How to set up your steering wheel for Stock Car Extreme

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Renato Simioni

Reiza Studios
Steering wheel alignment with in-game wheels & eliminating steering lag

To match your steering rotation with the in-game steering wheel rotation, just make sure your "GRAPHICAL STEERING WHEEL RANGE" setting in CONTROLS menu matches your controller setting - be that 180, 270, 540, 900 or whatever - this setting affects the in-game graphical steering wheel rotation only. If the controller setting and this in-game setting are the same, both graphical and controller wheels steering position will match 1:1.

If the controller setting and in-game steering wheel rotation are the same but they are still not aligning all the time or lagging, check that:

- steering help is switched off;
- speed sensitivity slider in CONTROLS > CONTROLLER 2 menu is at 0%;
- your FPS performance is over 60 FPS;
- VSync is switched off.

Setting up the correct steering ratio

For controlling the car you also need to ensure the steering ratio is correct. This is the ratio between your controller steering rotation and in-game steering lock (the maximum angle the front wheels will turn, set from the Garage menu).

Default steering lock for all cars is 14 degrees, which is suitable for 270º of steering rotation from your controller. You can achieve better & more realistic steering ratio by setting steering rotation & steering lock as below:

-For the formula cars, MR18, Marcas and the StockV8s, set your controller rotation to 450-540 degrees, and steering lock to 18-24 degrees;

-For the Camaro, Opala and Mini set steering rotation to 900º, and steering lock to 30-33 degrees;

-For the karts, set steering to 180º, keeping default steering lock of 16 degrees.

Keep in mind that the steering rotation that is relevant to steering ratio is from your controller profile - the steering rotation you can set from the CONTROLS menu is just for the graphical steering wheel.


Force Feedback settings

Logitech G25 / G27
p6ZWaLK.jpg

(sorry for portuguese but should be self-explanatory)

As described above, 270 degrees of rotation is suitable for the default steering lock in all cars. It is recommended however that this setting is adjusted to what is more suitable for each car, which will require re-adjusting this setting both in Logitech profile as well as the "GRAPHICAL STEERING WHEEL RANGE" in the Controls menu.

You don´t necessarily have to access the Logitech profile to change wheel rotation with the G25 / G27 - you can do it from the controller itself, by holding the two middle red buttons and press one of the following:

Top: 240 degrees

Right: 670 degrees

Left: 450 degrees

Bottom: 900 degrees

Apparently this also will work for the DFGT, but obviously the settings and buttons to press are different.

In-game there is no secret - just use the settings from the default G25 / G27 profiles, making sure
FFB effects is set to Low and strentgh to -100% . Adjust "GRAPHICAL STEERING WHEEL RANGE" to match your Logitech profile setting:

PHFhIGc.jpg

ALaz9Bn.jpg

(Not that the "HEAD MOVEMENT / LOOK AHEAD / EXAGGERATE YAW sliders are for the view movement in-cockpit, not related to the actual controller setting. Digital rates are relevant for keyboards / gamepad users)
NvYYX1k.jpg


There is naturally a degree of of personal taste to these settings - you may increase centering force for example if you prefer more resistance from the wheel around the center, or you may increase FFB effects in-game from LOW to add canned effects, but these settings should provide the purest FFB.

Settings for TM T500 RS & Fanatec CSR V1/V2 will follow up shortly.
 
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@Spinelli
What do you have the rates (steering, clutch, brake, throttle) set to for the T500?
Those "digital" rates? Those are just for buttons like if you use an on/off button like on your keyboard, your gamepad, a button on your wheel, etc. It affects how fast the input goes to full from the moment you press the button. For example, setting the throttle's digital rate to 10% means it takes a while for the button press to build up to full throttle - it's a gradual increase - but if you set the digital rate to 95% then almost as soon as you press the button you'll go from 0% throttle to full throttle extremely quickly.

They don't do anything for pedals or any types of controls like that.

The option was very useful and crucial for me when I had no clutch pedal and used the button on my wheel for clutch. Setting the digital rate lower meant the clutch would more slowly go from 100% to 0% when letting go of the clutch button; that would allowed me to get more clutch slip when taking off from the start instead of bogging down.
 
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Just received my Accuforce last week. What I nice driving experience. Just great. I have a final league race this sunday, so just using normal Game FFB, High Settings in SimCommander, but FFB in SimCommander at 45%. The rest I left as it was for now. After the last league race I will start playing around with Foundation FFB which is based on GSCE Telemetry output.
 
I owned a T500RS (now a CSW V2). The FFB is generally excellent in Stock Car Extreme and definitely in the top two of best FFB in the entire racing game/sim industry. There seems to be an issue on your end. Try the following:

T500RS Control Panel FFB Settings
- Overall Strength of all Forces = 72%
(60% is the "true" 100% for the T500RS but 72% is apparently the closest to fully linear according to tests and therefore 72% should be the best setting and your default for most games).
- Constant = 100%
- Periodic = 100%
- Spring = 0%
- Damper = 0%
- Auto-Center Settings = by the game (Recommended)

T500RS Control Panel Steering Rotation Settings
Set this to 540 degrees for now (you can change this later depending on the car you use and how much in-game steering lock you set for the particular car being driven).

Stock Car Extreme In-Game Settings

Controller 1 Section:


- Presets = Please scroll through the presets (clicking the left/right arrows) in the controller section (Controller 1) and select one of the T500RS presets then click load. Then map your buttons (throttle, steering, pitlane speedlimiter, etc.).

- Force Feedback Strength = 75% for now (you can raise this later if desired). If the FFB strength is defaulted to a negative value upon loading the T500RS presets then continue using a negative value (e.g. -75%).

- FFB Effects = Low (can raise this later if desired for more effects like (e.g.) engine vibrations but low will give you the cleanest and purest FFB.)

- Graphical Steering Wheel Range = 540 degrees. This setting does not affect your actual wheel or the game's physics - at all. It is only purely for graphical reasons so the game's visual steering wheel matches the rotation of your real-life wheel. You can set this to (e.g.) 300 degrees or 900 degrees and it won't make the slightest bit of difference to your physical wheel or the game's physics. Strictly graphical!

Controller 2 Section:

- Speed Sensitivity = 0% (always use 0% if using a steering wheel)

- All other settings make no difference to wheel and pedals, they are only there for graphics (like head movement) or for buttons (.e.g.) using the keyboard for your brake pedal

Controller 3 Section:

- Sensitivity = 50% for all (can change this later if desired)

- Deadzone = 0% for all (can change this later if desired)

Stock Car Extreme In-Game Steering Lock Settings
Once you've selected a car and loaded a session, click on the garage button and, from there, change the steering lock of the car to around 23 degrees. 23 degrees is the steering lock of the actual in-game car itself regardless of what you set in your wheel's control panel's steering rotation setting. 540 degrees of your actual steering wheel rotation is a good general match for a car with 23 degrees of lock (you can adjust this later if desired).

Here is a link with more recommended steering wheel rotation settings and in-game steering lock settings --> http://www.racedepartment.com/threa...-steering-wheel-for-stock-car-extreme.100889/ (under the second section called "Setting up the correct steering ratio "

Time to Drive
Now press "race" and pull out of your pit stall. If the FFB is helping you turn - and wanting to forcefully keep turning all he way until it physically can't anymore - rather than resisting you as you turn the wheel then go back to the controls section and slide the FFB strength slider to the opposite value (e.g. 75% instead of -75%, or vice-versa). If you don't experience this then you should be ready to go drive one of the most amazing racing games/sims around :)


Take a look here--> for more info http://www.racedepartment.com/threa...-steering-wheel-for-stock-car-extreme.100889/


P.S. In the controls section, don't forget to save your controller file!
Thanks for this, @Spinelli. I did as you instructed and the FFB feels great. I may raise the overall strength of the FFB a bit but it's fantastic now as is.
 
Thanks for this, @Spinelli. I did as you instructed and the FFB feels great. I may raise the overall strength of the FFB a bit but it's fantastic now as is.
You're very welcome. The reason I started at "only" 75% for overall in-game FFB forces is because the T500RS control panel's overall strength is raised (72% instead of 60%) so I may have been a bit conservative with the in-game's 75% since I don't own a T500RS anymore. I would adjust the in-game FFB strength in 3-5 % increments. You can really feel a difference between 75%, 80%, 85%, etc.
 
dear all
in my side i solved the problem of "games doesn't start"

viewed many times in many forum and that happens to me

gsc.exe appear in task list then disappears ... no error message, nothing

I removed my profile file (xxx.PLR) in user data and the game starts again

hope it could help !
 
Pretty much everything I wrote for the other wheels but for the CSW v2. My settings discussed here are based on default controller.ini and RealFeel.ini files, no editing. You can tune FFB files and this can have a big impact on everything regarding FFB but I wouldn't worry about that for now, if ever, as the default FFB in Stock Car Extreme is one of the absolute best in the industry and should please just about everyone.


Sen
Sensitivity is just the total amount of lock your wheel is physically able to turn. You set this whatever you want to in accordance with what you set the car's steering lock in the game's garage menu to. The steering lock in the game's garage menu (e.g. 30 degrees) is what the actual in-game car's tyres (or steering suspension or whatever) are able to turn and that will be spread over your real-life wheel's lock (e.g. 900 degrees). I'd say 900 degrees on your wheel and 27-33 degrees of in-game car is good. Some cars (e.g. karts) aren't capable of more than 20 or so degrees of lock, so for those cars you should definitely lower your real-life steering rotation or the steering will be too slow (not sensitive enough) while driving.

Dri
Dift @ 3. 0/off, 1, and 2 basically artificially slow down the wheel and make it more dead and slower to respond and such while settings 4 and 5 do the opposite and artificially speed up the wheel to the point where it sometimes feels like the wheel is UN-resisting you as you turn - almost like the FFB is helping you turn (as if you had your FFB reversed) rather than resisting you. "3" is the only option for me as it's apparently the true "off" - the pure wheel only (or as close to it as possible). There where a few times with the karts when I used 4 for a bit for some more lively and reactive steering but I could feel the weirdness from the artificially sped-up FFB as it sometimes acted like I had the FFB reversed and the wheel was clearly ignoring the game's FFB and doing it's own thing. Set DRI to 3 for any and all games and leave it at that (unless of course if Fanatec changes the naming/numbering system in a future driver/firmware update).

FF
100%, anything lower doesn't lower the FFB, what it does it leaves the FFB the same but completely cuts off the top. For example, setting FF to 80% means forces from 0-80% are no different than before but any forces over 80% are completed cut off and not sent to you or muted if you want to think of it that way. So FF @ 100%.

For
100%, you can increase this if you want. I believe what it does is just compresses all the forces more. It may boost all forces but the maximum force the wheel is capable of outputing doesn't get increased with FOR over 100%. So basically the entire range of forces get increased in power (but the actual max FFB output of the wheel doesn't get increased). That's what it seems like from my testing at-least.

The Rest
Shock, ABS, spring, damper, linearity, deadzone, all off unless you use shock and ABS for some sort of vibration functions like through Fanaleds or SLIMaxManager or whatever then obviously keep shock and ABS enabled but if you use those programs/features than you would already know this, if not then you most likely don't need them and therefore disable them.


Fanatec ClubSport v2 Settings:
Sen = according to car and your preference
FF = 100%
Sho = 0%/off
ABS = 0%/off
Lin = 0%/off
Dea = 0%/off
Dri = 3
For = 100%
Spr = 0%/off
Dpr = 0%/off


Fanatec Control Panel Damper Setting

I read from somebody that you should leave dampening @ 100% in the Fanatec control panel even though you set it to 0%/off in the wheel's onboard menu or else the wheel is unable to output any damping forces that the game tries to send you. I'm not sure if this is true or not but you can experiment. Try 0% and then 100% and don't forget to keep damper in your wheel's onboard settings (Dpr) @ 0%/off.


In-game FFB - About 80% and "Low" but Read Below!
I like to use as much FFB as I can to take advantage of what my wheel is capable of wheel as best as I can and feel everything as much as possible; plus, it's so much more fun, alive, and immersive this way therefore I tend to use around 80% in most cars. I sometimes use 90%, in-fact I usually try to use 90% first but I sometimes feel that the forces many be getting clipped at 90%. When using 90% and driving the Brazilian V8 Stock Cars, it sometimes feels like the FFB is being clipped once I start adding more and more steering lock going into a turn, sometimes I even get the feeling at 86%. Remember though, each car can be different but I haven't felt the need to ever go any lower than high 70s to low 80s with any car. So I'd say 75-90% for just about anything as a general rule if you're looking to get the most out of your wheel without clipping.
 
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HI Spinelli, I set up my T300GTE as per your recommendation, and it works fine.
My only comment would be that has a bit of a slack feeling in the centre and the steering feels quite light and not as firm as I would like. Have I missed anything obvious here?
EDIT: tested PCars which had a very firm centre if that makes any difference
 
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Some abit weird things I noticed with my DFGT - they might not be issues, but better be sure I guess.

1. In some cars the ffb feels too strong - in profiler I have the usual 100,0,0,0, and ingame i have to drop it all the way to -60 or -50 for metalmoro, -70 for petrobas and v8 cars. Even there it reacts very sharply to road modulations and makes earthquakes over the whole table...

2. Tyre self-centering is very weak. Tried drifting abit with the superkarts at kansai, and I have to hold the wheel with 2 fingers, otherwise the car wont stabilize itself or I will over-correct. At the same time the road bumps, rumblestrips and turning resistance are felt very strongly. In all cars, its very easy to lose it and snap oversteer, and not feel it before it starts happening... that might be issue with my driving tho, who knows.
 
s2173, the over-correction can partly be because of FFB, but remember, games/sims don't have perfect, god-given physics (obviously you know this already so please don't take it offensively) and therefore this characteristic is also partly due to that general characteristic being inherent to the physics engine (regardless of car). You just have to kind of get used to it and save the car according to what the physics want. When saving a slide in game, you usually want to return the steering back to centre earlier and quicker than naturally seems. It's just the way the particular physics engine behaves in those situations; you can't hold a slip angle and a steering correction angle in the same way as reality - the "holding" part doesn't exist much in-game but rather more of just a quick save (initial correction) and then quickly back to centre. Think of it as a more snapish save-then-return-to-centre rather than save, then sort of hold the slide's angle and the steering, and then finally return to centre as the car gets back in line.

Once you get used to that and drive the sim the way it wants to be driven then that should really help you. Just remember, after the initial correction to save the slide, return the steering back to centre earlier and quicker than it naturally feels like, and also don't try to hold the steering and the angle of the slide - in game it's more of an initial correction and then straighten wheel out again, the middle part of holding the slide's angle as you wait for the slide to slow down, settle, and start getting back in line doesn't exist as much as real life.
 
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Hey guys, just an idea but, when someone fiddles around with the realfeel plugin and hasn't backup'ed the original file first. It might be good to have the original file somewhere here to download. Not that I just did this.... -_- haha

If your install is non-Steam, running GSC Sync should redownload the file for you. If it's on Steam, try verifying the integrity of game cache (right-click the game, select "Properties".
 
They might be adjusting but you may not know.

Hopefully now that Reiza has the rights to the core/base coding of the software itself, they can integrate Realfeel right into the game so we can have a menu on screen with all 9 or 10 Realfeel variables visible and adjustable (with obviously a default button that puts the particular car back to it's default). You can make large differences in feel with Realfeel.

Hopefully Reiza can also include a clipping meter like the ones you can use in iRacing, Assetto Corsa, and rFactor 2. I think the Brazilian V8 Stock Car software clips at around 80 or 90% because I feel like it's clipping but I know my actually wheel is physically capable of outputting more force/torque so it seems like software clipping.
 
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