Fanatec Clubsport V2 Pedals Brake Shock Replacement

[HUM24H]

Hi All,

There are many threads on the internet regarding a shock replacement for the Fanatec Clubsport V2 Pedals Brake but I wanted to post what I did. Hopefully you guys find this useful

Here is a link to the Shock's:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331163869991?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

The shock I bought is a non branded shock from eBay which is called Big Foot and it is 120mm from Centre hole to Centre hole which is the perfect size to fit the Clubsport Pedals. For those who can't get this Shock; the Spring itself is 65mm in length, 25mm in width and the thickness of the spring is around 2/3mm (ish ) If you buy this set you get 2 Shock's which for me is great as I can have one set with Medium to High Tension for Race Cars and one set with Medium to Low Tension for Road Cars but even if you have the tension at it's lowest setting on these shocks it has a lot more tension than the standard Fanatec Shock plus this shock allows for much better modulation with a better rebound when coming off the brake and the it has a fluid motion when pressing the brake pedal in with a nice progressive feel when you brake harder. At the moment I havent managed to take these apart to see what Shock Oil is used inside, if any, but they feel fantastic either way.





Now you will notice that I have not inserted the securing pin at the rear of the shock, the reason for this is; a) The thickness of the end piece won't allow me to put the securing pin in and b) there is no need as the shock stays in place without it.





Here is a picture of the Shock's next to the standard Shock supplied by Fanatec:

 

[Gpruitt54]

the 7 rear's are long enough, measured a long time ago but Trust me the 7 rear's are what you need. And you technically want a longer shock than the mounting points. No much but 5-10mm ensures you have some tension and the piston is in a full bath of oil, Not hanging out RIGHT at the top of the body

7mm seem incredibly short, I was thinking I might need something around 100mm to 125mm long shock. Can you measure the shock you are using and report on the length?

 

[Moxley6969]

Nowhere in that paragraph did i say 7mm, Stock fana shock is 125mm mount to mount, the Mugen 7 rear's are 130mm +/- a few mm pending how far you are screwing on the bottom shock end.

 

[Gpruitt54]

Nowhere in that paragraph did i say 7mm, Stock fana shock is 125mm mount to mount, the Mugen 7 rear's are 130mm +/- a few mm pending how far you are screwing on the bottom shock end.

You are right, you said 7 to 10 mm. I was spitting the difference with 7. Anyway, 130mm is what I was looking for.

 

[Moxley6969]

Actually 5-10mm but ya, no worries. Threw in some 7's in there that could have confused. Sorry.

 

[Jason Palmer]

All sorted i have now moved bar up one hole, had to remove pedals from my rig as i just could not quite get to that pesky screw while they were in place, and what a difference this simple change makes.

Thanks for the tip mate i am really enjoying the new feel i have with the brake pedal.

Jason.

 

[Gpruitt54]

All sorted i have now moved bar up one hole, had to remove pedals from my rig as i just could not quite get to that pesky screw while they were in place, and what a difference this simple change makes.

Thanks for the tip mate i am really enjoying the new feel i have with the brake pedal.

Jason.

Changing the location of the pivot point made the break a lot shorter, right? How much shorter is your break through after the mod?

 

[Moxley6969]

 

[Jason Palmer]

Now i could not tell you if its shorter, longer, softer or harder but what i can tell is that it now just feels right and its transformed both the DTM and GT3 experiences on R3E.

Once you get the pedals tipped over it only takes a couple of minutes to take the screw out and move bar up one hole so why not give it ago and see if it transforms your CSP in the same way it did for me mate.

Jason.

 

[Jason Palmer]

I have done a bit of testing just to see whats what and thought i would post my findings in case it helps.

First with Bar in default position.

No shock - unusable.

Fanatec shock - far to soft with no kick back when coming off brake.

Up rated shock and 1200 grade oil - a lot better with plenty of pressure when pushing down followed by a strong return when coming off the brake allowing for better feel.

The same tests with bar now one hole up.

Without shock - still unusable.

With standard shock - a lot better with a firmer feel when pressing down but still no kick back coming off the brake.

With up rated shock - Miles better, the pedal now requires firm pressure and the travel now corresponds to braking force a lot closer than before and the better shock still brings pedal back strongly.

Jason.

 

[Moxley6969]

I DO NOT suggest the Fanatec oil, It is Sub par quality. Losi 35wt is what i run. you DO NOT want too thick of oil as well, it will Kill the entire mod.

 

[Jim van Sickle]

Yes, I was waiting for someone to give up the wt. $ make of oil. Thank you)

 

[David O'Reilly]

Do you think it would be possible to use some kind of a shock absorber like this to replace the standard spring mechanism in the plain CSR pedals.
They dont use a load sensor.

 

[Jason Palmer]

As for oil i am not sure how the oil i used rates against the oil Fanatec supplies.

Huzzah gave me the pair of up rated shocks and two bottles of oil with these pedals and i have one filled with the bottle that simply has 5000 on and the filled the other one with the bottle labled 12000 and i preferred the higher rated oil.

I just don't know how this sits in the rating system as don't know much about these R/C shocks and stuff to be honest. I just used the oil i had and stuck with the one that gave me the feedback i liked.

Jason.

 

[Moxley6969]

As i said, Fanatec oil is Cheap Knock off stuff from "over there" that isn't even CLOSE to what real RC Mfg's supply to their racers. RC stuff is lab tested to be what it is. The stuff fanatec includes in the package is questionable At best. Comparing side by side I KNOW for a fact the 5000 is NOT 50wt or anywhere close to it, Nor is the 120000 , 120wt. Again cheap knock off oil's aren't favorable. Hit up your local hobby shop and pick up some Losi, Associared, Mugen, What ever you can get, just not the craptastic fanatec oil.

 

[Jason Palmer]

I have a hobby stores near me so may have a look in the new year.

I don't think the oil I have in the up rated shocks is the fanatec stuff as that was a small bottle and these Others were a lot larger and a lot thicker. So far only used original stuff for a quick test after moving pivot bar never used it for racing and not likely to either.

Jason.

 

[yenclas]

I DO NOT suggest the Fanatec oil, It is Sub par quality. Losi 35wt is what i run. you DO NOT want too thick of oil as well, it will Kill the entire mod.

Where Can I buy it on ebay ?

Thank you very much

 

[Moxley6969]

Buy what Shock oil ? Just type in what you want and what brand and whamo,

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=losi+35wt+shock+oil&_sacat=0

 

[yenclas]

Today arrived Mugen shock. Any instructions to mount it ? Fanatec stock Oil is ok until I buy a good one ?

Sorry by my bad English

 

[yenclas]

Anyone with Mugen shocks ?

Do you fill entire damper with oil ?

 

[Moxley6969]

Sorry I missed your post yenclas, Did you manage to find some pictures of how we mount it ? You can actually do it either way if you please, Ive had a few guys mount them opposite of how i do mine and no issues.

As far as how much oil, You want to have the Shock AS full as possible with No air, Yes sounds tricky and might take a few times but Keep at it and you'll get it. If you can feel Air in the shock, Start over, DONT pump the shock a bunch or you will form 1000's of bubble's which just takes longer to settle, Unscrew the cap, Let the bubbles settle, Add some more oil and try again.