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IndyCar Setup

Discussion in 'GRID Autosport' started by Rob, Jun 30, 2014.

  1. Rob

    XBO: OctoberDusk06 Premium Member


    Brake Bias - 10% rear
    DIff - 100% right
    Downforce - 50%-80% right (20% at Indy)
    Gear Ratio - Depends on Track
    Suspension (front) - 60% right
    Suspension (rear) - 80% right
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2014
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  2. I'll be trying this out tomorrow.

    Enjoyed the Indy Racenet challenge this evening, it's a lot of fun but think they should have made them a bit harder to achieve the medals.
  3. I did that one too... I was sitting there screaming "omigod the speed" :D
    I did not expect those IndyCars to be (or atleast feel) that fast on the indy oval :p
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  4. Had another go this morning just before ther cutoff and totally agree with you that the feeling of speed is fantastic :thumbsup:. Have some wheel issues lot sort out as it's not quite right at the moment but made it into the top 3% before it was time to get off and got to work lol
  5. Rob

    XBO: OctoberDusk06 Premium Member

    I'm going to have to go on there now. lol. I was at day 1 when I did mine.
  6. Rob

    XBO: OctoberDusk06 Premium Member

    Since posting this, I've noticed a few things about the tuning. It maters more than I thought it would, although it still isn't there to primarily gain you speed, even though it can.

    Brake Bias: this seems to be series specific. For instance, IndyCar and open wheel in general favors neutral bias, but this may be heavily dependent on your wheel or controller. I have a Fanatec CSR pedal set (non-elite) and the IndyCar locks up very easily no matter what setting I use. It helps to put a little dead-zone in there, but lockups still persist. Front bias tends to help, but this is dangerous, since this can cause over-steer beyond 10%. So I usually say at 0. For the tin tops, 20% on either side seems to be best, but this is very car specific. I generally do a lock up test (pick a spot on the track to slam on the brakes at high speed and see at what mph I lock and what the stopping distance is) then go with the best results. FWD cars generally like front bias and RWD cars generally rear bias, but where the engine sits makes a difference too.

    Diff: This is almost always either 80% or 100% (for tail happy cars like old American muscle cars), but a setting of 0 or even -50% can help on an oval, for instance. This really makes a big difference is helping the cars to stick in the corners.

    Downforce: Another big difference maker in the corners. Since this is not really a SIM, I tend to err on the side of more downforce except on the ovals, where zero downforce seems to be best (at least with the open wheel class). Some of the non-grip cars need loads of downforce.

    Gear Ratio: More important than I first realized, since it can really help you with accelerating out of turns. I don't automatically set it at "longest" for ovals either, since that usually means I'm not at the peak rev range in the corners. Small sprint tracks could probably see you set the gears pretty short to gain an advantage.

    Suspension (front): Highly dependent on the car, but always useful in getting the car to stick in the corners. Since the game tends to err on the side of cars being loose, I typically go +70-100% because the higher setting allows the front to turn in better whereas the rear does not need to. For any given car, I typically use a 20% difference in either setting with the front being 20% more than the rear. But you could probably go lower and be okay.

    Suspension (rear): Another setting that is highly dependent on the car, but always useful in getting the car to stick in the corners. Since the game tends to err on the side of cars being loose in the rear end, I typically go +50-80% on the rear so the car will be very tight in the corner, but you could probably go lower and be okay. This range just gives me the crispness of handling I'm used to in F1 and plants the back end solidly.
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