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Breaking Bias

Discussion in 'F1 2012 - The Game' started by Manolis Sigoulakis, Dec 8, 2012.

  1. Can you please help me?
    When do you use front, neutral and rear? Is there any ''rule''?
    Thanks in advance.:)
     
  2. there is no rule about it.You can use it to help you braking by changing the car's handling in specific corners.But most of the times you'll be too busy driving than changing brake bias.:D
     
  3. Always Neutral.
    If it starts raining - Front.
     
  4. Chris Stacey

    Chris Stacey
    Ted Kravitz Appreciation Society Staff Premium Member

    Not necessarily true.

    Front bias is better for heavy, straight line braking points (i.e Monza T1 and T4). This is because when you break the momentum and load of the car moves to the front, so you will want to bias it to the front so that the front brakes absorb the most momentum. This results in a shorter breaking distance.

    As a general setup guide (in dry conditions) you should try to bias the car's brakes in the setup menu slightly to the front for just about every track. Usually between 52%-55% front bias for most tracks. Remember, the value you set in the setup menu are the corresponding values when the car is in Neutral braking bias. When you change the bias those values will either increase (front) or decrease (rear) depending on which bias mode you set.

    For example, at Monza, i set the Neutral bias to be 55% front - 45% rear because Monza has several heavy straight line braking points. So when i move it into front bias, that 55% bias increases (how much i dont know) so that even more of the front brakes will absorb the momentum.

    It really should never be used in the wet because in those conditions you have the highest chance of locking front wheels, so the last thing you want to do is bias the braking to the front. Neutral and rear are the best options for wet running.

    Rear rear bias is better for braking whilst turning (best example is probable T14 in Sepang), this is because when you turn and brake simultaneously, the front wheels probability of locking up goes through the roof.

    the_sigman I Hope this helps :)
     
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  5. FRONT - Front brake bias increases the braking power and stability, but reduces turn in massively. This is useful after long straights where speeds need to be reduced dramatacally, preferably before hairpins. Examples include turn 1 in Bahrain, second-to-last corner in Shanghai and turn 1 at Monza.
    REAR - Rear brake bias decreases braking power and also reduces braking stability. It also allows you to trailbrake, meaning it is possible to brake while turning with a reduced risk of lock-ups. This is useful in braking areas where you need quick turning, or the braking zone is not straight, such as Parabolica in Monza, Pouhon in Spa and turn 8 at Bahrain.
    NEUTRAL - Neutral brake bias is used when braking power, stability and turn-in are all important factors, and this allows you to balance all three out without being advantaged in one and disadvantaged in another. This should be what you use as the default setting, and you should change forward and rearward when needed, before changing back to neutral.
     
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  6. Jose Navarro Thanks. I tested it out, and it is very useful.
     
  7. I use rear bias in Canada before hairpin, in Monaco before harbour chicane and in Abu Dhabi T17 (especially effective here, worth as much as 0.5 sec)
    Front bias T1 in Monza
    Brake balance usually 51-49 or 50-50
     
  8. Kidding?
    If it starts raining, I want the bias even more to the rear. And on most tracks I run with 47-53 anyway, so already the bias is slightly to the rear even in neutral setting. However it differs from track to track. Example: on Hockenheim I feel good with 50-50.

    Braking however is pretty much related to driving style anyway. There's no 'optimal best' that works for everybody.

    But on the issue of that front, neutral and rear setting: Who has a clue what setting it matches?
    say I drive 51-49 in neutral setting. If I change to rear, would that be like 48-52? how big is the gap?
     
  9. Umm.. I wasn't kidding. But then.. I forgot that I use one little trick on wet conditions so you won't be able to drive with front bias. Yeah. nvm. :D
     
  10. The idea behind the bias bar is that it allows the driver to adjust the amount of pressure that the master cylinders put out, hence adjusting the front to rear brake pressure ratio. If the car is locking one end of the car, you have too much bias at that end. Play with the front to rear pressure ratio in practice (through the setup screen) as well as playing with the bias bar on track. Do as much experimentation in practice so that you know what to adjust during quali and the race. You don't want to spend your time in Qualifying and the Race adjusting things to find the optimum setup constantly. You should be within 5 - 10% of your optimum, and use tiny in-car adjustments to change the car in accordance with changes in the car and the track conditions.

    You should also adjust the bias as the weight of fuel in the car changes. For example, you should use more front bias when the car has a large amount of fuel on board, since the high mass over the rear wheels will have the same effect as rear brake bias. On low fuel, you want neutral (slightly forward [51 - 52%]). I usually start the race with forward bias (except if it's wet) and turn it down to neutral as the fuel burns off.

    Just watch onboard of Michael Schumacher and you will see that he continuously adjusts it many times during the race.
     
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  11. Nice :)