F1 2011 Microsoft Official Wheel - Constant Vibration

F1 2011 The Game (Codemasters)
Hi all,

Just wondering whether anyobdy else here has experienced a situation where the wheel gets stuck with a constant vibration. Last night in my Xbox League race I went over one of the kerbs and got the usual vibration on the wheel but this time it just stayed on. I tried turning the wheel off in my pit stop but it wouldn't go off so I just continued on with it and it did eventaully stop of it's own accord 2 laps from the end of the race but I had to race about 20 laps like it which was a real pain.

Another guy in a different division of the same league also had it happen last night.

Any ideas about it and whether there's a way to get rid of it quickly once it's occurred.
 
What's up Karl...didn't realize who ya were lol, me = flatspunout :redface:

Just wanted to note that I have my environmental effects at 0% as well, there's really nothing realistic about it and even at the lowest setting it is violent enough to cause me worry that it's going to shorten the wheel's lifespan. Wheel weight 90%, FFB strength 70%. If I go much higher (lower %) than that the FFB gets really notchy and is even more "unsmooth" than it already is.

Did you get to test whether or not the wheel stays connected with batteries in and the mains unplugged? I've never even put batteries in mine but that would be nice to have as a backup plan...my wheel will get "hung" to the left (constant FFB to the left) and sometimes lose FFB entirely and the only way to fix it is to unplug and plug it back it in, and that sucks hard in the midde of an online race!
 
What's up Karl...didn't realize who ya were lol, me = flatspunout :redface:

Just wanted to note that I have my environmental effects at 0% as well, there's really nothing realistic about it and even at the lowest setting it is violent enough to cause me worry that it's going to shorten the wheel's lifespan. Wheel weight 90%, FFB strength 70%. If I go much higher (lower %) than that the FFB gets really notchy and is even more "unsmooth" than it already is.

Did you get to test whether or not the wheel stays connected with batteries in and the mains unplugged? I've never even put batteries in mine but that would be nice to have as a backup plan...my wheel will get "hung" to the left (constant FFB to the left) and sometimes lose FFB entirely and the only way to fix it is to unplug and plug it back it in, and that sucks hard in the midde of an online race!

Hey Rocky!!!! Small world LOL

Yes, with fresh batteries in the wheel it stays connected. So, for example, last week in the Saturday Night Special race around Turkey i had the wheel vibration happen in the first few laps. I unplugged the main power and the wheel stayed connected. I also felt a little wheel weight resistance while driving, but no FFB and no ENV effects. At my fist stop i disconnected the wheel, re-inserted the power cord, and started it up again. It worked fine for 8 laps then I got the vibration again. I decided to ride it out and see how long it lasted and was surprised when it only lasted 2 laps.

My wheel weight is 50%, FFB 100% and Env 50%
It appears to be the ENV effect that constantly vibrates and if it's set to 0 there is no issue.
 
Have you tried with no battery's in at all? Just feeding from power cable.
Mines still strong as ever, always leave it on standby(green light)

Im the same ben, i don't use the batteries and run it from the power and it seems fine.


As for the issue posted i have had this problem a few times with practicing in GP mode, seems exactly like its stuck on a curb, i have turned the wheel off to no avail. When i returned to garage and come back out with the same tyres and setup it worked fine, obviously this is a mechanical failure in the car/glitch in the game, it's nothing to do with your wheel as so many of us are having the same problem. For you to unplug your wheel and it still be doing the same on track without pitting says to me its a glitch in the game or some sort of suspension failure they added in the last patch as i never experienced it before. I was running a 1-1 on marina bay when this happened, way too low for the curbs which i'm meant to avoid, too much for the car to handle and got a mechanical failure, i dunno it seems weird but its all in the game not your wheel :)
 
Happens to me alot as well, think Im going to have to save up for a Fanatec CSR :)
Great looking wheels but as you will see from our paddock chat Calum they have a number of very frustrating problems as well which for the money they really shouldn't have. Thankfully this issue has happened only a occasionally for me and the last time it stopped after a few laps. Definitely an issue with the last update though and not the wheel itself.
 
Great looking wheels but as you will see from our paddock chat Calum they have a number of very frustrating problems as well which for the money they really shouldn't have. Thankfully this issue has happened only a occasionally for me and the last time it stopped after a few laps. Definitely an issue with the last update though and not the wheel itself.

I know I've seen quite a few people posting about things not working. The problem you have with wheels for the Xbox are that you either buy a relatively cheap non-ffb wheel or you need to go high end with the CSR. There isnt really a middle ground since they stopped making the Microsoft one. Though I seen the new Thrustmaster Ferrari one coming out so I'll see what kind of price range thats in. But I'll probably wait til new year and see if theres a price drop for the CSR.
 
I'm not sure this is related to my original problem of the constant vibration but my down paddle-shift no longer works. Up-shift works but not downshift and I can't drive with auto gears.

Going to put up a post for help fixing it.
 
I'm not sure this is related to my original problem of the constant vibration but my down paddle-shift no longer works. Up-shift works but not downshift and I can't drive with auto gears.

Going to put up a post for help fixing it.

There have been a few posts regarding it in the past Ejike. I have broken 2 up shift paddles before and they are not fun to change, but it is entirely do-able. You just have to be careful as the plastic paddles become a bit brittle with age.
Usually what happens is one of the two mounts will crack or snap off the paddle and that will cause too much movement. The post that should be hitting the button inside the wheel will miss due to the movement and the gear will not shift.

I have tried to crazy glue the paddle back together before but it doesn't work. The glue does not bond properly with the plastic. Another member of the RD league melted his paddle back to working condition with a soldering iron once... not sure how long it lasted.

There is a youtube video that shows how to disassemble your wheel. If you need the link let me know and i'll find it for you.
Also, I have two spare down shift paddles if you would like to buy one to replace yours. Just send me a PM and we can sort the details. The up and down shift paddles are not reversible so I can't see myself having any use for them.

In the mean time, try to reset your downshift to one of the buttons. maybe use the DRS button as that is rarely used in the race (very important in quali though so it's up to you)
You should be able to wiggle your paddle enough to have it make contact with the button inside to reset it. If you can't get it to work then you'll have to disassemble your wheel and depress the button with your finger (which i have done before)
 
There have been a few posts regarding it in the past Ejike. I have broken 2 up shift paddles before and they are not fun to change, but it is entirely do-able. You just have to be careful as the plastic paddles become a bit brittle with age.
Usually what happens is one of the two mounts will crack or snap off the paddle and that will cause too much movement. The post that should be hitting the button inside the wheel will miss due to the movement and the gear will not shift.

I have tried to crazy glue the paddle back together before but it doesn't work. The glue does not bond properly with the plastic. Another member of the RD league melted his paddle back to working condition with a soldering iron once... not sure how long it lasted.

There is a youtube video that shows how to disassemble your wheel. If you need the link let me know and i'll find it for you.
Also, I have two spare down shift paddles if you would like to buy one to replace yours. Just send me a PM and we can sort the details. The up and down shift paddles are not reversible so I can't see myself having any use for them.

In the mean time, try to reset your downshift to one of the buttons. maybe use the DRS button as that is rarely used in the race (very important in quali though so it's up to you)
You should be able to wiggle your paddle enough to have it make contact with the button inside to reset it. If you can't get it to work then you'll have to disassemble your wheel and depress the button with your finger (which i have done before)

Thanks Karl.

I'm going to disassemble first to see if I can see a problem. If there is a problem with the paddle I'll PM you.

I'm having cold turkey now. I haven't driven since July. I put a general post up earlier and someone replied with a good link. I'll paste it into this thread shortly.

Cheers.
 
Just as you explained it Karl, so it was. The mount was on its way out so when I pressed the paddle, it was literally flexing instead of moving and touching the button on the board.

As I went to remove it, it just crumbled. I've seen a few on ebay that are for sale local to me. Gonna see if I can get a good price in the first instance.
 

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