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Loosing Places on start

Discussion in 'F1 2010 - The Game' started by Ivan1914, Oct 3, 2010.

  1. Hi,
    does anyone have some tips for the start? My starts really suck and always loose one or two positions. in rain even more.
    How much rev should i have before lights turn green, how much throttle should i use after race is started...

    Tips like these might help.

    greetz
     
  2. I think it's game limitations some... but immediately change lanes to block or push AI to edge of track behind you and drift back to other side as well! Be sure to not over rev, shift quickly on Que!
     
  3. Peter

    Peter
    Premium Member

    I do about 80% trotlle and go fast true the first 3 gears and never loose a position on the start.
     
  4. I generally bring the revs to around 6500 rpm just as the last light goes on and then shift up through the gears to at least third as quickly as possible during start, in an attempt to reduce wheelspin...except for SPA. For that, I usually approach the first hairpin in second gear and get ready for chaos and the blast down the hill to Eau Rouge.
     
  5. the way i do it is just try and block the other cars off but it doesnt always work because when your blocking one someone else overtakes but most of the time it works
     
  6. What? F1 engines are sort of idle at 6500...
     
  7. Do you have fuel sim on?

    It seems the AI do not carry fuel despite the player car doing so.

    Also the amount of fuel your car starts with depends on the race distance you set. At 100% race distance you start the race with 100% full tanks, at 30% race distance you start with only 30% of fuel in tank.

    So with longer races it's much harder, as your car is heavier and your laptimes will be slower with slower acceleration, top speed and less grip, meaning losing places of the start.

    To get a fair race against the AI it's best to turn Fuel sim off for now until we get a patch that hopefully sorts it. Leave Tyre sim on though, otherwise the game is far too easy with too much grip and handles like Toad in Mario Kart.
     
  8. NO...around 4000 to keep the hydraulic pumps supplying enough volume...about 9000 during pitstops to keep from heat soaking and to keep the clutch happy.
     
  9. Yes, but they don't launch from near-idle speeds. If they did you wouldn't hear a huge buzz right before the lights go green.
    The problem with this game is that it forgets pilots not only do throttle control at the starts but clutch control too. They have 2 paddles behind the steering wheel which are progressive so they control how much clutch they're using, which lets them control how much power is actually going to the wheels.
    If they simulated race start wheelspin they should have simulated the clutch too.
    In my opinion they should have both left wheelspin and clutch out, and the only real parameter you'd have to control in the start is your reaction time. Lights go green, hit the gear up for first and that's that. If you launch too early, penalty.
     
  10. In the bottom of the rev bar there are like 5 little markers, for each light that comes on for the start I hit one of them. There is a further mark about half way up the revs, thats where I am when the lights go out, and usually make a position that way. Its like launch control or something. Not sure if thats something built into the game, or just something that works for me :)
     
  11. i do the same thign it seems to work pretty well but the car im in at the moment is not quick so i occassionaly have to block players from getting by