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Good base settings all cars all surfaces

Discussion in 'RBR Setups' started by Nigel Atkins, Jun 23, 2011.

  1. Not sure on the origin of these setups, but cudos to who ever did them :D

    Tarmac France (Arbroz, JV, JP, Bisanne)
    - Stiffness Front 80 / Rear 70
    - Helper Length 40 to 50 mm
    - Bump Front 6.0 / Rear 4.0
    - Rebound Front 8.0 / Rear 5.5
    - Fast Bump Front 4.0 / Rear 3.5
    - Camber -3.00 to -4.00
    - Toe Front -0.20 / Rear -0.50 to -0.80
    - Ride height from 170 to 185
    - Reduce Antiroll bar 10
    - Brakes front 9000 / Rear 1500

    Tarmac Mixed (Pribram, PTD Rallysprint)
    - Stiffness Front 70 / Rear 60
    - Helper Length 50 to 60 mm
    - Bump Front 6.0 / Rear 5.0
    - Rebound Front 7.0 / Rear 5.0
    - Fast Bump Front 5.0 / Rear 4.0
    - Camber -3.00 to -4.00
    - Toe Front -0.20 / Rear -0.50 to -0.80
    - Ride height from 185 to 200
    - Reduce Antiroll bar 15
    - Brakes front 9000 / Rear 1500

    Mid Bumpy Tarmac (Falstone, Greenhills, Mineshaft etc ...)
    - Stiffness Front 60 / Rear 50
    - Helper Length 60 to 70 mm
    - Bump Front 6.0 / Rear 6.0
    - Rebound Front 6.0 / Rear 4.5
    - Fast Bump Front 7.0 / Rear 8.0
    - Camber -3.00 to -4.00
    - Toe Front -0.20 / Rear -0.50 to -0.80
    - Ride height from 180 to 190
    - Reduce Antiroll bar 15
    - Brakes front 9000 / Rear 1500

    Bumpy Tarmac (Fraizer Wells, Harwood, Tanner etc. ...)
    - Stiffness Front 50 / Rear 40
    - Helper Length 70 to 100 mm
    - Bump Front 6.0 / Rear 7.0
    - Rebound Front 4.5 / Rear 3.5
    - Fast Bump Front 8.0 / Rear 9.5
    - Camber -1.50 to -3.00
    - Toe Front -0.20 / Rear -0.50 to -0.80
    - Ride height from 185 to 200
    - Reduce Antiroll bar 10
    - Brakes front 9000 / Rear 1500

    Smooth Gravel and Smooth Snow (Falstone, Greenhills, Mineshaft etc ...)
    - Stiffness Front 60 / Rear 40
    - Helper Length 60 to 70 mm
    - Bump Front 5.0 / Rear 6.0
    - Rebound Front 7.0 / Rear 6.0
    - Fast Bump Front 6.5 / Rear 7.5
    - Camber -0.80 to -1.50
    - Toe Front -0.12 / Rear -0.30 to -0.50
    - Ride height from 190 to 210
    - Reduce Antiroll bar 15 to 25
    - Brakes front 7000 / Rear 3000

    Bumpy Gravel and Bumpy Snow ((Fraizer Wells, Harwood, Tanner etc. ...)
    - Stiffness Front 50 / Rear 30
    - Helper Length 70 to 80 mm
    - Bump Front 6.0 / Rear 7.0
    - Rebound Front 7.0 / Rear 6.0
    - Fast Bump Front 7.0 / Rear 8.0
    - Camber -0.70 to -1.20
    - Toe Front -0.12 / Rear -0.30 to -0.50
    - Ride height from 200 to 220
    - Reduce Antiroll bar 15 to 20
    - Brakes front 6500 / Rear 3000
    • Like Like x 1
  2. wow thx will try it out for sure as I am complete newbie with setting my car ;(
  3. thanks for setupping info. i want to ask what should be done in setups:
    1. under wet conditions (tarmac and gravel) which we need more traction getting away from slow corners for fwd cars with too much power?
    2. for tarmac stages converted from gravel (mainly australian) with lots of dust, that throws the back end without any warning?
  4. 2. Maybe more ride height, then adjust rear suspension. Maybe car is just too low for those stages?
  5. Erm... I just tried changing settings, and while I was searching which setup option is what(German->English), I wasn't sure about some things:

    - Camber and Toe can't be changed directly? In the geometry area, I could change the upper 4 settings which influenced the 4 on the bottom. Is that so, or am I missing something?

    - Ride Height, is that also under Geometry? Or was the length of the springs meant?

    I am not good at setups and it gets a bit messy when you have to translate technical stuff from German to English or the other way:p

    The German labeling for the Anti-rollbar(ARB) seems to be poor. I got "Überrollbügel" in RBR, but it should be written "Stabilisator", because "Überrollbügel" means the rollcage lol(Fail?)!

    Other German->English translations in RBR Setup Menu:

    Stiffness -> Federhärte
    Helper Length -> Zusatzfederlänge
    Bumper -> Stoss
    Rebound -> Rückprall
    Fast Bump -> Schnellstoss
    Camber -> Sturz
    Toe -> Spur
    Ride Height -> Bodenfreiheit
  6. Warren Dawes

    Warren Dawes
    Premium Member

    A few things can change the Camber, but the main one is the Wheel Axis Inclination (Angle).
    Unfortunately, with no telemetry available in RBR, it's not easy to fine tune this.

    A couple of ways to alter ride height.
    Strut Platform Height is the easiest.
    Also, Spring Length and Spring Stiffness will have an influence on Ride Height.
  7. Manuel De Samaniego

    Manuel De Samaniego
    3X Race Department Rally Champion

    I was searching about this yesterday and I found this document in Rallyesim, the author is papy jim, I don't know who translated them to English though. You can download the original in French here:

  8. tryid these on tarmac only tonight.. wouldnt say that they are so much better than the default ones in my DS3, but there are few things that made car feel better.. not all of them definetly. and on stages like pribram i bet i can get dampers to handle the big ruts and bumbs better than those. but you definetly should try these and make you changes from there!
    • Agree Agree x 1
  9. Thank you for your feedback Tommi.
    I will try them. Untill now, on gravel, I don't have a good setup. I hope it will make my driving experience better (I need more grip & stability)

    Regarding the default setup, I think they are really bad. The car handling isn't good, it's like driving a car in cardboard.
  10. I recently tried the bumpy tarmac settings on Semetin2009 (and other Czech stages) and the France tarmac settings. For me, with the 2010 Focus, the bumpy settings on the Czech stages were a huge improvement over default settings. I can attack corners now instead of coasting through them hoping I don't lose grip. The overall feel of the car when going over bumpy surfaces is great now.

    On the other hand, with the France settings, I've seen marginal improvement compared to my times with default settings on the French stages. One thing I have noticed is hairpins feel a little bit easier/quicker using the above settings. Will try out some of the gravel settings this weekend.

    I really appreciate these settings and anyone else that tries to help people with setups. I understand what many of the settings do, but I'm no car guy. It seems that there could be multiple ways to achieve the same effect. So, trying to think about tinkering with one setting over another or a combination of settings is quite daunting (and that's not even mentioning the differential settings!). So thank you to the guys with the knowledge.
  11. I did have a question regarding spring length. If you change the spring length, should you adjust the helper length by the same amount?
  12. Hey guys, if i make these setups, will they be there when i boot RSRBR 2014?
  13. No.

    The spring length and rate set the ride height.
    The helper spring rate and length affect at which suspension travel the helper spring will actually be activated.
    Basically, if you change the helper spring length without changing the minimum helper spring length you will screw the geometry, at least what the values shown in the setup editor are concerned.
    So you will not get what you see in the end.
    Means your toe/camber/caster etc. values are not accurate anymore.

    Generally I am not a friend of "good base settings for all cars" cause its kind of ridiculous.
    The spring and damper settings should be based on vehicle weight, location of the CG (=static weight distribution), motion ratios of the suspension etc. etc.

    But maybe all cars in RSRBR have the same weight and dimensions and suspension geometry ... I dunno.
  14. what i love about setups is: I messed with them for the first 2 years, a little tweak here a little tweak there. Then after a month or so tried the silly default setup and it was usually better then my tweaked setup.

    I do like the base setup above, but only as a base from where I can stumble through the dark art of suspenders and dampness creating my own uniquely fecked-up undrivable car. It does put me at a a disadvantage having a car that is setup by an idiot, but I do like a challenge...
  15. I loathe cars in general, so I was glad that the tarmac mixed setup worked a treat on stages like Hradek and Liptakov in Czech Plugin (Impreza N14 URT). It was about time I tested that setup, because over the years I've been - perhaps unfairly - bashing Sourek's stages secretly in my mind for being overly tricky and impossible to enjoy.
  16. So, it's best not to touch helper settings when messing with setups?

    Yeah, the settings are hit and miss, at least for me. There's only been a few stages between gravel and tarmac where I've seen any improvement. At the very least, they give me something to compare to the default settings and modify more (and hopefully better).