Logitech G27 | Official Support Thread

Quote ' Released in 2006, Logitech’s G25 racing wheel has quickly earned a reputation for being the benchmark in terms of semi-professional steering wheels. Two and a half years after it’s introducion, hints on its successor are coming up.

Even though Logitech has yet to confirm to be working on the G27, the web is full of rumors and fake pictures, depicting what the new Logitech wheel will look like. Among all the guessing, there are some interesting facts on the G27 though:

1) Logitech has already assigned a parts number to the new wheel - 941-000045 A quick Google search returns plenty of hits on various online shops who already list the new item, including the name G27. Of course, none of these “dummy entries” have further information yet, they´re all listed for prices between 270 and 350 US dollars.

2) The G25 is currently available for very low prices. At its release in 2006, the wheel sold for $299, today it can be found as cheap as $139. That may just be due to the wheel’s age, it may be a sign of selling out the last stocked examples though.

3) Logitech is forced to react, the steering wheel market isn’t the same as it was in 2006. Fanatec is on a quick way to becoming a major competitor, offering a line of high quality steering wheels which are partly superior to the G25. Feature-rich products like the Clubsport Pedals will surely worry Logitech enough to work on a new flagship product.

There’s still zero information avaialble on the features of this new wheel, below is the newest picture that is supposed to show the G27. It includes new buttons and a LED rev-meter, chances are pretty high that it is another fake though. While nobody knows when the G27 is due, it is pretty much confirmed that it is indeed coming our way.'
http://www.virtualr.net/logitech-g27-around-the-corner/
 
@Bram
I did find USB adapter for g27 pedals. Perhaps it would work if its separate USB wires to wheel. But its done by Leo Badner and it would cost me like 50€. Unacceptable. For an adapter. And I don't even know if it would work? Any other solutions?
 
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Hello folks. Would anyone happen to have any info on the wiring of the G27 PCB? Specifically, the 7-wire connector on the steering wheel, on which the cable coming from inside the hub plugs.
I have looked but only found info regarding the wiring for the pedals and shifter. http://i.imgur.com/Mc6OUQt.jpg

Thanks in advance.
 
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I've just bought the G27, the Logitech Gaming Software doesn't recognise it (no devices found, latest software version). Games like F1 2012 or Assetto Corsa regocnise it without problem, but have no FFB. The Logitech Site is pretty useless, but maybe one of you can point me in the right direction.

- Windows 8.1 64Bit, all drivers updated
- during startup the wheel calibrates, lights work, etc
- in Control Panel\Devices and Printer the G27 is listed, shows no problems detected, and I can calibrate it

I've done alle the recommended steps during the installion process: check that it is connected US B 2.0 , unplucked all other USB 2/3.0 and wireless devices before installation:
- the Logitech Gaming Software installes, gives a note of succes, but after I click on Finish, the Software doesn't find any devices.
- did a lot of tries, including clean boot, changing US
B Ports

To be clear, the steering, accelerating and breaking work fine ( - clutch isn't recognised) i.e. AC, F1 2012. Race07, but I just can't get any FFB.

Is there a way to activate FFB on a G27 without the Logitech software?

As a lot of people are using it with simular configuratiuons I wonder what could be wrong? Any suggestions?
You need to be using Logitech's software version 5.10.127
 
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I'm having this strange issue where the steering is losing connection briefly while turning, sometime multiple times, or what I call a "glitch". I have changed the optical wheel to a brass one, but and still having this issue. I have contacted Logitech, but all they told me to do was recalibrate the wheel, which didn't help. I have also tweaked the USB ports in Windows 10 and BIOS, changed ports, uninstalled and reinstalled Profiler, the whole 9 yards. Below is a video I made from RF2 highlighting the issue.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/49z1w07zfrh8msa/rF2 Wheel Wobble.mp4?dl=0
Any help would be appreciated.
 
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I'm having this strange issue where the steering is losing connection briefly while turning, sometime multiple times, or what I call a "glitch". I have changed the optical wheel to a brass one, but and still having this issue. I have contacted Logitech, but all they told me to do was recalibrate the wheel, which didn't help. I have also tweaked the USB ports in Windows 10 and BIOS, changed ports, uninstalled and reinstalled Profiler, the whole 9 yards. Below is a video I made from RF2 highlighting the issue.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/49z1w07zfrh8msa/rF2 Wheel Wobble.mp4?dl=0
Any help would be appreciated.


HEY ... I just had that problem. I'm looking for the posts I made asking about it. If i find them, I'll edit and add them to this post. (post 28 on this thread talks about the problem http://www.simracingsystem.com/showthread.php?tid=2205&page=3)

anyoldway, I also thought that the problem was in the wheel as well, but it wasn't. I also replaced my encoder wheel even though the old one looked pretty good. No Help!

After not being able to find any information on this type failure, I bought a brand new G27 to use as a known-good-unit to help with the diagnostics. As soon as I plugged the NEW pedal assembly into my rig, the problem went away.

A while back, I had a problem with the wire harness that runs from the pedal assembly to the Steering wheel. The harness had gotten stuck under my rig and inside the insulation the metal wire pushed through it's insulation and shorted out. I skinned off the insulation, put on a bit of heat-shrink and this problem was resolved ...

Naturally, when the shutting-off-in-corners problem came along, I thought it might be the same thing ... so I found a heavier gage bit of 5-core telephone wire (Belden - M 9941 CMG 5C22 Shielded) and the proper fitting and made a new harness. But that wasn't the problem with the pedals.

Based on suggestions I DID find, using BOTH WD40 and CRC electrical contact cleaner I had been cleaning the potentiometers by just spraying it in, blowing it out with compressed air and giving it a go ... but no joy there either ... UNTIL I got real aggressive with the stuff.

I ended up soaking the pots in BOTH WD40 AND the CRC Elect Cleaner over night. Then I sprayed it into the hole in the pot ... and worked the pedal over and over again. I did it to all three pedals ... re-assembled the assembly ... and it worked.

I've been driving for a couple weeks now with no problems ... except I have a new G27 set I have to sell ... or my wife is gonna kill me.

Give it a try. Let me know how you make out.
 
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BTW ... along the way I did learn a little something about those encoder wheels. You guys probably already know this ... the G25 and the EARLY G27 wheel use a 60 slot encoder wheel, the LATER G27 uses a 30 slot encoder wheel.

One of my son's owns an EARLY G27 rig ... and it's broken, so I have had a chance to do a comparison. Many people have suggested that the boards are different, but they both (EARLY and LATE) appear to have the same numbers.

Excuse me if this has been posted before, but I think the difference is in the rack and pinion gear ratios between the Early and the Late version G27.

The EARLY wheel turns only 1 and 1/2 turns lock to lock, or 3/4 turn from center to lock, left or right.

The LATE wheel turns 2 and 1/2 turns lock to lock or 1 1/4 turn from center to lock, left or right.

I'm thinking this accounts for the difference in the number of slots in the encoder wheels rather than the boards.

But I guess I'm going to find out more. My son's wheel developed a problem when loading up. It would spin all the way in one direction, and then spin all the way over in the opposite direction ... and stop there. Upon examination, my son found that it had broken its encoder wheel, and he replaced it with the proper brass one ... but it still does the very same thing ... upon loading in it spins in one direction, spins back in the opposite ... and stays there.

I'm thinking that one or the other of the two boards may be the problem. As I mentioned, I bought a nos Logitech G27 to use as a known-good-unit. This coming week, hopefully, I will find out.
 
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