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General Setup Discussion

Discussion in 'Formula Truck Setups' started by Stefan Mizzi, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. Can we please create a section for setups?

    I'm really struggling with grip and hopefully some nice and beautiful souls here will share their great setups and then, maybe I'll be able to be 1.5 seconds away compared to the current 5 seconds slower per lap :confused:

    Cheers :D
  2. Matej Lakota

    Matej Lakota
    Sriple Tix Premium

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  3. I think there are no so much secrets to share: wings are fixed, there isn't a 3rd wing and diffuser, diff is lock. Personally I put some weight more on the back and adjust camber, -0.5 toe in. I think the secret is in our right foot, try to use it properly "driving" the truck with it and we dont' have to steering too much and burning front tyres loosing grip
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  4. Guess you're right, I'm loosing front grip and burning tires, guess I need to use the right foot properly.

  5. Pretty much this. I also usually loosen rear spring and take all packers off. That seems to give a bit more stable rear. According to Motec you can't do much with the suspension anyways.

    More than anything clean driving lines is the key with these trucks.
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  6. opss. edit when you were writing

    "try to use it properly "driving" the truck with it"

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  7. Best tip I got from Rhijs for interlagos is set the brake bias to 63:37 and stiffen the rear anti-roll bar by a click or two,it makes the truck turn in better,it makes the truck a bit twisty when you brake to hard but its ok when you pump brake.
    biggest mistake I made is to brake to late overshoot the apex and getting into trouble in the follow up of the turn,and check if your steering sensitivity slider (options-controller 2) is set to zero that helps a lot :)
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  8. Marco Bijl

    Marco Bijl
    adMAXIhater (O.O.O.)

    Stefan Mizzi,
    I reported your post, to see if we can make such a forum piece.
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  9. Bram

    Ezekiel 25:17 Staff Premium

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  10. I found disconnecting the front ARB helps turn in!
  11. You get the same effect by stiffening rear ARB. Just try to find good balance between front and rear. I use 10 front 40 rear. In general, more front = understeer, more rear = oversteer.
  12. Thanks guys reading this and making some changes really made it more fun to drive
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  13. A commenter posted on VirtualR some good base changes for the setup of these trucks: Move weight distribution and brake bias rearward (brake bias 63:37 was the recommended value), and bring rear ARB up by a click or two, or front ARB down by a click or two. I've found that these work very well and can be fine tuned by varying spring strength. I haven't experimented much with damper settings though.

    A big part of being quick in these trucks is down to your driving. I've found that I don't "drive" them as such, more like I co-operate with them! I'll just copy-paste some (slightly edited) tips I posted in a racing club thread to clarify.

    The most effective way I've found to drive these things is to work with them and to know when to be gentle and when to push. Brake early and brake hard. In my experience, the brakes are almost impossible to lock on the default setting. Often you'll find that you think you have slowed down too much for a corner, only to find that you can just make it through. So always slow down a little bit more than what you think is required, and turn in early.
    These things will understeer on entry at least slightly, no matter what you do to the setup - so make sure you take care on entry, and if the rear end kicks out a little bit under braking, roll with it! Be ready to apply opposite lock at any moment, and if you time your recovery from a slide right, you will turn into the corner and be pointing right at the apex, allowing you to get on the throttle a little earlier.
    Giving the throttle a little more stick on the exit of a corner also helps, as these things demand that you powerslide out of corners. A bit of sliding and enough opposite lock at the right time will give you a much better speed down straights than if you just crept onto the power like in a V8 Supercar.
    Also take advantage of the torque these things have. I only go down into 3rd gear in the tight hairpins - staying in 4th in most corners (and short shifting to 5th in some cases) means a smoother exit and less time lost to lifting on upshifts.
    Finally, sometimes using the full rev range of these trucks is not always the best thing to do. Someone (I think it was oppolo?) posted a graph of the Volvo's torque and power curves somewhere in the forum, and that's what I used to try and get the best out of the engine. Be careful, as if you rev too high, the engine will overheat very quickly!
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  14. I use pretty much the same setup on every track. So far I follow what others have already discussed here, only I use less of a front brake bias. I keep mine around 67%. However, I stiffen the rear ARB quite a bit more. In some cases up to 50 or even 60. I also softer the front ARB to 10 and I always choose the longer gears.

    I have tried messing with the springs and dampers, but I always came back to the default settings. the ARB seem to have the best, more controllable effect.

    As far as driving them, once you have a stiff rear ARB you simply have to overcome the fear of accelerating early. You can control your turn with the gas, but you need to get on iot very early to do that, otherwise once the front starts oversteering, the turn is almost always lost.
  15. Thank you guys! I followed your tips by lowering front ARB, increasing rear, set brake balance to 66:34 and put highest gear ratio......result...2 seconds faster per lap!

    So what I am doing is when I am in corner, I tap the accelerator to even the truck more and the ARB helped in getting less under steer.

    Still struggling a bit with braking, and I'm sure I'm 1 to 2 seconds away from you guys but at least not 5 seconds :redface:

  16. Yes, I posted Volvo torque curve

    For brake I use 100% brake pressure and a BIAS around 55-58. Very important is to set well brake duct size, if the braking starts with cold brakes than we will have a sudden increase of brake power and so we'll have difficult to controll the truck in this phase, for my experience it seems the optimum temp would be more or less in the range 300-600 degrees

    9 liters engines have maximum torque at lower RPM so with these trucks there are some hairpin we can go with 4th gear instead of 12 and 14 liters they have to go in 3th.

    Regulation seeks to match performance among these trucks changing thear weights, yesterday night I was so surprised of the same times with FC: 668Kw@3500 2783Nm@1800 4160 Kg and Manhb 937Kw@3300 3528@2200 4930 Kg

  17. Hello guys, thanks for the clarification on the subject,
    I had great progress in management and setup of the trucks. But please post some truck setups for us, I would like to test them and compare them with my setups. Certainly I do not get 1/10 of what you guys understand.
  18. Definately bring the brake bias further back, that way you can initiate a slide as you hit the apex with trailbraking and then further rotate the truck using throttle.
  19. I have moved brake bias, weight distribution all the way back, and also disassembled front anti-roll bar.Rear anti-roll bar i mostly set at 60. Brake pressure 100. This is my base setup on all trucks for some trucks it take a couple laps to get the (feeling) i search for but on the Scania it is very good.
    Well thats the base i use and it´s very enjoyable for me. I do not tinker anything with toe in and camber as of yet but if i find something out i will post.:)
  20. Exactly the same base set ups i use mate! I also adjust steering lock to 18 degrees and have a bit of toe in, I set front tyre pressures to 420 aswell though i dont know what affects this will all have on tyre wear over a race distance, Im currently mucking about with castor and camber aswell. I use Curitiba to practice as its a good mix of straights and corners!
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