How to get better at rFactor?

[MotorsportBoy97]

Hi, I really am bad at rFactor, All the time I just spin out exiting corners (From wheel spin) and I don't feel connected to the rear wheel at all. I'm using a Logitech Driving Force GT and would like some tips for better feel from the rear tyres or some setup help to make the rear tires not spin up or feel less nervous in slow speed corner.

I can complete multiple laps without spinning but I am painfully slow (Compared to other driver in the rFactor league) and usually loose the bulk of my time on the exit of corners. I have tried setup guides like 'Setup Matrix' and other ones similar but I just cant get the car to respond the way I want it to

Thanks in Advance
MotorsportBoy97

 

[Bruce Leeroy]

My basic tip would be install either G.I.D or TVSTYLE display then make the throttle and brake overlays very large then gauge on acceleration whats too much power to put down exiting a corner then you will have a feel where your foot is on the accelerator and have a visual guide too, you might find a point with your accelerator where your balancing good acceleration against spinning out...and work on correct timing for your downshifts

 

[MotorsportBoy97]

These are some good tips guys, pretty much what I was hoping for. If you have any others please share

 

[Paul Brennan]

The chances are you are probably pulling a lower gear per corner than what is needed ..my advice is lower the sensitivity of your accel axis in controls, use max rear wing, and if gear ratios are change able make them longer as in shuffle them to the right ...this helps to control power delivery until u get more comfortable. ..also thats a difficult mod even for experienced simracers...another tip is widen your steering so inputs are less dramatic..for eg if u use 360 wheel of steer try 14 degree lock in game.. goodluck

 

[SmashingPants67]

Try to lower the ride's height too

 

[theravenousbeast]

I haven't driven rFactor but I can recommend this; google FEELS REAL G25 FFB for rFactor and follow the instruction. Gives a better feel for the weight transfer of the car. Other tip would be to up the volume on the tire skidding. Finally I'd recommend you first drive a more forgiving car, something with less than 300HP, either FWD or RWD. In my experience, driving FWD helped me become more smooth with both the throttle and steering application. In addition, the FFB with the mod above comes from the front wheels only which in FWD is basically all you need.

 

[MotorsportBoy97]

you guys are really helping, my only problem now is the car isn't turning in, its getting harder for me to find the apex.

 

[theravenousbeast]

you guys are really helping, my only problem now is the car isn't turning in, its getting harder for me to find the apex.

When you brake for a corner you should notice that the front of the car dips down and the rear becomes light. This means that the weight of the car has transferred forward. More weight\load to the front tires means more front grip BUT only to a certain point, after which you can lock up the wheels. This here is why FFB is so important: you'll need to learn to feel this weight transfer and use it to your advantage. So: going into the corner you start to brake; you'll do most of the braking in a straightline but when you start to turn in the corner don't let go off the brake completely. Instead let go of the brake parallel to the additional steering you put on the wheel. If you did it right at the apex the car will be in a neutral position and "set" - meaning ready to start accelerating for the exit.

You may need to move the brake bias to do this: I start off with most cars at 54 front 46 rear but some car may need more: Porsches may require at least 60 front, some BMWs and similar cars 57-58 front.

This is the hardest part to learn and you'll need to practice. A good track IMO to learn this would be Donington; specifically the section from Redgate to McLean's require this to get fastest laptimes.

Finally, I know this was for rFactor but if you own GTR2 it might be a good idea to run through the Driving School tutorial in the game.

Good luck.

 

[MotorsportBoy97]

When you brake for a corner you should notice that the front of the car dips down and the rear becomes light. This means that the weight of the car has transferred forward. More weight\load to the front tires means more front grip BUT only to a certain point, after which you can lock up the wheels. This here is why FFB is so important: you'll need to learn to feel this weight transfer and use it to your advantage. So: going into the corner you start to brake; you'll do most of the braking in a straightline but when you start to turn in the corner don't let go off the brake completely. Instead let go of the brake parallel to the additional steering you put on the wheel. If you did it right at the apex the car will be in a neutral position and "set" - meaning ready to start accelerating for the exit.

You may need to move the brake bias to do this: I start off with most cars at 54 front 46 rear but some car may need more: Porsches may require at least 60 front, some BMWs and similar cars 57-58 front.

This is the hardest part to learn and you'll need to practice. A good track IMO to learn this would be Donington; specifically the section from Redgate to McLean's require this to get fastest laptimes.

Finally, I know this was for rFactor but if you own GTR2 it might be a good idea to run through the Driving School tutorial in the game.

Good luck.

Thanks, I did have GTR2 in the past and I did all the tutorials and stuff which did help. I'm glad you said Donnington because I know that track pretty well as its my closest track, Also are you basically saying to do a sort of 'Trail braking' technique?

 

[theravenousbeast]

Thanks, I did have GTR2 in the past and I did all the tutorials and stuff which did help. I'm glad you said Donnington because I know that track pretty well as its my closest track, Also are you basically saying to do a sort of 'Trail braking' technique?

Yes, trailbraking, I mentioned everything but the name . It took me quite some time to learn it but you can cut down on your laptimes by quite a bit and help overcome some cars that are more difficult to drive.

 

[MotorsportBoy97]

Yes, trailbraking, I mentioned everything but the name . It took me quite some time to learn it but you can cut down on your laptimes by quite a bit and help overcome some cars that are more difficult to drive.

Thanks, I have a chance to try this tomorrow so fingers crossed I can be slightly more competetive

 

[Jeffry in t Veld]

Something that also helps is knowing the track inside out, so you can push it further every lap.

 

[Decenten]

Your could also keep the revs up in the f1 2014 car. The turbo makes the car spin occassionally due to turbo lag when you put the throttle down and then all of a sudden there is lots of power and the rears lose traction and then you spin. Also try to get the car into 3rd gear before putting full throttle as third gear is the safest gear on most corners.

 

[MotorsportBoy97]

My main problem now is probably locking the brakes. I set my brake bias to 53:47 and Brake Pressure to 80% yet I'm still locking up. would lowering the front anti roll bar have an effect? if not what can I do to stop it?

 

[Bruce Leeroy]

Hi again, If the "engine brake map" setting is allowed in the mod/s your using try the highest setting allowed (although i haven't played in some time it might even be the lowest setting that helped me). As I said above I found having a large visible brake/accelerator meter helpful to find good points of acceleration/braking pressure related to my real world peddles and foot position/pressure that was needed.

I always found it nice to have a bit of positive throttle under braking, which is what I think the "engine brake map" setting allows, it adds engine revs under braking without you having to press the throttle but you can still press the throttle and increase the effect. (similar principle to left foot braking).

 

[MotorsportBoy97]

Thanks, that makes sense to me, are you saying like the engine is braking so engine revs will be lower? so a lower Brake map means higher revs? might need to get the Brake Map sorted cos the cars turbo kicks in and then suddenly a burst of extra revs.

 

[Bruce Leeroy]

AFAIK it only comes into play under braking and it should add/remove some engine revs whilst your off throttle and braking with the highest amount of revs allowed by the engine brake map setting in Factor...maybe the lowest setting is the idle of the engine as default or maybe as you say it drops the revs providing some inertia. Just found an article on wikipedia.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_braking

 

[David O'Reilly]

Engine brake map sets how aggressively the engine will slow the car with downshifts.
The lower the number the more engine braking and the more careful you have to be of an early downshift locking your rear wheels.

Brake Bias, by moving this as far to the rear without locking rear wheels will let the fronts turn and point better.

Neither of the above have any impact on corner exit.
However you cant have a good exit without a good entry.

Diff lock (more) makes the car go straighter. On power side it does it on power, on coast side it does it on coast. However too much will make it harder to turn.

Walter Rohrl came up with a lovely metaphor: imagine a piece of string from the bottom of your wheel to your right big toe. You can only wind on power as you wind off lock.

Be smooth and progressive on throttle and uipshift early in lower gears they will spin the wheels more. There is also less aero in slower corners.

Get you line right. Its one thing to apex its another to apex on the right line.
Try with a really late apex and move it 2 metres earlier each time till your exit is compromised.
Or put another way try later apexes, it sounds like they might be early and making the exit line too tight. (all discussed in Skip Barber above).

Be aware of fore aft weight shift.
As someone above said learn some more in a slower car.

Someone posted the skip barber video above. Watch it till you know it by heart its very good.

 

[MotorsportBoy97]

Engine brake map sets how aggressively the engine will slow the car with downshifts.
The lower the number the more engine braking and the more careful you have to be of an early downshift locking your rear wheels.

Brake Bias, by moving this as far to the rear without locking rear wheels will let the fronts turn and point better.

Neither of the above have any impact on corner exit.
However you cant have a good exit without a good entry.

Diff lock (more) makes the car go straighter. On power side it does it on power, on coast side it does it on coast. However too much will make it harder to turn.

Walter Rohrl came up with a lovely metaphor: imagine a piece of string from the bottom of your wheel to your right big toe. You can only wind on power as you wind off lock.

Be smooth and progressive on throttle and uipshift early in lower gears they will spin the wheels more. There is also less aero in slower corners.

Get you line right. Its one thing to apex its another to apex on the right line.
Try with a really late apex and move it 2 metres earlier each time till your exit is compromised.
Or put another way try later apexes, it sounds like they might be early and making the exit line too tight. (all discussed in Skip Barber above).

Be aware of fore aft weight shift.
As someone above said learn some more in a slower car.

Someone posted the skip barber video above. Watch it till you know it by heart its very good.

Thanks, this helped me a lot.