Lotus Exos 125 S1 @ Nürburgring GP

[gnr_tb]

The jittering from the dampers does a specific noise that starts the moment you load the setup in the pits, and it doesn't go away in any speed, so I believe the problem is always there. I also feel like the springs oscillation isn't dampened better with higher settings, it always takes the same time for the car to settle.

Anyways I've been working on a setup for quite a while, did a few laps after each tiny value change to make sure I get everything right, I feel like the car is very balanced now and you can even drift through the slow corners with 15% throttle if you practice, I think it has good potential for a record.
Don't be alarmed by rarely bottoming-out every few laps! It happens only in the front and never happens in corners, to prevent that you need at least 5mm more in front and 8 in rear, don't try slight changes in front, you will spin in the Schumacher S curve if you will mess with this (and go flat out).
Feel free to mess with brake balance though, as I use ABS and don't use much trail-braking, so maybe there's a better value (it's also a preference).

 

[jerry090460]

thanks

 

[Pawel Ziolkowski]

The jittering from the dampers does a specific noise that starts the moment you load the setup in the pits, and it doesn't go away in any speed, so I believe the problem is always there. I also feel like the springs oscillation isn't dampened better with higher settings, it always takes the same time for the car to settle.

Anyways I've been working on a setup for quite a while, did a few laps after each tiny value change to make sure I get everything right, I feel like the car is very balanced now and you can even drift through the slow corners with 15% throttle if you practice, I think it has good potential for a record.
Don't be alarmed by rarely bottoming-out every few laps! It happens only in the front and never happens in corners, to prevent that you need at least 5mm more in front and 8 in rear, don't try slight changes in front, you will spin in the Schumacher S curve if you will mess with this (and go flat out).
Feel free to mess with brake balance though, as I use ABS and don't use much trail-braking, so maybe there's a better value (it's also a preference).

I don't feel any of the jitteryness you mention both on all 0 dampers and all maxed (including your setup). I do have G27 with lowered FFB rate to 111hz (that cures most of the rattle related stuff on G27 at non zero kerb and road effects). I think i know what kind of jittering you are experiencing and its already possible to get it on Tatuus, and GT's. I guess it only affects some users and its more of a game-wheel compatibility issue rather than physics issue with Lotus.

Tried your setup, and the 0 dampers work quite well although it feels like it lacks grip a little. In slow turns my ghost just drives away even when i'm on the same line at the grip limit.

For better comparison i used my setup (since i can drive it consistently) both on "all 0" and maxed dampers, both very drivable but, after ~8laps of 0dampers pb was around 1:38, reseting dampers to normal values immediately gave me almost a second. So 0 dampers definitely isn't the best option here.

And as for settling the car it really depends on the bump, for example Nurbs last chicane max dampers settle the car super fast but since 0 dampers give much smoother ride through the bumps, it feels like the car settles faster with them. Everything is a trade-off in the setup land.

 

[Dux]

Fastest lap 1.34.9, madness

 

[Qazdar Karim]

Fastest lap 1.34.9, madness

I'm really interested in the telemetry of that lap

 

[Dux]

I'm really interested in the telemetry of that lap

It's not mine, it's from Morgan Morand i think it was, i saw it via RSR LiveTiming

With the setup above i did now 1:37.6 and i am making a video in the moment
But 1:34.9 i am wondering what wonder of setup that must be ...
The car is soooo hard to drive. A little more steer and i am out, less i am out cause not being able to turn on time, right on the edge! It has something to do with my steering wheel. How i did this lap i had no idea. I was driving no 40 laps and i couldnt get below 1:38.0 and i pressed restart went on another one or two laps and there it was, 1:37.6 enough for 48th position on RSR table

 

[Qazdar Karim]

It's not mine, it's from Morgan Morand i think it was, i saw it via RSR LiveTiming

With the setup above i did now 1:37.6 and i am making a video in the moment
But 1:34.9 i am wondering what wonder of setup that must be ...
The car is soooo hard to drive. A little more steer and i am out, less i am out cause not being able to turn on time, right on the edge! It has something to do with my steering wheel. How i did this lap i had no idea. I was driving no 40 laps and i couldnt get below 1:38.0 and i pressed restart went on another one or two laps and there it was, 1:37.6 enough for 48th position on RSR table

By the way ,and since no one has mentioned it yet, don't forget to do some laps first and wait for the track to eat rubber a bit ! use only back to pits ! it really improves the grip !

 

[Dux]

Here is my lap <mod edit: in the media section please>

 

[Dan ONeill]

I'm having trouble with the entry over steer with this car, I've tried adjusting the diff so that I can still turn in (somewhere around 60% coast) and zeroing out all the toe settings to rule that out but I still end up turning in too fast.
I've adjusted my wheel back to 900 degrees and matched in game, the V. wheel is exactly as my real wheel is.
Just seems that I cant dial out the aggressive turn in.
Tried softening the rear by lowering TPs and ARB and springs, any suggestions?

Cheers

 

[Qazdar Karim]

Have you tried the alignement settings ? toe and camber ?

 

[Dan ONeill]

Yeah zeroed the toe all round and tried camber around the 3 setting +/- 0.5.
I did have the TPs low, around 9 PSI rear and 10-11 front

 

[Dan ONeill]

I tried @Austin Ogonoski setup and this definitely felt better, dont like the gear ratio though, I improved by a couple of tenths.
I was using 20 front wing and 20 rear, the problems were in the medium to slow corners though. Now I just need the slow cornering of this setup and the fast of mine...

 

[Leonardo Chaves]

Yeah zeroed the toe all round and tried camber around the 3 setting +/- 0.5.
I did have the TPs low, around 9 PSI rear and 10-11 front

Positive Toe at the rear helps stability, you shouldn't have done that.

Look at the dynamic setting so it's 0.4 and it should be plenty stable.

 

[Pawel Ziolkowski]

I'm having trouble with the entry over steer with this car, I've tried adjusting the diff so that I can still turn in (somewhere around 60% coast) and zeroing out all the toe settings to rule that out but I still end up turning in too fast.
I've adjusted my wheel back to 900 degrees and matched in game, the V. wheel is exactly as my real wheel is.
Just seems that I cant dial out the aggressive turn in.
Tried softening the rear by lowering TPs and ARB and springs, any suggestions?

Cheers

Since diff also affects mid corner balance i would focus more on dampers, they can really do wonders to entry/exit transitions.
In general less rear rebound/ more front bump will give good results in taming entry oversteer. (try with 0 rebound damping at rear)
It's also possible that you are hitting bumpstops at the rear, this can unsettle the rear quite a bit. Lower rear packer rate to 100 and increase travel range. The latter will probably affect balance so adjust the setup accordingly.

As for toe its effects are quite complicated, you definetly want at least +0.1on rear.
Depending on how exactly you are getting entry oversteer both high negative and positive toe can help *a lot*. (negative is good for curing dynamic oversteer, after turning the wheel. Positive is good for braking and initial car rotation before weight transfer). I would suggest -0.3 - -0.5 on fronts.

 

[Dan ONeill]

Ok thanks for the info, I'll put a bit of + toe at the rear again to help stabilise.

As far as rear rebound goes, is that rebound spring stiffness or less damper?

If I reduce the packers then am I right in thinking that the under tray could bottom out? I suppose that's why you raise?

When you refer to negative toe helps with reducing dynamic oversteer, do you mean the front? Toe out?

Thanks again, I appreciate the info

 

[Pawel Ziolkowski]

Rebound/bump settings are only for dampers Less rear rebound makes the inside rear tires maintain traction better in turn in. Read the ingame tooltips, they are quite good.

As for packers, the rear of single seaters usually is high above ground to get best downforce from diffuser. Its more likely you will feel loss of downforce before undertray will hit the ground. Even with full travel and minimal packer rate its not very likely you will bottom out rear. That is unless you run the rear with too low ride height and thus not only lacking suspension travel but also lowering downforce/ aero efficiency.

As for toe, yes i mean front toe. In general rear toe is rarely seen with negative or excessive positive toe. Front is where most changes to stability are made.
Negative toe on the front will make the car nervous under braking and increase initial turn in speed, but then it results in understeer before the apex. (I assumed you have a problem with oversteer right after turn in, if not, try positive front toe.)

 

[Dan ONeill]

Thanks, I followed your advice and adjusted a hybrid of Austins setup and mine to reduce the initial turn in and front grip levels. Got a 1.4 sec improvement over my previous PB. Big gains...
Some of this is my driving obviously as I was able to practice more with less spins and I was also more able to drive closer to the limit.
Also key was to adjust the centre of pressure for the S curve and the following two corners.

 

[gnr_tb]

turns out there was some major physics bug that made drag increase your top speed, at least from the underbody. setting ride height front to max and rear to min would change the top speed to around 390 kph. I think once they release the fix this evening all our setups would useless and the car would behave a lot different.

 

[jerry090460]

thanks

 

[Joco Gorenc]

turns out there was some major physics bug that made drag increase your top speed, at least from the underbody. setting ride height front to max and rear to min would change the top speed to around 390 kph. I think once they release the fix this evening all our setups would useless and the car would behave a lot different.

Ooooh and I was wondering how those laps on Monza66 with 380kph top speed were possible