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Logitech Driving Force GT settings

Discussion in 'F1 2011 - The Game' started by stevehaz_uk, Sep 21, 2011.

  1. I dont know if this will be of any help to anyone, but have spent most of the afternoon trying to get this to work.

    Firstly to explain that once you change the LDFGT default settings in the options menu the device name changes to CUSTOM and this is where the problems lie. If you load the game again without your LDFGT or if its not recognised for any reason the game reverts to the original custom settings which are for the keyboard... so you lose your settings. So make sure your wheel is active before you load the game. Also unfortunately if you then change your settings again sometimes they vanish on start up, I couldn't work out why, but its only if you make changes!! So find what suits and write them down.

    The default settings for the LDFGT are no good, and the force feedback didnt work at all on mine. There are other posts on here which give some tips so I tried them all and this is what I came up with.. which works very well.

    In the Logitech Profiler for the game (options/global device settings) leave the overall spring and damper settings at 100%, turn the centrespring on at 50% (-75%), 250 degree rotation, and allow the game to alter the settings.

    In the game itself Advance wheel settings are 2,20,45,2,10,2,10 for the seven settings from the top down.

    In the game itself Force Feedback Settings are ON, 10, 30, 30 again top of the page down.

    Hope this gives you somewhere to start from, but the end result is fantastic on my wheel!!

    Sorry guys this is for F1 2011, can someone move this.. Thanks
  2. logitech driving force gt settings ps3


    Ffb settings

    This is my settings thru trial and error. Feels pretty good actually...wheel does not get too extremely light in tighter corners...ran a lap of 1.23.3 at Austin. In ft mode with it...picked up a 1/2 of a second w/o messing with the car, only changed these...am running a custom set up on my car as well
  3. Sorry that is wrong. You can make all the changes you want and they will save...

    All you have to do is when you see the screen "press start or hit enter", do not hit enter on the keyboard!

    That will change everything back to default keyboard.

    You must hit the button on your LDFGT to start. Then all your settings are still there.

    They explained this on the Codmasters forums:

  4. I'll have to give the PS3 settings a try, I'm not entirely happy with what I've got.

    Ummm, you get F1: 2012 already? (Austin)
  5. Why do you set saturation and linearity in steering above 0?
    With 310 degrees in the profiler (and 0 on all other stuff, center spring, etc.) and 0 on all advanced wheel settings in-game, I get 1:1 response from the wheel (graphically, at least).
    If you go above 310 degrees, I would understand but otherwise isn't i better to have 1:1 input response?

    I also find FFB VERY strong with this game with DFGT, I mean at 20:20:40 FFB settings I get blisters on my hands..need gloves. I see that many G25's use 100 FFB, for me 15% would be perfect so I guess I'm gonna go at a reduced level in the profiler to be able to adjust it to my liking.
  6. Was searching for that exact 1:1 setting for the wheel. Will try 310° tonight. And FFB is indeed very strong. On PS3/F12010 it was rather weak, even on 100%. This one shakes my fingers off.
  7. Lol...dang spell check on my phone! Wish we had Austin...australia is what I meant...sorry for any confusion
  8. Interesting, keep the info coming on your settings for the DFGT, I have one also (PC) Seems like my current settings might have to be changed a bit from what I have been reading so far...
  9. LDFGT settings will differ from user to user, I was really just setting a start point as there had been no other posts at that time. But for info.. the 200 - 250 degree rotation gives a shorter lock and therefore those pesky little buttons on the back of the wheel are much more accessible getting close to full lock. With a shorter lock I also felt more comfortable with a very slight lag.
    I agree with you about FFB and I couldn't get it to my liking, so with the centering spring on at 50% and lower FFB settings (10,30,30) I managed to get what I thought was a pretty good feel!! But just my opinion!!

    Thanks to Mike Coleman for the advice on saving the settings, it works a treat.. didnt ever know you could start the game with the start button on the wheel!! oh well!!
  10. really struggling with this. It seems far more sensitive than in f1 2010. why?

    trued all the options above but the first 15% of the turn feels like I'm turning in thin air. I need more assurance that I am turning as I can't feel how much I am actually turning.
  11. Hi guys,

    these are my settings from f1 2010, worked perfect on f1 2010!

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    the wheel rotation was 1:1 (180 degrees, look picture)

    on f1 2011 the settings are terrible, i drive from left to right and back...the standard settings ara also not good.

    can someone help me to find good settings.

    sorry for ma bad englisch :)

    greets cole
  12. I am having a personal nightmare. I cannot get any good settings. my wheel is juddery and even when dropping down two levels to amateur I am coming 18th on tracks where I was previously 1st.

    I know it's a different game This is a nightmare
  13. I see you have a PS3, and I can only speak for the PS3.....but I think there are some errors on the PS3 setup for the DFGT.

    Take the pedal saturation for example...the in-game info states that "Increasing the throttle saturation will improve the pedal's sensitivity". This is *absolutely* false. At 0%, the throttle has the most play, moving it up actually makes it *less* sensitive...same with the brake.

  14. Thank you.

    But I have no idea what your post means. I just want to play the game, and I can't because the wheel is just awful. I am gutted.
  15. The game seems unplayable with a Logitech GT.

    I spent alot of money 2 months ago on a Logitech GT. i was eagerly awaiting this game.

    It arrived this morning.

    I have just spent 6 hours trying to get a suitable setup. But every permutation is wrong because the wheel jolts halfway through a turn. With force feedback and without. High / low saturation. It is fine on F1 2010.

    I am using a PS3 and I just don't know what to do next.

    Over £120 for this and the wheel doesn't turn smoothly on a hairpin.


    Am I the only one?
  16. I have no idea what you mean by "juddery" when describing your wheel. But try these settings:

    Wheel Settings
  17. First try this: set the wheel back to the default settings. I believe the instructions on the page for the Advanced Wheel Settings are backwards. I also had a terrible time, until I reset the wheel and figured out the instructions are reversed.
  18. wow i improved my times by 6 seconds1!!!!! I just did a 1.29.794 on Melbourn Still 3rd tho :(
  19. This worked well for me.

    This year I've started out using no assists at all, had to have TC on in '10.

    Before applying these settings I was quite comfortable with the wheel and with TC off.

    I then seen this thread and applied these settings and wow, makes one hell of a difference. A lot smoother to drive, can turn in quite late. Also as I've got a lead foot, I keep getting too much wheel spin in the lower gears (obviously I'm just putting to much power down) but doing the exact same thing with these settings has seemed to reduce the wheel spin.

    So thanks Cody, great settings for me.

    Also, this was tested in TT mode, so might actually be different in Career or Online, but I'll check that out later.
  20. Sun


    Here's mine, it works PERFECTLY!

    Rotation Degrees : 270


    Its important that your OVERRIDE INPUT TYPE IS: STEERING WHEEL!