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DIY Hydraulic Pedals

Discussion in 'Sim Racing Hardware' started by Psydfx, Jul 31, 2013.

  1. Hey all ,

    I started sim racing around 16 months ago , it was after 6 odd months that i started getting some trouble from my CSP's , that i decided to explore the prospect of building something of my own . So with the help of a friend of mine (he has electronics knowledge, i have none :D) i set about what you see below ...

    So here we go ....

    I have to say a big thankyou before anything else to Phil Berry for all his help and words of encouragement !

    Like any project its the slow and painful process of acquiring bit on a parts by parts basis .....

    So this is what i have managed to receive thus far :

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    Magnets for the Hall Sensors

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    These being the Hall Sensors ( tiny little things)

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    Pressure transducer for the clutch

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    Measpec transducer for the brake

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    Pull slaves

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    I have 2 types of valve springs that i will be using on the pull slave , depending on how hard or soft you want the effect to be

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    The pedal assembly (pièce de résistance in my opinion)

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    Master for the clutch pedal

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    Masters for the brakes

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    Load cell amp (many thanks to derek speare)

    Thats all i have for now , so as i accumulate more gear and finally begin the construction i will post more pics ...
     
    • Like Like x 1
  2. I now have a few more bits and have taken some pics of a mini-mock up !

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    As per original post this is the integrated clutch reservoir

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    The twin brake master cylinders

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    The mock-ups .....

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    Time permitting i will be grabbing a project box to house the integrated load cell amp this weekend (still waiting for it to arrive) .

    I also will endeavour to get onto Nils of MDPC fame to acquire some of his insane cable sheath (http://www.mdpc-x.com/) , i want to add some color to the monochromatic masterpiece !!

    The next thing to decide on is the mounting base , 80/20 will be the preferred weapon of choice , but as always its how to make something neat , simple and effective !

    Cheers !!!
     
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  3. [​IMG]
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    I now have trimmed the master cylinder shafts for the brakes to a better length , allowing the pedal to be more upright (these could be further trimmed to give a more acute angle).
     
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  4. I found some shouldered bolts that looked neat and tidy ... I am using these to mount the pedals to the base and also for the stand-offs which hold the slaves
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    I made the stand-offs from the alloy rod , drilled the necessary holes ...
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    Used my trusty tap to give me a M6 thread
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    I did this so it gave me a clean finish/look once all mounted up
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    Also had a chance to make the hall effect sensor mount , also in this pic you can see where the magnet for it sits
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    And added an extension spring to the throttle to give it some nice pressure
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  5. Tonight i was able to have a red-hot crack at doing the plumbing for the brakes ...
    Started by buying some basic fittings (what i thought i need to allow me to see what i want to make). I am using 3/16 stainless hard line. I like the fact that its self supportive once shaped and its a lot easier to work with than braided line !
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    Here you can see what i mean by being self supportive ! I'm thinking that i can turn the pressure transducer 180 deg so that minimal wiring is visible ....
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    Nice and simple ....
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    I also had the chance to make the footrest covers .... i have decided that i'm going to mount all wiring etc underneath the footrest section and position the ratiometric knob to the left (clutch pedal side) for easy to reach tuning capabilities ... once mounted i will post some pics
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    Adios for now !!
     
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  6. After bending all the hard line and flaring it , it now looks like this ....
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    Here you can also see how both pressure transducers are mounted ,
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    Once i was satisfied i moved on to the wiring , my main objective was to keep it as clean as possible !
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    Here is where i tucked away the DSD Contoller
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    In putting it here it allowed me to come up with a much better solution for mounting and accessing the ratiometric knob
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    Here it is sitting inside the Obutto (gives you an idea on how compact i have kept it , making it a viable option for cockpits with minimal access)
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  7. After taking a bit of time to get used to my pedals , i decided that it was now time to start playing around with spring rates ...
    Luckily for me i have a number of friends that race Pro Stock and Doorslammer , so i leaned on a couple of them for some springs that werent ideal for racing anymore.
    I got a few different types of springs , but the standouts were the 'slammer/alky springs ... As you can see the differences between the springs is rather large ...
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    You can see here that i now have fitted a 'triple' spring to the clutch .... giving me a very linear feel , the 'slipping' point is now around 1/3rd of the pedal travel and pretty much in the middle of it !
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    I also changed to a heavier spring for the brake ...
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    Really is amazing the difference in feel and immersion these small changes give you ....
    Cheers
     
    • Like Like x 2
  8. Like any project , i built my own 80/20 rig and found a better way of mounting the pedals and what you see here is pretty much as it sits today .... My wife would like to say its finished ..... But as we all know, thats something i cant promise ;)
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    • Like Like x 11
  9. Rui F. Martins

    Rui F. Martins
    Premium Member

    you got a really nice set of pedals and a nice rig there, good job :thumbsup:
     
  10. Great build, it would be even more interesting with a list of prices and items! :)
    The base pedal set looks eerily similar to a Tilton 600 set btw, is that a coincidence?
     
  11. One Word!
    AMAZING!:thumbsup:
     
  12. Thankyou :)
     
  13. Hi William ,

    I looked into using the Tilton pedals , but they were cost prohibitive for me ! Nearly $700 AUD , i got my pedal set as well as m/c's for that price by using Wilwood gear !

    Here is the pedal assembly i used ...

    http://www.wilwood.com/Pedals/PedalProd.aspx?itemno=340-12410

    I will endeavour to put together a list of resources and the prices i paid for each item . Hopefully it will encourage others to build their own too !

    Kind words , Thankyou
     
  14. WTF Whow drool Very well done :)
     
  15. this pedalbox looks insane!!! im doing a similar project but little bit more on a budget, the pedals doesn´t look as nice as yours, im waiting for some pieces to come, a question, how do you connect the clutch load cell into the dsd board? i have the same myself, it only have 1 load cell amp did you get a standalone dsd amp apart?? for throttle what do you recommend pots or hall effect sensor? where did you get the magnet? thanks for posting this, is an inspiration to me.

    The list of pieces im going to use if anyone is interested on a less cost solution is this -> pedalbox that includes all master cylinders balance bar, reservoirs http://www.ebay.es/itm/universal-fl...hicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2580d14ac7&_uhb=1 very nice product and very good seller, dsd board, http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Pull-Type-Slave-Cylinder,7169.html this slave cylinders, fittings from same site , and for brake lines these http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Braided-Stainless-AN-6-Inch-Brake-Line,32700.html, i would prefer the metal hard lines but, dont have tools and skills required to do all the bending and flaring thing so i go through easy route but a cheaper solution than mine is this http://www.speedwaymotors.com/3-16-Inch-Steel-Brake-Line,1989.html. I think i dont left nothing behind except the pieces i will need to fix it into my cockpit but the main is there, only doubt is the pot vs hall effect and clutch load cell thing. another thing is handbrake from same ebay seller. The wait is killing me :D
     
  16. Hi there ,

    Those pedals , i'm sure will be perfect for what you need ! When you order them specify that you would like the 3/4" bore master cylinders . The same diameter should be used for the pull slaves too ( i notice that they are the larger 7/8" ).

    The pressure transducer i used for the brake was :

    http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/M3421-000006-01KPG/MSP6895-ND/726355

    and i also used a pressure transducer on the clutch pedal ..
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-tr...si-for-oil-fuel-air-/250957430320?refid=store

    the above is 1000psi , which is probably overkill for the clutch . This one below would be more than sufficient ..

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-tr...si-for-oil-fuel-air-/250988155990?refid=store

    As you noted i am using the DSD board with load cell amp.. Below is how to wire the transducers .... the Measpec is the transducer with 4 wires (brakes)

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    Stick to -3AN fittings , small and neat !


    Magnets are these ..

    http://apexmagnets.com/cylinders-c-4/1-2-x-1-cylinders-p-145

    And i used this hall sensor ..

    http://shop.moderndevice.com/products/a1324-hall-effect-sensor

    If i have missed anything please let me know or ask away , ill help with what and where i can
     
  17. hello very great job how much cost all? thanks
     
  18. it depends on the parts you use, for me and my parts mentioned before making a rough estimation is, 230€ pedalbox with m cyl and balance bar included + near 100 € the meas spec load cell + 60 € 2 load cells 500 psi stainless steel from ebay (1 for clutch, 1 for handbrake) + near 200 € 3 cluth slave cylinders, brake lines and fittings + dsd board another 40 € and left 1 potentiometer or hall effect sensor (i think im going to recycle 1 from older pedals for this) metal plate to adjust to he cockpit and other spare things. Well when you start adding things up the price goes up to 600-650 € quickly
     
  19. Have you been able to pretty accurately simulate brake pads clamping down on a brake rotor? Possibly with the added springs?
     
  20. http://www.varjanta.com/forum/hydraulic-brake-pedal-handmade-t1808.html take a look here it is a very good project it uses a "dry" load cell in the middle of the pads and springs. This kind of load cell could be good too for the purpose you can install it in the middle or end of the rubber stack/spring in the slave cylinder, i think i looked for price info but very difficult to find and ther ones that accepts big loads are expensive from what i remember.