Fanatec wheel not up to the job

[gearwhine]

Hi, just looking for a little advice if possible. Bought a CLS dd 8nm around 6 months ago. The base unit is fine but my wheel is not up to the job and for the last few months gear selection has been unreliable. I chose the cheapest wheel in the range because i only use VR so wheel envy is not an issue with me. I believe the model is the P1 and it is just too flexible and has to be pulled or pushed from the side to regain gear connection and button selection. I constantly try screwing the qr tighter or removing to clean the contact pins with no luck plus i have nipped up every screw to try to fix it. I know i am under warrenty but i race several leagues and do not want to be without my wheel. Any advice is welcome if it means i am not without my wheel.

 

[Ruttman98]

You mention "gear selection," so it's a given you use paddle shifters, and--since you race in VR--I will assume you are reliant on mapping various functions to wheel buttons.

I wonder if the Fanatec CSW Universal Hub might be more robust for paddles and button function--it should be for the $! It has plenty of and can be paired with a standard 70mm PCD wheel.

I use an Ascher USB button plate with a Fanatec Podium Hub, metal QR, and a variety of wheel shapes and sizes on my CSW V. 2.5. An arrangement like this could be an option for racing on PC.

 

[GEO147]

Hi, just looking for a little advice if possible. Bought a CLS dd 8nm around 6 months ago. The base unit is fine but my wheel is not up to the job and for the last few months gear selection has been unreliable. I chose the cheapest wheel in the range because i only use VR so wheel envy is not an issue with me. I believe the model is the P1 and it is just too flexible and has to be pulled or pushed from the side to regain gear connection and button selection. I constantly try screwing the qr tighter or removing to clean the contact pins with no luck plus i have nipped up every screw to try to fix it. I know i am under warrenty but i race several leagues and do not want to be without my wheel. Any advice is welcome if it means i am not without my wheel.

Are all your firmwares up to date for base and wheel?

If yes and you don't want to RMA then you are left with only one option that being to try to fix it yourself. Is it a common issue and if so has anyone else fixed it themselves?
Would require opening the wheel up. Perhaps canotact Fanatec and ask if it is an easy fix. They might advise you to do this or that.

 

[gearwhine]

Are all your firmwares up to date for base and wheel?

If yes and you don't want to RMA then you are left with only one option that being to try to fix it yourself. Is it a common issue and if so has anyone else fixed it themselves?
Would require opening the wheel up. Perhaps canotact Fanatec and ask if it is an easy fix. They might advise you to do this or that.

Yes, all up to date. When you move the wheel from side to side the rim lcd display lights up with random digits. As you say, will probably take apart and try to tighten connections some how. Thanks for the input. There is nothing that i can find on this problem which does surprise me.

 

[gearwhine]

You mention "gear selection," so it's a given you use paddle shifters, and--since you race in VR--I will assume you are reliant on mapping various functions to wheel buttons.

I wonder if the Fanatec CSW Universal Hub might be more robust for paddles and button function--it should be for the $! It has plenty of and can be paired with a standard 70mm PCD wheel.

I use an Ascher USB button plate with a Fanatec Podium Hub, metal QR, and a variety of wheel shapes and sizes on my CSW V. 2.5. An arrangement like this could be an option for racing on PC.

The metal qr would be an improvement for sure but the wheel is not the best quality for the task asked of it i feel

 

[RasmusP]

Are you sure that it's not the wheelbase shaft causing the issues?
I heard from quite a few people that they had to re-adjust and re-tighten the shaft frequently or the steering wheels would lose connection.
The pins of the steering wheel are quite long and I never had any issue with my McLaren v2 with the same QR lite, although flexing like and even having some rotational slip that I had to fix with a little sheet of 100g printer paper along the sliding eh... long plastic stripes along the length of the QR.

 

[Durge Driven]

This issue is design flaw and either it affects you will depend how you use the wheel.


SEE the diagram, a lot of people still dont know how to properly line up the collar first, you don't just push it in !

Sudden loss of connection to CSL DD and wheel

Hi all, first post from a very new customer. Hopefully this helps someone as I had many hours of frustration before I figured it out: Symptom:

forum.fanatec.com

I think were people go wrong is not using enough force on the small hex bolt. Like the link says 15nm is a bit so use a long handled allen key.

Don't use excessive force on your wheel or hang on with grim grip. Turn the forces down just a bit may help eliviate the issue as well.

 

[gearwhine]

Hi Rasmus, i checked the clamp and it is fine. Am sure it is in the wheel although I have tightened up so tight this time I cannot release it and it feels better all round i think. It has also been clunking on reaction to kerb contact etc which i have read is fixable with foil or plummers tape. I have random lights flashing at times until I push or pull the wheel from the side. Fairly sure if I open it up i will find cable that's under tension and having connection issue.

 

[gearwhine]

This issue is design flaw and either it affects you will depend how you use the wheel.


SEE the diagram, a lot of people still dont know how to properly line up the collar first, you don't just push it in !

Sudden loss of connection to CSL DD and wheel

Hi all, first post from a very new customer. Hopefully this helps someone as I had many hours of frustration before I figured it out: Symptom:

forum.fanatec.com

I think were people go wrong is not using enough force on the small hex bolt. Like the link says 15nm is a bit so use a long handled allen key.

Don't use excessive force on your wheel or hang on with grim grip. Turn the forces down just a bit may help eliviate the issue as well.

I think it basically it is not strong enough to take the force and if the feedback is high it just works itself loose wherever it finds weakness. I use 60% in game with 100% at the Fanatec app. High but not overly so. I agree that reducing load will improve but kind of defeats the point of having all the DD advantages. I have now got the wheel so tight i cannot remove it and it does appear to be more solid however if i flex the wheel i still get random LCD lights flashing. I did release the clamp and try to push the shaft in but it was fine then i used a 1/4 drive socket ratchet to tighten back up. Probably going to end up with a better wheel i think.

 

[Metla]

I use the cheapest P1 wheel on the same base with 8nm, and running 100% Force feedback in the app and 100 % in game the majority of the time.

Mine has never displayed the behaviors you describe so I'm thinking you have a faulty unit.

 

[Durge Driven]

If you do research you will find it is a DESIGN FLAW !
People that dont YANK on the wheel don't get the issue. because it doesn't come loose.
No matter with a new CSL DD you check the collar is properly lined up then tighten to 15nm, like it is made in China so quality control is not good.
I used to have it all the time then I changed my driving ( softer hands) and guess what, no more issue.

P.S. I would bet most users that retighten it don't first check that the collar has the bolt lined up with the cutout.
Like basic physics, if the bolt and collar are not lined up properly then when you tighten the bolt it is not gripping in the right place. Ergo it will come loose easier next time.

 

[Durge Driven]

Hi Rasmus, i checked the clamp and it is fine. Am sure it is in the wheel although I have tightened up so tight this time I cannot release it and it feels better all round i think. It has also been clunking on reaction to kerb contact etc which i have read is fixable with foil or plummers tape. I have random lights flashing at times until I push or pull the wheel from the side. Fairly sure if I open it up i will find cable that's under tension and having connection issue.

Flashing lights could possibly be bent or broken pins.
This can happen if the wheel collar is loose, wheel moves upwards then when you turn
it puts pressure on the end of the pins.

Never had my CSL DD "clunk" I can recall, thanks for small mercies.

Anyway I 100% confident you could make every CSL DD wheel come loose using enough force.
It is very easy to get carried away and not realize.
Much the same reason some pedal sets start to spike, too hard on them, easy to get carried away and not understand how hard you are pressing.

 

[gearwhine]

Flashing lights could possibly be bent or broken pins.
This can happen if the wheel collar is loose, wheel moves upwards then when you turn
it puts pressure on the end of the pins.

Never had my CSL DD "clunk" I can recall, thanks for small mercies.

Anyway I 100% confident you could make every CSL DD wheel come loose using enough force.
It is very easy to get carried away and not realize.
Much the same reason some pedal sets start to spike, too hard on them, easy to get carried away and not understand how hard you are pressing.

My clamp is not loose and all the pins are straight plus i only use it for steering and don't "Yank" it. The clunk i mention IS i discover a known fault with a simple cure. I will get to the bottom of it i am sure but a wheel made of plastic with a lot of inbuilt flex is not going to help the situation. Maybe i should of stuck with my Thrustmaster if i have to turn the power down to avoid problems or as i said earlier, get a better wheel and with it a better QR

 

[gearwhine]

Ok, i think i have fixed my wheel.
1st i removed the wheel and undid the clamp on the shaft again. although it appeared to be fully home with a hefty tap i was able to move maybe 1mm inwards. I used a torque wrench and retightened to the 15nm specified making sure the split in the sleeve lined up with the clamp split.
2nd, i stripped the qr down as far as i could exposing the wiring that enters the wheel. All looked good there and the wires are bonded with resin to the pin block which all looked as it should. I did however find one pin is shorter than the rest which i tried to pull to same level but it was not going to move so i guess the pins are bonded well. I screwed everything back together making sure it was all as tight as i could get it without over doing it.
3rd, and i think with the most improvement after feeling the side float in the qr where the slot is, and not made with the best tolerance. I did what Rasmus and many others have done and folded a few layers of paper and inserted over the top groove before feeding the wheel over the shaft. Far less movement, less creaking, no more clunk that the space in the groove was causing and after extensive testing i have no flashing lcd display and my gear and button selection is 100% reliable (for now).
Not what we should be doing to a "quality" product after only a few months of use and my conclusion is that although the wheel does have some unwanted flex i believe the plasic qr is the week link in the system. It may be fine for light use but if asked to perform under hard use over extended time on a regular basis it is not man enough for the job.

 

[RasmusP]

i stripped the qr down as far as i could exposing the wiring that enters the wheel. All looked good there and the wires are bonded with resin to the pin block which all looked as it should. I did however find one pin is shorter than the rest

The shorter pin is normal! Afaik it's the (-)pole. Similar when swapping car batteries, you want the (+)pole connected first, otherwise you get a nice sparky-party
Ofc no sparks for just a steering wheel, but it's a nice thing that they made the second pole a bit shorter.

I did what Rasmus and many others have done and folded a few layers of paper and inserted over the top groove before feeding the wheel over the shaft. Far less movement, less creaking, no more clunk that the space in the groove was causing and after extensive testing i have no flashing lcd display and my gear and button selection is 100% reliable (for now).

Awesome! Great to hear that it seems to be reliable now and also without clunk anymore. It drove me absolutely crazy having this little "slip" when going through chicanes. Always thought I hit a bump or lost grip...

Not what we should be doing to a "quality" product after only a few months of use and my conclusion is that although the wheel does have some unwanted flex i believe the plasic qr is the week link in the system. It may be fine for light use but if asked to perform under hard use over extended time on a regular basis it is not man enough for the job.

Indeed.. But believe me, the metal QR isn't perfect either. You barely have rotational play, but you trade it for some general wiggling in all other directions. Luckily you can screw it tight with the extra bolt. Fanatec states to only use the short leverage of the allan key, but that comes loose after every second race or so.
So back then I thought about it and the bolt is M6 steel, the QR and shaft are aluminium. So I just used the long lever and screwed it tight. No issues in over 2 years of using my Porsche 918 wheel.
(sold it though, because it was too big and only drove with the McLaren v2 since it came out)

 

[Michael Krone]

A little tip I may have to offer here. I had problems like yous describe and I found there was a small amount of grease that kept making its way into the threads.

Cleaned that real good and wrapped the bolt with some teflon. Never came loose again.

 

[gearwhine]

A little tip I may have to offer here. I had problems like yous describe and I found there was a small amount of grease that kept making its way into the threads.

Cleaned that real good and wrapped the bolt with some teflon. Never came loose again.

That is an earlier design i believe. I have no bolt in my qr. I did however discover a squirt of WD40 on the threads actually made it worse and created some sticking of the threads