Inexpensive transducers for simvibe

JeffL

Right on Brother, I hear ya, it's all good.
Some of the guys in the club were asking about some affordable transducers for Simvibe.

I have $50 sub and the 4 pack 16 0hm minis ($44) drive in 2 zones by 2 - $20 lepai amps and not even close to using all the power. Actually just the large shaker and one amp would be sufficient but....

The company that makes the transducers is Dayton Audio but the best price is from Parts Express

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/tactile-transducers-exciters-bass-shakers/18
Have fun.
 
its really up to you, you only have 3 channels of "vibe" if you look at the chassis you really only have three channels. It is kind of a wierd routing system. Here is my config, it is a little weird because of how I paired them.


ch 1 -left stereo - green- seat 2 -16 ohm paralleled(for 8 ohms) mounted on pedals
ch 2 -right stereo -green- shifter 2 -16 ohm paralleled(for 8 ohms) one mounted on H-shifter and one mounted on steering column


c
h 3 left stereo -black- pedal 1- 4ohm large transducer mounted on seat pushed by a second amp


Letters in red are the simvibe labels
This kind of gives you an idea of how you can be creative. Most of these lower priced amps are based on 8ohm it is the most efficient point of the amps.

Try avoid putting too many signals down a path. For instance road texture and engine vibe are similar and will basically cancel each other out, your transducers can only do one thing at a time.

One more thing the simcommander pairs the shifter and the seat and you can't change that.
 
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its really up to you, you only have 3 channels of "vibe" if you look at the chassis you really only have three channels. It is kind of a wierd routing system. Here is my config, it is a little weird because of how I paired them.
why are my pucks producing sound?

ch 1 -left stereo - green- seat 2 -16 ohm paralleled(for 8 ohms) mounted on pedals
ch 2 -right stereo -green- shifter 2 -16 ohm paralleled(for 8 ohms) one mounted on H-shifter and one mounted on steering column


c
h 3 left stereo -black- pedal 1- 4ohm large transducer mounted on seat pushed by a second amp


Letters in red are the simvibe labels
This kind of gives you an idea of how you can be creative. Most of these lower priced amps are based on 8ohm it is the most efficient point of the amps.

Try avoid putting too many signals down a path. For instance road texture and engine vibe are similar and will basically cancel each other out, your transducers can only do one thing at a time.

One more thing the simcommander pairs the shifter and the seat and you can't change that.
 
its really up to you, you only have 3 channels of "vibe" if you look at the chassis you really only have three channels. It is kind of a wierd routing system. Here is my config, it is a little weird because of how I paired them.


ch 1 -left stereo - green- seat 2 -16 ohm paralleled(for 8 ohms) mounted on pedals
ch 2 -right stereo -green- shifter 2 -16 ohm paralleled(for 8 ohms) one mounted on H-shifter and one mounted on steering column


c
h 3 left stereo -black- pedal 1- 4ohm large transducer mounted on seat pushed by a second amp


Letters in red are the simvibe labels
This kind of gives you an idea of how you can be creative. Most of these lower priced amps are based on 8ohm it is the most efficient point of the amps.

Try avoid putting too many signals down a path. For instance road texture and engine vibe are similar and will basically cancel each other out, your transducers can only do one thing at a time.

One more thing the simcommander pairs the shifter and the seat and you can't change that.
Thanks man. I should be getting everything next week. Really looking forward to this.
 
Thanks man. I should be getting everything next week. Really looking forward to this.
i got my pucks all set up now but to be honest this whole thing has been a waste of time simvibe is good but those pucks are not they dont have no punch to them they are very weak and dont give good feedback besides the engine everything else like road bumps gear change is just rubbish.i might go for a proper buttkicker next time if there is a next time.
 
How good they perform depends on one thing: the surface they are attached to. If you have a solid rig with not much resonance, I guess you will not get the best vibration from them.
My pedal board is simple, DIY thin chipboard and it works really well. If I sawed it in half so that left and right were separate, I reckon I would feel the left and right kerb separation even better, which I will do when I get chance.
My seat is also fixed to simple chipboard, but a bit too thick. I will put thinner board in when I get time, but it still works well.
Sorry you are disappointed, but maybe take a look at the surfaces you are fixing them to.
 
i got my pucks all set up now but to be honest this whole thing has been a waste of time simvibe is good but those pucks are not they dont have no punch to them they are very weak and dont give good feedback besides the engine everything else like road bumps gear change is just rubbish.i might go for a proper buttkicker next time if there is a next time.
Your wrong.
 
i got my pucks all set up now but to be honest this whole thing has been a waste of time simvibe is good but those pucks are not they dont have no punch to them they are very weak and dont give good feedback besides the engine everything else like road bumps gear change is just rubbish.i might go for a proper buttkicker next time if there is a next time.
Look Man, i have tried to offer advice on an inexpensive feedback system for people that don't want to spend a large amount of money. It seems that you throw a temper tantrum every post. i have aided quite a few people get this dialed in and it seems all you want to do is complain. This is a DIY and takes a little time and patience, which it seems you do not have. So if you don't want to make it work, I won't waste another ounce of my benevolent breath.
 
Michael
I've been sim racing for about 1.5 years
I also just started checking the forum out
It's like this:
Find my posts
Do not write encyclopedia volumes as I did
They look silly, but somehow these guys didn't
shun me or think I was a troll
Great great bunch of helpful people here. There is also great guys in AC forum.
Especially a guy named Georg, very cool guy indeed.
BTW, I have a colleague in Europe
Dude has a six year old MoMo wheel attached to a desk
He is what they call an alien.
Hope to see you enjoy this world as I do.
Cheers mate!
 
I have no experience with those transducers and I haven't seen any reviews here at RD but if you decide to go with them make sure you write a review.
 
As of today I have all the pieces needed. Two amps, four pucks, and the buttkicker. I have simvibe installed and ready. Did a quick test with one of the pucks and an amp and it worked. The question for this weekend is going to be how to mount the pucks to my pedals and possibly shifter. I'm using a wheel stand with fanatec club sport elite pedals and a TH8A shifter. I'm thinking of mounting the pucks vertically, on either side of my pedals. Any ideas?
 
I think you have to find a balance between sturdy and being able to amplify the signal. If its. 14 gauge stock steel it might not vibrate well, so think of it like a diving board. If you strike it right where it's attached you get very little spring, but hit it right at the end and oh boy, huge cannonball coming. boing:D You just have to experiment a little. If it's just a set of plastic based pedals, attach it to the base and somehow bridge the pedals off the floor with a couple pieces of stout rubber,or wood strips, get the idea.?
 

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