F1 2012 G27 vs DFGT: Advice needed

F1 2012 The Game (Codemasters)

Chris

Premium
Hey guys I am just looking for some advice on a new wheel.

I am currently using the Thrustmaster GT Ferrari Experience, (not the best wheel, i know, but i bought it just to get started, as it was cheap and has a good button layout) and it's starting to break down, the gear shifters have lost their *click*, and the wheel alignment pulls the car slightly to the left when it's held straight.

I'm tossing up between the Logitech G27 and the Driving Force GT.
I currently have enough money for the DFGT, but i was wondering if it is worth it to save for longer and get the G27.

I really just want a good quality wheel for when Assetto Corsa comes out.

I know that they both have their pros and cons (albeit the DFGT has far more cons relative to the G27):
Like i've heard that the paddle shifters on the DFGT are too small and hard to reach, and the foot pedals dont look too great.
However, the G27 looks amazing quality, with great pedals and shifters. However, the G27 is almost double in price. Here in Australia, the G27 retails for about $310-$330, while the DFGT costs about $120.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 
It's not that awesome actually, at least not in my case (and my DFGT).
I have a profile for Shift 2 with 500 degree lock and one F1 2012 with 230 degrees. Also, I set 500 in the global settings and SOMEHOW I get 500 degrees in F1 2012.
Maybe I screwed something up along the way in the settings, but at the moment I have to keep the global lock at 230 degrees.
 
It's not that awesome actually, at least not in my case (and my DFGT).
I have a profile for Shift 2 with 500 degree lock and one F1 2012 with 230 degrees. Also, I set 500 in the global settings and SOMEHOW I get 500 degrees in F1 2012.
Maybe I screwed something up along the way in the settings, but at the moment I have to keep the global lock at 230 degrees.
Very strange cause I've set my global to 270, f1 2012 to 360, gsc - 440, race 07 270 and I have no problems with that. They automacially change when I start the game.
 
It's not that awesome actually, at least not in my case (and my DFGT).
I have a profile for Shift 2 with 500 degree lock and one F1 2012 with 230 degrees. Also, I set 500 in the global settings and SOMEHOW I get 500 degrees in F1 2012.
Maybe I screwed something up along the way in the settings, but at the moment I have to keep the global lock at 230 degrees.
I have the same problem - sometimes profiler loses Steam games and load global settings (900 degree) even in the race. :) Because of that I manually set profile in the Options-Global Profiler Settings.
 
Do you use the" F12012.exe" or just the "Steam Launcher" in your F1 2012 Logitech Profile?

Make sure you´re using the F12012.exe, not the Steam Launcher, that could be the problem...
 
sometimes profiler loses Steam games and load global settings (900 degree) even in the race.
Wow, that's... extreme. My profiler at least behaves more predictably. In the menus the wheel stops when it reaches the rotation lock, but the moment a track loads up I can do a full 900 turn, only FFB's resistance fades away after crossing the lock.

Do you use the" F12012.exe" or just the "Steam Launcher" in your F1 2012 Logitech Profile?

Make sure you´re using the F12012.exe, not the Steam Launcher, that could be the problem...
Whaa? :O_o: Do you mean launching the game directly by F12012.exe instead of through Steam library?
 
Do you use the" F12012.exe" or just the "Steam Launcher" in your F1 2012 Logitech Profile?

Make sure you´re using the F12012.exe, not the Steam Launcher, that could be the problem...
Doesn't work for me - after some time get 900 degree in the game. :(
Wow, that's... extreme. My profiler at least behaves more predictably. In the menus the wheel stops when it reaches the rotation lock, but the moment a track loads up I can do a full 900 turn, only FFB's resistance fades away after crossing the lock.
Yeah, it's very funny, especially if I get 900 on the long straight and then try to turn. :D
 
@ the OP

I have both the DFGT and the G27.

The DFGT is a great starting wheel, and the biggest and most convenient thing about it is the available buttons actually on the wheel. Especially the DPAD and the 4 standard console buttons (Square, Circle, Triangle, Cross). The gear up and down paddles are not so good, because they are not actually paddles, just rocker switches. They are OK and usable, but function much better with the add-on Gran TurGismo Paddle Shifters. However, this adds another US$50 to the cost of your wheel.

The G27 is a much better wheel, has proper paddles, better pedals, plus the added clutch pedal. The DFGT has a sequential shift gearbox, and the G27 has a H box. You can modify the G27's H Box to make it act as a sequential if you want. The easiest method is by use of strong elastic bands.

Biggest pain with the G27 is having the DPAD and most buttons on the separate gearbox module. I am really just too busy with the gear change paddles, to be able to reach across and change fuel and brake balance settings fast enough, accurately enough, and often enough.

The good thing is that there is a way around it, by use of the XPadder program. I made a post or thread about it in this forum somewhere. Essentially I don't use the Logitech Profiler to program any buttons, just XPadder. The advantage of this is that I could bring the Manual H gearbox into play as additional 'buttons'. So the common most used features use the 6 buttons on the wheel, then I use the gearbox to for other functions. So Rich Mix might be on the wheel for fast selection, but Standard and Lean might be 1st gear & 2nd gear on the gearbox. My brake balance settings are on the gearbox too.

Changing a manual 'gear' once (as they are programmed cycling commands), is much easier than using the standard, DPAD UP, DPAD UP, DPAD UP, for example. When I really need that hand to rapidly climb up through the gearbox with the right paddle, I can't afford to faff around with the DPAD 3 times.

Anyway ......... er ....... G27 FTW, and DFGT FTB (For The Budget)

BTW I have the G27 now, because the left paddle switch on my DFGT started failing and double shifting after 18 months of use. During the 2 weeks it took to get the brand new replacement from Logitech (who were very helpful), I bought a G27.
 
Whaa? :O_o: Do you mean launching the game directly by F12012.exe instead of through Steam library?

Yap, nearly. when creating a New Profile inside the logitech profiler u have to select the F12012.exe. Steam will start automatically...

If nothing helps, there's another way... i always use 900 Degrees and the ingame saturation for calibration in F12012. BTW an quicker and safer way to change degree of rotation between different tracks, without alt+tab to desk what sometimes crashes my game...
 
Just the exe should do it too ....

Of course you could also set it as the persistent profile, the default. Then manually change it for other games.

I just set it at 540 and use that for all games - a tip I got from Bram Hengeveld. Takes getting used to, but is better in the long run. Most are GMotor-based so you can actually change the steering lock in your setup. And it works well with F1 2012.

Regarding the wheels, you made the right choice.

I have had both the DFPro and DFGT, and while they are awesome wheels for the price, the G27 just has the greatest pedals and gear shifters.

You can actually gauge how much you need to lift the throttle - as well as lift off the brakes when locking up. Unless buying one drives you into poverty, it will always be the right choice! ;)
 
Hey guys, my G27 just arrived in the post today, so i've set it up and everything, and i've calibrated it and what not. But im not sure if i've got the latest drivers, when i go onto Logitechs website, it only comes up with the latest software, but that could include the latest driver... im not sure.

anyway, onto the main point.

When i play F1 2012, the steering wheel gives a huge amount of juddering when i try to turn it. I've set the force feedback to 100% (in game) could that be why? Im used to the smoothness of the Ferrari GT experience, because that didnt have any motors in it.

Here's a screenshot of my F1 2012 profile, i used some tips from the G27 settings thread.
http://www.mediafire.com/?3ws8dcz31n7x0cs

Im not sure if im doing damage to it, i dont think i am. Or maybe im just not used to this amount of FFB.

Any help would be really appreciated!
 
I can only tell you my settings, and the fact that I like the wheel slightly on the heavy side, rather than light.

Windows automatically loads the correct usb drivers for this device, nothing special is needed driver-wise. Software, just get the latest 32/64 bit software for your operating system (Logitech Profiler Software) this is the 64 bit Win 8, the web page should auto-sense your system :-

http://www.logitech.com/en-us/support/g27-racing-wheel?crid=411&osid=23&bit=64

My Profiler settings for this game, I used to run the Overall Effects @ 107% for this wheel and my old DFGT, but have gone back to 98%. The idea behind the 107% setting is to stop the wheel going 'loose' or 'slack' in tight corners like hairpins, where high amounts of lock are used. Wheel rotation used to be @ 540 degrees, but I have now gone down to as close to 330 degrees as I can (327). I don't like crossing hands when driving, so this makes the wheel a bit more sensitive, but not 'twitchy'

profile.png



In game settings :-

The override input device is set to 'steering wheel', which should help stop that feeling of input lag.

f1-1.png


The brake saturation was accidentally knocked up to 1% when I took the screen shot, ignore it, it is set to 0%

f1-2.png



Force feedback is set to 30, 30, 20. I always used to go with 30, 30, 10

f1-3.png
 
Thanks Graham!

I'll give it a shot. I've seen videos on YouTube of people playing F1 2012 with it and it looks perfectly smooth, where as mine feels like I'm about to strip the cogs on the motors. I don't think I will, but it just feels a little wrong.

Also I noticed that when I spin out, the wheel automatically senses this, and goes to opposite lock, without me even touching it.
 
Also I noticed that when I spin out, the wheel automatically senses this, and goes to opposite lock, without me even touching it.

I have never heard or seen this sort of thing. Are you running with AIDS such as braking-assist, maybe that would effect the steering ....... I don't know.

Of course you are saying 'without even touching it' ....... when you should be touching it ;) :D
 
I have never heard or seen this sort of thing. Are you running with AIDS such as braking-assist, maybe that would effect the steering ....... I don't know.

Of course you are saying 'without even touching it' ....... when you should be touching it ;) :D
Oh... That's strange.
Yeah, when the car spins out, (I've tested this) the wheel goes into opposite lock. I let go of the wheel to see if it does it itself.

And no, I'm not running with any assists. :/

I don't really know why this is happening.
 

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