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PC FFB deadzone when wheel is straight!!

Discussion in 'Project CARS' started by Msportdan, May 8, 2015.

  1. Msportdan

    @ Simberia @Simberia

    ive noticed this on my t300. is there a setting that can bring ffb to a straight wheel.

    Best described here by another member.

    Not sure if this is the problem with every wheel (but from steam forms i think it is), but i found out the issue. I set ffb to 100 in both game and t500 control panel (only for testing what each force ingame does).
    I turned on the clipping tool (kinda a clipping tool) its under game options/ game/ HUD / clicked it over from: none/min/full/ telemetry. Once i had telemetry running a line graph appears on the upper left hand corner of your screen and lets you know when ffb is being sent to the wheel.

    This is when i found out the issue, with all the forces maxed the graph let me know that almost no forces where going to the wheel when driving in a straight line (wheel straight) but ohh baby did that change when i turned the wheel. The line started going all over the place (I felt the gear changes, some bumps, etc) but only when the wheel was at a angle. I took the car off road and with the wheel straight felt nothing 100 ffb set in game and nothing (crazy) and very little data was being sent to the wheel, but when the wheel is in any other position then straight the wheel is being sent all kinda info, i.e ffb. It seems that even with dead-zone set to zero in game their is still an artificial dead-zone with the wheel. I'm going to continue to play with this"
  2. Tobbe Bergman

    Tobbe Bergman
    @ Simberia @Simberia

  3. I found this extremely helpful, as I've had the same problem with my Fanatec CSWv2.
    Turning up the Fz has made a good bit of difference for me. And turning down the Fy, been working on getting the balance between them worked out. But I do get some feedback when the wheel is straight now at least.

    Official meanings
    General FFB strength
    Output strength of the FFB to the wheel after it has been calculated by the FFB engine. This is basically the final 'volume' adjustment of the FFB. This means that if the FFB is clipping, turning the FFB strength down won't help anymore.

    Tyre Force
    This is the strength of the tyre contribution to the FFB, which is also the main contributor to the FFB. If the FFB is too high or too low for all cars, you can adjust this value to get it equally stronger/weaker for all cars.

    The car-specific settings
    These you want to adjust when the FFB of one car is good while for the next car it's too weak or strong (or has a wrong subjective balance of the individual force contributors).

    Spindle Master Scale: this scales the forces below it equally up and down, i.e. it's the FFB 'volume knob' specifically for that car. Turn it down if the FFB is clipping, and up if it's too weak.
    Fx: this is the FFB component representing the longitudinal force on the tyre contact patch. This should determine FFB when accelerating or braking, but I haven't really experimented with this one yet.
    Fy: this is the FFB component representing the lateral force on the tyre contact patch. Very important for feeling mass transfer/inertia of the car when cornering.
    Fz: this is the FFB component representing the vertical force on the tyre contact patch. This plays an important part in the 'road feel' of the FFB, i.e. when going over bumps in the road.
    Mz: this is the FFB component representing the twisting force of the wheels, i.e. rotation along the vertical axis of the wheel. It is the self-aligning force of the wheels into the driving direction and is most important for getting the 'classic' feel of the FFB getting lighter when the front tyres lose grip.

    So when you want a particular force to stand out in the FFB, raise its relative contribution to the total FFB, and after that adjust the Spindle Master Scale value if necessary to get the FFB stay within the full range (i.e. not clipping or getting too weak).
    • Like Like x 4
  4. Thumbs up theresimon! Thanks for the info.

  5. Yeah, I have the CSR and im experiencing the same issue. Looking for fix.
  6. Kurupt CDN

    Kurupt CDN
    Touring car fanatic Premium

    Increase deadzone removal to .10 -.15 higher if needed
    • Beer Beer x 1
  7. Set your wheel to 540 degrees in Thrustmaster software, might be a good starting point
  8. Thanks, but that didt fix it. Still on straights I feel nothing, yet the wheel on screen is vibrating also if i turn just a bit i feel the bumps. but if i increase deadzone more the FFB starts klipping in turns.
  9. Msportdan

    @ Simberia @Simberia

    im at 540
  10. I think the only solution for now is playing AC, R3E or so :whistling:

    It´s not a steering dead zone issue, because driving straight over sand, curbs and grass you should feel a little. I think, it's just the game or does anybody have some roadfeel driving full straight?
  11. Msportdan

    @ Simberia @Simberia

    this helps this problem

    Deadzone Removal Range = 0.05-0.08 (depends on your preference)
  12. Yep, fully agree.
    I use 0.1 for my G27 and it's ok.