F1 2011 Logitech Driving Force GT settings

F1 2011 The Game (Codemasters)
I dont know if this will be of any help to anyone, but have spent most of the afternoon trying to get this to work.

Firstly to explain that once you change the LDFGT default settings in the options menu the device name changes to CUSTOM and this is where the problems lie. If you load the game again without your LDFGT or if its not recognised for any reason the game reverts to the original custom settings which are for the keyboard... so you lose your settings. So make sure your wheel is active before you load the game. Also unfortunately if you then change your settings again sometimes they vanish on start up, I couldn't work out why, but its only if you make changes!! So find what suits and write them down.

The default settings for the LDFGT are no good, and the force feedback didnt work at all on mine. There are other posts on here which give some tips so I tried them all and this is what I came up with.. which works very well.

In the Logitech Profiler for the game (options/global device settings) leave the overall spring and damper settings at 100%, turn the centrespring on at 50% (-75%), 250 degree rotation, and allow the game to alter the settings.

In the game itself Advance wheel settings are 2,20,45,2,10,2,10 for the seven settings from the top down.

In the game itself Force Feedback Settings are ON, 10, 30, 30 again top of the page down.

Hope this gives you somewhere to start from, but the end result is fantastic on my wheel!!

Sorry guys this is for F1 2011, can someone move this.. Thanks
 
Hi all, in order to help us, can anyone post the settings with the same format?

Logitech game profiler's screen, advanced settings in game and force feedback settings in game!

This is the only method to help us to find the same settings.

If you give us only a setting (in game or only about the profiler) is very difficult to try...

Sorry for my english!
 
First try this: set the wheel back to the default settings. I believe the instructions on the page for the Advanced Wheel Settings are backwards. I also had a terrible time, until I reset the wheel and figured out the instructions are reversed.

How do I do this?

I can't see a default reset.

I have tried everythign and now have resorted to putting force feedback on 100%. I have never even turned FF on before as I don't like it.

When I say "juddery" I mean I turn the wheel say 30% in a turn and then suddenly there's a bit of resistance to it, like a mini force feedback, even though it's off. This means that driving is nto smooth at all, and when turnign at pace the change from no resistance to some reistance means the car changes direction because the wheel judders.

It's a nightmare.

in 2010 my settings were something like:

0
90
90
0
90
0
90
0

with no force feedback on
 
Guys, I've tested this extensively, and one thing is sure for f1 2011: in advanced settings, if you set everything to 0 you get 1:1 movement from wheel and pedals - this should be the perfect way.

Any increase of saturation means that you decrease the "active" movement zone. For example if you set the wheel at 200 degrees (100 left/100 right) and saturation at 50%, that means that you get 100 degrees lock-to-lock. The rest of the movement of the wheel is useless, since after 50 degrees rotation to one side, in-game you arrive at full lock and the rest 50 is empty movement. So, instead of increasing saturation, just decrease the number of degrees in the profiler to a value that is comfortable to you. (315 degrees for 1:1 visual sync with the in-game wheel).

As far as linearity goes, many say that 50% gives 1:1 sync of the wheel movement with the in-game wheel. While it is true for the Simbin series and maybe F1 2010, in the case of F1 2011 the value "0" gives the perfect sync. Any increase of the linearity makes the wheel less sensitive for the first part of the rotation (around the center) and more responsive towards the end. This could help some, but is not realistic.

My recommendation: set a number of degrees of rotation that you feel comfortable with (ideally 315, decrease if you have trouble reaching the pesky paddle shifters - 210 is a good compromise); set all advanced wheel settings to 0. Increase only the values if you need some extra help, such as a little deadzone for the wheel and pedals, maybe some saturation for the pedals to reduce the travel if you feel the need. I would steer clear of wheel saturation and linearity, for the reasons explained above.
 
sounds like I am having the exact same problem as someone with a G27 wheel:

I get this too but an opposite effect, e.g. I go into Parabolica with a light wheel and then when I turn it more it grabs and I have to hold onto it and then going down the straight I have to hold the wheel as the car is pulling to the left big time and then all of a sudden the force releases into a neutral feel (very light again). My G27 works fine in all other games including Dirt3 and I've tried a few changes as suggested in this thread, but still this is unacceptable as I've had to turn FFB off in order to drive.

I've had this issue with Rfactor in the past and that was due to the FFB setting being inversed i.e. I changed it from +86 to -86 and it was fine after that.

Anyone else have this with this game?
 
(merged) Driving Force GT settings (PS3)

Hey guys,

Does anyone know what the default settings (both advanced wheel settings and ffb?) were on the PS3 game for the driving force GT? I changed them expecting it to be like 2010 and it isn't, but now even when I change to that profile it won't go back to the defaults.

Also, does anyone have good settings for it yet?

Thanks
 
This is so disapointing....even with all settings on 0 and logitech profiler set at 310, yes its 1:1, but it feels ****e compared to F1-2010, I keep going back to F1-2010 just to reassure myself that it does feel that good compared to 2011.........seems loads peoples complaints about handling also have a GT
 
This is so disapointing....even with all settings on 0 and logitech profiler set at 310, yes its 1:1, but it feels ****e compared to F1-2010, I keep going back to F1-2010 just to reassure myself that it does feel that good compared to 2011.........seems loads peoples complaints about handling also have a GT

It is nothing like F1 2010. Could there be a patch to correct this?

It is undrivable for me. Which is ludicrous seeing I just spent all this money on a wheel just for the F1 games (about £150)
 
After digesting this thread and the one on the officail forum, mixed in with some trial and error testing I have settled on:

Logitec profiler: Overall Effects 80%
Spring Effect 0%
Damper Effect 0%
Center Spring Strength 0% (allow Cent Spring ticked)
Deegrees Rotation 271

Advanced Wheel Settings: all at 0 except Brake Deadzone 40% (I have a heavy left foot!)

Force Feed back: Enviromental Effects 40%
Feedback Strength 10%
Wheel Weight 30%

FYI: PC / No assists

The settings could be better but I just want to get on with some driving! I will be watching this thread with interest to see how it develops!
 
Unfortunately, FFB really sucks, as many have found out. As far as I can tell, the biggest problem is the difference between the amount of force applied when the wheels grip the track and the moment they start to slip. While it provides an important feedback on what's going on, it also translates in a "notchy" feel to the steering. Race 07 also has this problem by default, with a parameter called "grip factor" that has a value of 0.8 (as in only 20% percent of the grip when sliding); setting that to 0.5 changes the FFB feel completely.

Until someone figures out a solution by modifying the ffb config files, the only cure is to set a certain amount of center spring in the logitech profiler. I'd say 30 to 50% should suffice, depending on how you like your FFB.
 
the only cure is to set a certain amount of center spring in the logitech profiler. I'd say 30 to 50% should suffice, depending on how you like your FFB.

Apparently I like it right in the middle. Have settled on 40%

30% still has the 'loosening' effect on full turns, whereas 50% was a bit too physical for my puny arms!

Cheers for the advice.

I'm sure we can get it better still though!
 
Well, this took a bit of testing and changing and I am still not entierly happy but for now it feels ok. Default settings as well as my 2010 settings were undrivable.

This is what I have now, it will probably change when I have done some more driving:

Logitec profiler:

Overall Effects 50%
Spring Effect 0%
Damper Effect 0%
Center Spring Strength 0% (Center Spring NOT ticked)
Deegrees Rotation 200

Advanced Wheel Settings: All at 0

Force Feed back:
Enviromental Effects 30%
Feedback Strength 20%
Wheel Weight 10%

PC - No assist other then autogears
 
Apparently I like it right in the middle. Have settled on 40%

30% still has the 'loosening' effect on full turns, whereas 50% was a bit too physical for my puny arms!

Cheers for the advice.

I'm sure we can get it better still though!

That is exactly the perfect amount needed, thanks for the input!

Well, with the collective feedback of the DFGT owners on this thread I arrived to my final settings until some mod or patch is released.

Here goes:

In-game controller settings:
Override device input type: steering wheel;

FFB settings:
Environmental effects: 10;
Force feedback strength 10;
Wheel weight: 30;

Advanced wheel settings: all 0 except steering linearity (10) which helps a little my straight line driving, because I'm using a very small rotation angle.

Logitech profiler settings below:



These settings allowed me to drop 2 seconds on Melbourne while allowing me to properly warm up tires during SC laps and not struggling too much during long sessions. Also the "loose wheel" effect is significantly reduced.

Now it's time to play!
 
- Everything default in the Logitech profiler
- Everything 0% in advanced wheel settings
- Environmental Effects 20%
- Feedback Strength 20%
- Wheel weight 0%

Was just a quick setup - can be a bit twitchy but that suits me :)

Edit: Actually, adding a centre spring strength of about 30% in the logitech profiler works a bit better.
 

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