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Fanatec Clubsport V2 Pedals Brake Shock Replacement

Discussion in 'Sim Racing Hardware' started by HUM24H, Aug 7, 2014.

  1. HUM24H

    Godspeed Premium Member

    Hi All,

    There are many threads on the internet regarding a shock replacement for the Fanatec Clubsport V2 Pedals Brake but I wanted to post what I did. Hopefully you guys find this useful :)

    Here is a link to the Shock's:

    The shock I bought is a non branded shock from eBay which is called Big Foot and it is 120mm from Centre hole to Centre hole which is the perfect size to fit the Clubsport Pedals. For those who can't get this Shock; the Spring itself is 65mm in length, 25mm in width and the thickness of the spring is around 2/3mm (ish :p) If you buy this set you get 2 Shock's which for me is great as I can have one set with Medium to High Tension for Race Cars and one set with Medium to Low Tension for Road Cars but even if you have the tension at it's lowest setting on these shocks it has a lot more tension than the standard Fanatec Shock plus this shock allows for much better modulation with a better rebound when coming off the brake and the it has a fluid motion when pressing the brake pedal in with a nice progressive feel when you brake harder. At the moment I havent managed to take these apart to see what Shock Oil is used inside, if any, but they feel fantastic either way.



    Now you will notice that I have not inserted the securing pin at the rear of the shock, the reason for this is; a) The thickness of the end piece won't allow me to put the securing pin in and b) there is no need as the shock stays in place without it.



    Here is a picture of the Shock's next to the standard Shock supplied by Fanatec:
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2014
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  2. Leemstradamus

    Mid pack attack!

    Your awesome for posting this. I've been really wanting a better shock for my set aswell. How do you like the stiffness of the new shock?
  3. HUM24H

    Godspeed Premium Member

    I'm really enjoying the stiffness of this Shock. It allows for much better braking modulation plus it has much better rebound when you lift off the brake. I highly recommend it to people looking for a better shock than the standard Fanatec shock.
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  4. Very cool.

    Do you require more maximum pressure or is it just better modulation? I have to jump on my brake to get 100% as it is, any more may not be viable.
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014
  5. HUM24H

    Godspeed Premium Member

    Yes it is a straight swap as it is the correct length Shock for the Pedals. Like I said by increasing the spring tension on the Shock you can have more or less tension depending on how you like it. In regards to the amount of pressure to get to 100% braking usually you have to brake hard to get close to 100% braking in a car so if your finding it hard then I would make sure you have the sensitivity of the pedals set to the highest which is 10 but having a softer spring or a stiffer spring will only make it harder or easier to reach 100% braking, you are still going to need to press the brake hard to get close to 100% braking as it is a load cell and measure pressure in KG.
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  6. Thanks, I have always thought the load sensor may be off on my set of V2s. May wait till it goes before I grab another damper.
  7. HUM24H

    Godspeed Premium Member

    Yeah I would suggest getting a new Load Cell if you are having problems like this.

    Overall though the advantages this Shock provide over the Stock Shock by Fanatec are:

    - More adjustability in Spring Tension
    - Holds oil much better allowing for a better and more fluid feel
    - Rebounds faster meaning the brake springs back once you lift your foot off the brake but this can be changed depending on the tension you set the spring
    - Better progressive feel as you press the pedal further

    I do recommend trying different Shocks and Springs as they do differ quite a lot, some springs are narrower but have more coils where others are wider with less coils. Some springs have fatter coils where other favour thinner coils. Shocks as well differ as some have one cylinder to hold the oil, some use reservoirs and some hold oil much better than others.

    It is just trial and error if I'm honest :)
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  8. Thanks Humzah, great info.
  9. The main problem with the fanatec shock is the fact it is a shock. Shock absorbers dampen out bump and rebound forces from the suspension, all well and good for the suspension but not what we want for trying to simulate a hydraulic brake system. If you take the stock shock apart you will notice within it is a small round white disc with two holes drilled through it, these holes are calibrated to allow fluid too pass through as the shock moves allowing full movement but still at the same time dampening out shocks. So the cheapest and simplest way to get a better pedal feel is to simply block these two holes in turn creating a hydraulic lock every time you press the break which is what happens when you press your car breaks. I don't know if anyone else has tried this just by thoughts on it,, it's cheaper than buying another shock......
  10. HUM24H

    Godspeed Premium Member

    Interesting, might give this a go on my Stock Fanatec Shock. But if i'm honest unless you are locking the brakes there is no real need to have the feel of Hydraulic Lock but thats just what I think. To me that's why we have pedal sets that use Stiffer Springs, More Springs, Progressive Springs but there are only a few top end pro grade pedals that use a closed hydraulic loop to simulate the hydraulic brake system in a real car but these pedals are expensive. Overall having a stiff (depends on how you like it) and smooth/fuild brake pedal is more than enough at least for me anyway.
  11. You bought these pedals for the hydraulic feel brake pedal then you would at least expect them to be a true hydraulic brake circuit not a shock, not having ago just stated you can have a better hydraulic feel pedal without splashing out more hard earned.
  12. HUM24H

    Godspeed Premium Member

    The cost of installing a hydraulic brake circuit into a pedal set is quite expensive, even if we someone did what you stated it still won't be the same as having a true hydraulic brake circuit therefore it would feel more like a hydraulic circuit than the shocks we have but at the same time even if we did this you still gonna be left with a Fanatec Shock which is not that good to begin with so I can see what your saying but your attempting to improve something that already isnt that good.

    There are reasons behind why most pedals Consumer to Pro Grade don't use a Hydraulic Circuit for the brake and if im honest I dont really see the real need to have it. Pro Drivers are more than happy to use pedal sets than don't have them and instead use Stiff Springs or Shocks.
  13. HUM24H

    Godspeed Premium Member

    But Sim-Racing is all about personal preference, there is no point trying to make something feel like something if your comfortable with it. If you're happy with G27 pedals then thats fine, if you're fine with Clubsport then that is fine and if you're fine with £500+ pedals than that is fine. Sim-Racing is about preference, you will go faster the more comfortable and more relaxed you are with your equipment then trying to race with equipement your not comfortable with.
  14. Ok, just stating you can improve for little expenditure. For me anyway it feels a lot better, but as you have found out the spring could do with replacing.
  15. Good idea Stuart. May be a problem with the stock fanatec seals if your option is used, I overfilled the damper (Edit: when I first bought the unit) playing around with tension, the small seal at the the end of the oil reservoir popped the instant pressure was applied.
    Edit: unless I'm misunderstanding you.

    Well last Bigfoot set has been sold.....to me;)...thought I would try it out, worst case I use them when I install a new load sensor.
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2014
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  16. Don't fully fill with oil, half full in main shock then attach to the reservoir fill to start of threads then reassemble, had no leaks so far, just be careful not to nick the o ring seals.
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  17. Makes sense, thanks Stuart.
  18. Good Find Humzah, but it appears that bigfoot Shock is a No name Knock off sub par quality shock that isn't much better than the stock Fana shock. Simple anodized bodies dont last that long and will eventually start to leak like the stock shock does. I Personally suggest spending a few more $$ on a quality 1/8 RACE branded shock, For Instance the Mugen MBX7 Rear shocks. They are 100X better quality than the stock Shock and are available on Ebay for Significantly cheaper than you would think. You also buy in pairs so you have a spare for a fellow sim racing buddy or a spare you can try different oil combo's in for a different feel. The Mugen's are also Hard coated and Wont be wearing out any time soon.

    Next would be the importance of braking distance, The Stock Hole the brake is located in is Ok i guess but if you really want to make the brake pedal feel like a real Pedal, Move up the axle 1 hole, Your brake pedal will feel 10000X better.

  19. Glueing shut piston holes/Locking up the shock wouldn't end well. Knowing how cheap the fana shock body is, I wouldn't be surprised if it went " pop " O-rings likely wont be able to deal with the pressure you would be building up in the shock. And The fact remains that the Stock piston is a HORRIBLE fit and has Ridiculous amount of blow by past the piston.
  20. HUM24H

    Godspeed Premium Member

    Its hard to find the Mugen shock here in the UK. So far the shock is doing more than enough for me if I'm honest, all I wanted is a stiffer and smoother break feel which it is giving me. I would of got the Mugen as I know that fits the Fanatec Pedals perfectly but I could not find it in the UK.