DFGT Users. Your Opinion.

This is where learning the track and the car come in handy. The more you know the track and the car, the more you can push them both in a race. Find markers on track to let you know exactly when to apply the brakes as well as when to apply throttle. Be smooth in your execution of the turns and also remember slow in fast out is the key.

Again I need to mention setups because with a bad setup, you are not going to be consistent and you are not going to be able to handle the car the way you need to for the fast times. If your car is still having issues with snap steer when you apply brakes, lower the front bump on your shocks and increase the rear rebound. This will slow down the movement of the weight from the rear to the front and should allow your back end to stick a little bit more. Use the brake more and the engine less if you need to so that you keep the engine from locking the rear wheels. By downshifting at lower rpm's you are putting less load on the rear tires.
 
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Blipping does help a bit, but brakes are always my problem.
Not sure where it slots into the scheme of things, but my best time is a 201.3...Monza 07, BMW WTCC/07/o8 models.

Just out of curiosity David - you not using 100% braking force all the time are you on car setups? I remember with my old Sidewinder I always tried to use above 95% and had similar problems, it changed when I dropped it to 75%. . . I usually have it up above 90% now but it could depend on the hardware as well as the sensitivity settings.

Also when you go into settings advanced the little graphic of the brake bar does go up in line with how you press/release the pedal? I ask this just to be sure you don't have a sticky 'pot' on your brake pedal causing it to not sense the pedal movement then suddenly throw the brakes on further down..
 
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I've used a DFGT for around 15 months without any problems. Bought it for a bargain £60 (before GT5 came out, see?!) and can't complain about its performance. Yes, the pedals are rotten, but what you can do is stick a little bit of foamy material into the brake pedal and voila- instant resistance! I bought a set of CSPs a couple of months ago, and i really can't see me buying any other wheels/pedals in future- unless they break down. (which has happened to the CSPs once already)
 
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This will slow down the movement of the weight from the rear to the front

The simbin selected default set up for Brands Hatch was farcical, at least for me{58/42}, even the slightest touch at T1 and huge snap snip, and also the very last cnr.
As I said before, if i move the brake bias to something like 61/39, the car rarely snaps, but I feel like it's locking up......either way, I can find a good pace and drive that lap after lap without any hairy moments, but I'm just too slow.
 
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So unless you have just bought the DFGT, everybody already knows Logitech's HUGE failure with their brake pedal on the DFGT. The brake pedals stays ''stuck'' when it's actually fully released. That is a very common issue, it's actually my third DFGT and all three had the same friggin problem.



http://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=172158

S
ounds like the exact problem I'm having.
G27 or nothing for sim racing IMO, but the brake performance is fine with ABS, so if you're a aids on person, you could buy a DFGT for only a few quid and have a good time, however, most online sim racing won't allow you to activate any aids.
 
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You say it yourself though, your main problem is the braking and the different brakebias-settings for that ect., that's exactly my problem too.
But it has nothing to do with the DFGT itself (the wheel) ;)
I expect the CSP to be way ahead of the g27 pedals, so I would end up with a better setup overall compared to G27 (wheel + pedals),
for about the same prize in the end
+ some spare pedals if they are needed^^

I just wanted to confirm that this combo works awesome, dfgt + csp that is ;)
 
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http://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=172158

S
ounds like the exact problem I'm having.
G27 or nothing for sim racing IMO, but the brake performance is fine with ABS, so if you're a aids on person, you could buy a DFGT for only a few quid and have a good time, however, most online sim racing won't allow you to activate any aids.
I've never had that problem or anything like it. For those of us that don't have $200+ sitting around, I think the DFGT is a very fine wheel.
 
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I've never had that problem or anything like it. For those of us that don't have $200+ sitting around, I think the DFGT is a very fine wheel.

Yeah, I have my doubts, I used to think it was my inability to apply the brakes, but it's the pedals and their crappy construction.
Anyway, I'm just warning people, just as many others have done, including Inside Sim racing, ie, they didn't think much of the DFGT pedals, but made mention of the fact that G27 had very good pedals.
 
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ah ha, all is well!!
I should have my G27 within a month...can't wait for the new challenge of proper sim racing.
My DFGT paddles are kaput as well, so getting a whole new wheel set makes sense.

Should be a good choice David.

I had a similar choice, G27 or CSP? Costed about the same and I think I made the right one for me.
I'm loving the new pedals and in the future I can upgrade my wheel to a Fanatec one, which is very practical, as they sell all their stuff seperately which is perfect ;)
 
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I read elsewhere that someone improved their lap time by 4secs using CSP.....don't know which game though.

Maybe GT5, it seems to be a huge difference there. I'm a Race-Series player and my laptimes didn't change alot, simply because there aren't 4 seconds left for me anymore ;) And I hadn't really big problems with my old dfgt-pedals. I could do pretty much the same laptimes with it, just the braking was inconsistent at times, mainly because of some lock-ups. On a few cars it's a few tenths better now and more consistent and what's even more important, more fun ! :D
 
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