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How to: setup the cars

Discussion in 'RACE 07 - Official WTCC Game' started by Pedro van Baelen, Dec 29, 2006.

  1. Gears

    Lengthen Gears (+) Increased max speed, decreased acceleration.
    Shorten Gears (-) Decreased max speed, Increased acceleration.

    Wing

    Wing (+) Increased understeer, more rear grip, slower max speed.
    Wing (-) Increase oversteer, less rear grip, better max speed.

    Anti Roll Bars
    (Stiffen - Higher (+), Soften - Lower (-))

    Front (+) Increased understeer, less grip on bumpy surfaces, better responsive handling.
    Rear (+) Increased oversteer, less grip on exit of corner and bumpy surfaces, better responsive handling
    Front & Rear (+) More responsive handling, less grip on bumpy surfaces.

    Front (-) Increased oversteer, better grip on bumpy surfaces, less responsive handling.
    Rear (-) Increased understeer, better grip on exit of corners, less responsive handling.
    Front & Rear (-) Car can bottom out, more grip on bumpy surfaces and exit of corners, less responsive handling

    Brake Pressure (%)

    Higher (+) More sensitive, increased brake wear and braking ability.
    Lower (-) Less sensitive, decreased brake wear and ability.

    Brake Bias

    Front (+) Increased understeer in braking, more likely to lock front tyres.
    Rear (-) Increased oversteer in braking, more likely to lock rear tyres.

    Camber
    (inner tyre temp should not be 10 c hotter than outside temp)

    Increase negative camber (-) Better grip in corners.
    Reduce negative camber (+) Less grip in corners.

    Tire Pressure (maintain 80-110 C or 176-230 F temp)

    Higher front (+) Increased understeer, hotter tyres.
    Higher rear (+) Increased oversteer, hotter tyres.
    Lower front (-) Increased oversteer, cooler tyres.
    Lower Rear (-) Increased understeer, cooler tyres.

    Note: there is some disagreement about tire pressure. Some believe that lower tire pressure means more of the tire surface is in contact with the road and will result in high temps.

    Toe In

    read the help menu when you go garage -> setup two, I believe that the original author's explantion of toe-in effects was incorrect.

    Ride Height

    Higher front (+) Increased understeer.
    Higher rear (+) Increased oversteer.
    Decrease front (-) Increased oversteer, car may bottom out.
    Decrease rear (-) Increased understeer, car may bottom out.


    Springs

    Stiffen front (+) Increased understeer, less grip on bumpy surfaces, more responsive handling.
    Stiffen rear (+) Increased oversteer, less grip on bumpy surfaces, more responsive handling.
    Soften front (-) Increased oversteer, less responsive handling, better grip on bumpy surface.
    Soften rear (-) Increased understeer, less responsive handling, better grip on bumpy surfaces.

    Shock Absorbers (bump dampening and rebounds)

    Bumps

    Stiffen front (+) Increased understeer, less grip on bumpy surfaces.
    Stiffen rear (+) Increased oversteer, less grip on bumpy surfaces.
    Soften front (-) Increased oversteer, increased grip on bumpy surfaces.
    Soften Rear (-) Increased understeer, increased grip on bumpy surfaces.

    Rebounds

    Stiffen front (+) Increased understeer at entry/exit of corner, more responsive handling.
    Stiffen rear (+) Increased oversteer at entry/exit of corner, more responsive handling.
    Stiffen both (+) More responsive handling.
    Soften front (-) Increased oversteer at entry/exit of corner, less responsive handling.
    Soften rear (-) Increased understeer at entry exit of corner, less responsive handling.
    Soften both (-) Less responsive handling.

    The Differential

    Increasing the percentage of power locking will give you better traction when going in a straight line but tends to make the 'rear try to overtake the front' when accelerating whilst turning. If you have 100% locking, both rear wheels will recieve the same amount of torque when you accelerate which means that the outside wheel will be more likely to lose grip during cornering.

    Decreasing the power locking will cause more wheelspin in a straight line but you won't get as much power-oversteer because the lions share of the engine torque will be fed to the inside (unloaded) wheel causing it to spin. However doesn't always result in oversteer since it is the outside wheel that is doing most of the work. Beware of setting the power locking too low as this will cause wheelspin.

    The theory for coast locking is the similar but when coasting there is nowhere near as much torque for the diff to transfer to the wheels, only the effect of engine braking. If you encounter oversteer when lifting the throttle, such as when braking, increase the coast locking. If you set the coast locking very high or even 100% you may find that the car becomes unstable when downshifting.

    Decrasing the coast locking frees up the car when decelerating and will help turn-in. Setting the coast locking too low will give you lift-off oversteer.

    Preload is what it says: it applies load to the diff even before torque is tranferred and affects power, coast and neutral throttle (neither accelerating nor decelerating). You have to have enough preload to takeup the play in the bearings so if you set this too low the diff will be 'loose' and the diff will slip and never lock-up fully. Too much preload will make the diff 'tighter' and lockup very suddenly when power is applied. If you were thinking of increasing both power and coast locking, you should try increasing preload instead as this gives you more locking overall.
     
  2. interesting job, thanks
     
  3. thank you very much! you made my powersliding in the M3 E30 so much better!:highfive: