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Calling all g27 experts!!! Your knowledge is much sought!!!

Discussion in 'Sim Racing Hardware' started by mewle, Mar 31, 2016.

  1. Hi all,
    I'm new here and I just bought a g27 from ebay.

    I'm having some issues however.
    The main board was dead and I sourced and fitted a replacement, and the wheel works great except for the various lock settings.

    Even though on startup, the wheel turns 900 degrees, the most I can get out of my wheel is 450 degrees lock to lock(as in the FFB lock, I can rotate past the ffb lock to 900 degrees, but it is not usable in game or the game controller settings screen).

    I am aware of the start+select+(top,left,right,bottom) combos but they all result as follows(assume start and select are pressed):

    top: 90 degrees lock to lock

    left: ~240 degrees lock to lock

    right: ~330 degrees lock to lock

    bottom: 450 degrees lock to lock

    I have searched a lot for a solution but the same old "secret settings" results come up.
    I have a hunch that it may be the endcoder wheel version is wrong for the board, I have a 60 hole encoder and the 210-000864 REV.002 main board which is identical to the fried board i replaced.

    Can anyone here tell me which encoder goes with which board and if the above combination is incorrect?

    Many thanks for your time
    [edit] added info
  2. Slalom823

    RDTCC S10 Champion Premium

    Perhaps the logitech profile software will help. What sim or games are you using it with?
  3. Thanks for replying!!

    I am using a fresh install of profiler, and I can only get the 450 degrees if the profiler is set to 900. Any less and the total lock reduces a similar percentage

    I'm mainly racing Assetto Corsa at the moment but the same issues arise in dirt rally, pcars, R3E, and the game controller settings windows application
  4. Slalom823

    RDTCC S10 Champion Premium

    Hopefully someone familiar with the wheel can help you out. As a unlikely solution I think it would be worth unplugging the wheel both USB and power, shut down computer, restart still disconnected, then turn off, connect and boot up again. I doubt it will work, but may be worth trying.
  5. :) tried that, more than once in the hope it would do "something" but alas, no.

    I went through a few sims and the profiler/DIView tonight, and it just has no resolution after 450 degrees.

    I'm pretty convinced now that it's the encoder having too many slots, I just hoped someone who might know for sure may well lurk hereabouts.

    I think I'll brave it and just grab a 30 slot one to try, as I said in the OP this wheel just got brought back from the dead so I don't mind messing with it some more.

    and thanks slalom, appreciate the help!
  6. Matheus Machado

    Matheus Machado
    Talking Door Racing Premium

    The encoder is definitely 30 slots for the G27, I have glued mine 3 times already.
    Replace it and see if it works.
  7. PicoBp

    #26 | HSRC - Banzaaaiii Touring Car Crew Premium

    There were two generations of G27, with two different encoders. So it all depends which factory run yours is from.
  8. I'll try and grab a 30 slot as I cant seem to tell whether the new board I put in is 1st or 2nd gen.
    Worst that can happen is I'll have a spare 30 slot encoder when someone here needs one ;)
  9. ok.... I have a 3d printer that I was using to learn with, a makibox(for those who know... yeah I chose it because it has problems that I wanted to solve). I assumed that it wouldn't have the resolution for something like this but I'm going to try it assuming I can get the 3d model right.
  10. PicoBp

    #26 | HSRC - Banzaaaiii Touring Car Crew Premium

  11. Yeah, that much I know. My problems is I bought a broken g27 for £30 and replaced the board. The board determines whether the 30 or 60 slot encoder is needed.

    I suppose I need to find out how to identify the boards. Unless they just altered a value in the firmware and kept the boards identical???? anyway I have a 30 slot modelled now and will print one out later tonight and hopefully try it out.

    If it works I'll be happy to share the .STL
  12. Slightly dodgy print in progress
  13. ok LOL!!! the print was a bust! My printer has developed massive Z-wobble so as you print, each new layer seems drunkenly misaligned with the last. But I have just noticed something odd.

    When I start my wheel it rotates right then left and stops.
    If I unplug the USB and replug it it turns right then left and then centers itself.

    It seems it will only successfully calibrate if the process starts from full left lock!!!

    Any ideas why?
  14. Did you end up buying an encoder?
  15. Not yet no. I have had some stabilization parts made for my printer so I can get a decent print and try that.

    I can only find the brass ones for sale and £30 for a part that might not be right is something I'm not prepared to risk when I can still use the wheel in a comfortable range in the mean time.

    I should have the stabilizer tomorrow or Monday, at which point I'll try another dodgy print lol!