side of ps/2 connector is drawn here!):

    [​IMG]



    And this was WIP:

    [​IMG]
     
    • Like Like x 6
  2. Great idea with doubling the springs since your lever is so long. I love the design and simplicity of the Frex, but the price for such simplicity was hard for me. I love my Frex, but building my own like you would be significantly cheaper.
    Have you ever used a Frex to compare the spring rate and the "click" satisfaction the Frex has?
     
  3. well done, hey mind telling me where you get the lever?
     
  4. Marian Zelenka

    Marian Zelenka
    The downforce is strong with this one. Premium Member

    The price could be higher if I was to buy all those aluminium parts. I'd probably buy aluminium profiles and that would increase the price. Or, which is more probably, I would change my mind and wasn't thinking about this project at all. It all depends whether you have some material to work with.

    Unfortunately, I haven't tried Frex yet, but I'd like to. When I tried mini on-off-on switch, it didn't give me much feedback too. The switch didn't want to go back to the central position sometimes. Frex uses some bigger type so the feedback must be different. It's hard to describe the feedback this shifter gives me. It doesn't feel dull, but you feel just the tension of those springs.
     
  5. Marian Zelenka

    Marian Zelenka
    The downforce is strong with this one. Premium Member

    Thanks. I have metal and aluminium sheets and parts from various dissasembled casings from old equipment. The lever was just some crossbar that held internal parts. It had 6 drilled holes. One serves as a pivot point now, two were in the place where I drilled big holes and made other holes accordingly, two are hidden in the gear knob and the last one is at the bottom. So, it was just luck. :)
     
  6. thanks for that , yea was thinking of building one for handbrake
     
  7. Really nice! Great DIY stuff is always a pleasure to see :)
     
  8. Alex Ball

    Alex Ball
    Web Nerd

    How much to re-create and post the parts to the UK?
     
  9. Marian Zelenka

    Marian Zelenka
    The downforce is strong with this one. Premium Member

    Sorry, I don't feel up to doing it again. It was made by hands and I used electric drill only. It was more work than it looks like and I cought a cold in the progress. :) I certainly won't be doing any DIY project for a while.
     
  10. Alex Ball

    Alex Ball
    Web Nerd

    No problem.

    Do you mind if I copy the design?

    I'd love some advice on the wiring side of it -what to connect where, if you're up for it?
     
  11. I think what you did is fantastic and impressive as a DIY. I think if you could add some way to make a definitive "click" for every shift would really improve the feel while racing. If the only tension you have is from the springs alone, to me it would just feel like pulling a drifting e-brake. I'm just saying, a hard "cachunk" is what makes a good shifter feel more race-y (to me atleast). The toggle switch that is on the Frex has a mildly decent click. I always like seeing in GT racing when the driver needs to gives a good hard yank to put it into that next gear. :)
     
  12. Marian Zelenka

    Marian Zelenka
    The downforce is strong with this one. Premium Member

    Maybe it would be possible to improve it. I was thinking about it. Or better, it could be a new project later. :)
     
  13. Marian Zelenka

    Marian Zelenka
    The downforce is strong with this one. Premium Member

    No, you can copy it. No problem.

    I added wiring diagram. ;)
     
  14. Alex Ball

    Alex Ball
    Web Nerd

    PERFECT.

    Thanks mate, you're a star.
     
  15. Hi Marian,
    I would like to congratulate you for your project, i liked so much. And i'm trying copy your job, but i can't undestand one thing... you don't use any drive to recognise the device? you just put the cable ps2 in the PC and worked?
    Please help me...
    Thank you!!!
     
  16. Just awesome, very inspiring!!

    How did you figure out how to construct all of this? Did you have plans to build a Frex shifter for example?
     
  17. Marian Zelenka

    Marian Zelenka
    The downforce is strong with this one. Premium Member

    I just plug it into wheel as the original sq stick, not into pc.

    No, I don't have any frex plans and I just did it on the go. I'm thinking about improving it with some rc damper. I got that idea, but don't know if it will work.
     
  18. Devil_Dog

    Devil_Dog
    I walk the line.

    I'll let you know. I'm working on one now. Just waiting for these damn bolts to arrive so I can firmly test.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  19. Hi Marian,
    I understand this is an old thread but I'm trying to copy this design also. Is it possible you could tell me some of the measurements of the shifter so I can adapt it? I'd be interested to know the dimensions of the box (Width, length, height), as well as the distance between the centre of each pivot? (pivot with box and pivot with spring arm). Also it would be useful for me to know roughly the distance the plate has to travel to activate the micro switch each side. This is so I can calculate the throw at the top of my shifter.

    Please see hastily drawn diagram for a better understanding of what I'm after ;)
     

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