Modding a Gigiabyte Aorus GTX 1080 Ti 11 GIG to water cooling/SLI

[Paco572]

Hello I own 2 of these bad boys. To make a long story short, because these cards take up 3 SPACES, the SLI configuration makes one card way too hot, almost no space between them yet there should be at least one space, DAM these 3 space cards, reaching 90C and throttling back, So I modded this first card to a water cooling solution and now it barely gets above 55C under the same loads. I thought about doing the other card but as it turns out I'm going to mod it also, even though it's temps are 70+C or so. Before water cooing both cards reached 90C the top one first with the bottom one in the high 80's then 90's

I will do a video on how to do this, I will test the card using rFactor 2 we'll look at the temp on the other card and the water cooled one then I mod the card the same way I did the first card, then compare. Since these cards are $1000.00 CND each and it only made sense to protect my investment. I look forward to doing this mod and sharing how I do it, here. Just waiting now for some heat sinks from China, then I'll have all the parts I need and I'm ready to go. So stay tuned. Modding cost about $160.00CND for each card. FYI.

Cheers

 

[Paco572]

The second water arrived today, just waiting now for some heat sinks from China

Cheers

 

[Paco572]

I finished my mod today of my second video card. Here's a look see and I'll post the video when I have some spare time. My system is now 100% water cooled and 100% solid state.

PACO

 

[Paco572]

Here are the first pics showing temps in SLI after modding the cards, This was just after a full load test with the cards overclocked by default. Normally the cards would be 90+C
Now 51C, 52C respectively. This is great!!! What a mod, Cut temps by nearly half!!

PACO

 

[Paco572]

Looks like MAX Temp under load actually hit 61C on both, but all previous testing and results were showing the current temp after testing of 90+C meaning both cards were throttling back before adding water cooling. Still 52C and 521C are the temps I watch and base my results on.

Hope this helps.
Cheers

 

[Paco572]

Should have the video done later today.

Cheers

 

[Paco572]

Here's the video, ENJOY!!

Cheers!

 

[Paco572]

For those who are wondering if I missed the boat so to speak on this mod. First of all, the cards in SLI because of the gap being so small and the fact both cards take up 3 spaces, the temps pushed the cards over 90C repeatedly caused my internal temps to also rise. Both of them during testing rFactor 2 DX11 hit 90C which was throttling both cards back. Adding the water cooling not only added separation to the cards but the addition of heat sinks to the chips surrounding the GPU has reduced my overall internal temps by a staggering 20C. Since the separation now between the cards is sufficient now, the chips can and do stay cooler than they did with the stock cooler. Not withstanding the concerns of right side of the card, in which Arctic cooling has not provided decent cooling solutions for this GTX 1080 ti 11 GIG, I opted to use the stock heat-sink which provides superior cooling as the heat sink is molded and fits precisely over all the chips on the right side of the card, something Arctic wouldn't even come close to doing so, that being said, I felt it was an important step to keep the stock cooler on that side since it fit perfectly and attach a fan to it just like the Arctic would do with their own heat-sink. This was planned out intentionally ahead of time. The goal was to reduce the over all temps of both cards, at their default stock overclock temps, "not to mod the cards for the sole purpose of overclocking them beyond the default OC settings". This was well thought out and carefully planned mod to address the severe SLI 3 space video card bullshit. Mission accomplished in my opinion.

Cheers.
Hello Ari, sorry you didn't support me.

 

[Jens Roos]

great work and video paco!

I have similar setup but the extreme edition of these cards. Reaching way over 85 on top card where lower card still ok. Going from no issues (temp) with my 1070sli in my mid tower to severe temp issues with these.

First I have replaced casing to an full size and did an mod where i placed an water cooler on the backplate of the top card wich is bigger on the extreme cards and custom fan curves.

This had the temps stay around the 80-83 range at the highest. But still being on edge i have now replace my motherboard to have 80mm spacing (4 slot) and this also have 2x16 instead of 2x8 pci slots (that most mb cards have in sli)

But with the new mb my backplate cooling did not fit anymore but now there is some space between the cards. After a week of testing, the cooling often stay in the +75 region but have peek at 81 at a few occation.

Removing the backplate cooler change the airflow in the chassie so next is to modify that to see if it improves the overal situation.

with the new 2x16 pci the was an performance increase as well, at 7860x1440 around 118fps average to 154fps using the AC benchmark test as reference (same settingd, mem, cpu etc). rf2 improved as well, but the sli support has room for improvment.

however, your mod looks great and I have looked at the artic cooler kit before but was a bit unsure if they would fit. I'll see how my setup progress but this would for sure be an excellent way to go.

 

[RasmusP]

Really nice thread!
I only have a single 1070 so no need to mod anything but your problem and given solution was very nice and interesting to read.

Great stuff, thank you for sharing!

 

[Paco572]

I just wanted to add, I did some testing of the heat sinks both the small ones and the large one. The large one after a load test I felt the heat sink with my hand. I have good contact, the heat was not excessive meaning, it's doing it intended job. That being said, the fan that come with the arctic cooler is 80MM, 120mm for the pump, so I have on order 2X 2000PRM 100MM-12mm thin fans, link below.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Scythe-SY1012SL12M-2000-RPM-KAZE-JYU-SLIM-100mm-case-fan/332270549771?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

The 100MM new fans will cover a larger area giving better cooling on the large heat sink.

"DON'T BUY THESE 100MM FANS LIST ABOVE THEY ARE ONLY 3 PIN< YOU REQUIRE 4 PIN PWM" see the link below for the correct fans.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Slim-DC-12V...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

I also tested the little heat sinks around the GPU, Although they we hot, not enough to burn my fingers it was hot enough I could place my fingers on them but had to take them off so I conclude the temps are around 120F about the same as hot water. I know these chips can and do get hot up to at least 80C/176F because the "original GPU copper heat sink" would hit 90C, those temps literally cooking the chips around it since the copper heat sink piece on that side is "one" piece. Un-believable, no wonder it over heats. So I added another layer of heat sinks, doubled the height of them, I don't think it was required. This should help. I will test this again to see if this helps cool them a little better in the coming days, just to be on the safe side. If that doesn't do the trick I will add another layer of heat sinks, the ones from china (still not here) and if that doesn't do it, then I'll turn an exhaust fan around on my side door panel and have it blow air in, instead of blowing air out, this will put air directly on those little chips and that should do the trick.

Thanks for all the comments.
Cheers

 

[Paco572]

One more thing, many years ago I installed an alarm on my water pump, inline, so if the pump failed or lost power a buzzer would go off. I searched for hours to locate this device but you can't get it here in North America anymore. Just too dam old. However, I did manage to find it in China, cheap too, like when I bought the first one. Here's the link. No water cooler system should be without it. The only issue which really isn't one is when you power down the buzzer goes off. It lets you know, Hay, I'm still working after 10 years. It's saved me twice in it's lifetime so far. A good investment and peace of mind. Super easy to connect too, just plug it in along your pump power line, like an extension cord.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Fre...ing-wire-pump-stalling-alarm/32814880244.html

I'm happy I've been able to share this.
Cheers

 

[Paco572]

Update: The 100mm fans I ordered are 3 pin so I made a mistake when I need 4 pin PWM fans. I couldn't find any except for some 92MM 4 pin PWM fans I have now ordered from china. The doubling up of the heat sink on the video memory worked better than expected. As you know, I was able to touch them after a load test but couldn't keep my finger there. The doubling up of the heat sinks has solved this. I can now after a full load test put my fingers on the heat sinks and leave them there. It's warm but not hot enough to force me to move my fingers. The additional side panel fan aimed directly toward them also helps.

The Gigabyte 3 space heat sink assembly for the GTX 1080ti is a monster as seen in my video. The right half which I use to cool the right side of the card works very well, I'm able to touch it after load and it's just a little warm so things on that side of the card are doing well, The copper back plate which I also take advantage of I'm able to touch it as well with no issue there. Things bring me to the left side of this heat sink, with the cooper plate that covers the GPU and the video memory. (Intentionally removed by hacking it off)

This single piece of copper "which I have removed" covered the GPU and the 11 memory chips. This is such a poor design it baffles me as to why they would do such a thing. First of all, it just makes the card very heavy, In addition since the GPU can reach and exceed 90C the "WHOLE" plate acts like a "frying pan" heating up the memory chips, the memory chips do the same thing and heat up the GPU. This is what I call a thermal spiral and explains why these cards and other cards of similar design get so hot. The video memory and the GPU need to be cooled independently, this what I've done, My GPU under this SLI configuration, both cards don't exceed GPU temp of 58C under full load, default over clock at 125% power, memory chips 5% OC stay cool to the touch. (The images above show the GPU reached 61 C during load, the addition of the side panel 140MM fan blowing air in instead of out lowered the GPU's temp by 3C "BOTH" and aided in the double stacked heat sinks on the video memory to be able to be touched after a load test without having to remove my fingers during the heat test.)

The addition of the new 92mm (to replace the 80mm fans that came with the water cooling kit) coming and the pump alarms will bring this mod to a close and I'm confident this method is of good design. The fans spin faster and are thinner so the spacing between the cards will be even better, could potentially lower the GPU temps even further, I'll test this once I have all the parts in place. I will post a bunch of pictures showing the final result.

I hope this modification to these types of cards helps those with overheating issues especially under SLI conditions. Over $2000 for these cards demands protection for the investment. Normally there would be a difference between the cards temps, but with my current configuration, there is no discernible difference in temps "at all under load", they're exactly the same.

Any questions, please feel free to ask,
Cheers

 

[Jens Roos]

Great to see it going forward and working well, i'll wait for your pictures since i'm very interested of this mod.
Despite my 80mm spacing on the mb, heating is still and issue and I'm trying different solution for best airflow, it works at best ok. Below 60C is very good during high load.

 

[Paco572]

The fans I bought from China, say it won't get here till Feb, screw that. Here's what I found, and by the way these are a great fan made of high quality materials from Sweden. Also I have some things like 4X 4 pin splitters, 2x 3 pin 100MM x15mm thin fans, 2000RPM for cooling in tight spaces, Let me know I can make these for sale at reduced prices for those thinking of modding their cards. I'll have 2 extra 4 pin PWM fans plus 30 matched memory heat sinks, enough to cover both cards with a single layer of heat sink which might be enough with good side panel cooling. I also have 120mm magnetic filter too in case you want to mod the the side panel. Just let me know if you interested and we'll work something out.

https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAB984BD9379

PACO

 

[Paco572]

My mod project is now complete. Things got off to a rocky start, First of all, the new 4 pin fans have a different header than the one on the video card. Initially I thought, here we go again, bought the wrong stuff, but I invested in a good soldering gun, got some flux and shrink wrap and modded the connectors, spliced the wires, it was easy with the right stuff on hand. Be sure to, if you haven't already done so, get a good soldering gun and not the pen type, the guns heat up in 3 seconds when you pull the trigger and cool just as fast and the pen type take 20 to 30 minutes (some times) and you can burn yourself easily like I did.

I found a small chip on the board not covered by a heat sink, I've pointed this out, I did put a small heat sink on it to be proactive. You can see the fan is bigger covers more of an area and you can see I doubled up the heats sinks on the video memory which works very good as I mentioned before. There are some other smaller chips, but I can confirm these were not in contact with the heat sink and therefore don't require any heat sinks. ""EDIT>>once my heat sinks come from china I will put heat sinks on all the chips just to be proactive, the ones that are covered now are the ones the original heat sink covered, minus the extra one I pointed out.""

The pictures show how I doubled up the heat sinks, Cutting by hand was not the greatest but I have good coverage nonetheless and you can see the small extra heat sink I attached. We see the size difference in fans and speed, 1000 RPM for the smaller black fan and 2000 RPM for the new larger fan. Noctua A-Series NF-A9x14 92mm Blades with AAO Frame, SSO2 Bearing Premium PWM Low-profile Fans. For Reference.

Finally we see the finished mod with the new fan. Both cards were done. In my control panel where I set fan speeds based on GPU temps I have now, since I know what the max temp of the GPU is under load I have adjusted my fans now to spin up to just below max, in this case, 60C@100% fan speed, where my GPU hits about 56C MAX and might go slightly over. In doing so I have the best protection this mod can offer.

Lastly, the reason these types of cards get so hot. As you can see the GPU sits in the middle and the video memory chips surround the GPU, Now the video chips do get hot, that was seen after the first test when I went to put my fingers on the heat sink only to realize I couldn't keep my fingers there. The addition or doubling up of the heat sinks worked excellent. nevertheless these chips under this copper heat sink act like a heating element, one chip heating the next and so on. I call this a thermal spiral. Now add in the GPU on top of it 90C and you now can cook eggs and bacon. It's no wonder these cards over heat and require 2lbs and 3 slots of heat sinks for a card only 1/4 of a inch thick. Extremely poor design in my humble opinion.

Any questions about materials or further how to's, feel free to ask. Cheers and good luck with your modding a GTX 1080ti 11G to water cooling.

CHEERS

 

[Paco572]

Finally got my water pump alarms, these are so cool. If the water pump fails or the power is cut to the water pump, you get an audible sound. There very easy to install too, like an extension cord inline to the water pump power.

As a side note, I've been running my cards at the their default OC settings and I have not seen anything to indicate, power or heat related issues like graphical artifacts or screen tearing or BSOD, or even crashes, which I was getting before with rFactor 2 on occasion, But things are way cooler and "even temperatures" between the cards which amazes me. Fans are spinning up to proper speed as well with the curves I set. So all is good for now. I'll post back if I find anything of concern.

Edit: I just wanted to say the temps on both card remain identical and have not gone over 50C at all, about 48C with the new fans and the side panel fan shooting air in. I finally got my heat sinks from china as well, so I'm going to mod every chip even though these small chips never were "heat sinked" at all by the default heat sink. I'll just remain proactive, after all, a 5 dollar investment on a $2500 investment is worth it I'd say. This is working out better than expected. I remain here to answer questions or help where needed.

CHEERS

PACO572

 

[Paco572]

Great to see it going forward and working well, i'll wait for your pictures since i'm very interested of this mod.
Despite my 80mm spacing on the mb, heating is still and issue and I'm trying different solution for best airflow, it works at best ok. Below 60C is very good during high load.

Getting below 50C on both (Identical) with 10% OC on GPU and MEM which is higher than the default OC. Thought you should know.

CHEERS
1st Officer PACO572

 

[Paco572]

The water cooler alarm didn't work, instead I might have not connected the correct the wires. (I will update this) I have installed the heat sink chips to all the other chips not covered by the original heat sink, just being proactive. All the chips are now covered except those covered by more than a match head.

THX
PACO