Automobilista - How to Set Your Car Up!

A softer ARB will reduce the load on the outer tyre during cornering. Maybe you are confusing roll with load transfer. It is counter-intuitive. With a softer ARB you get more roll but less load transfer from inner to outer wheel. With a stiffer ARB you get less roll but more load transfer from inner to outer wheel.
Ok, the overall cornering load only depends on the levers (track width and CoG height), a stiffer ARB allows less body roll and thus leads to a more even lateral load distribution, meaning the outside tire gets a smaller part of the load than with a softer ARB. Soooo... I disagree, but feel free to educate me.

Edit: Forget it, you are right, ...I'm an idiot. And yes, it is counter-intuitive, especially for idiots like me.
 
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David and Tyler, let's just not forget that the key here is "a softer ARB relative to the other end of the car". THIS is what makes the load to be more evenly distributed - and only for that axle. The other axle will suffer more load transfer now. If both are softer or both are stiffer (maintaining the same roll stiffness balance between the axles), load transfer will be unchanged comparing those situations (in a stead state condition). And the total car load transfer will always be the same for the same lateral G, no matter the ARB configuration.
 
Thanks alot chris :thumbsup::thumbsup:
Usefull guied and PDF is too handy.
Now i can print it and use it in hotlaps, no more need to ALT+TAB ...crash...
 
Excellent guide, well done.
Always thought that "radiator size" had to do with the quantity of airflow allowed into it, not his real size, thus afecting drag instead of weight (with same results).
Cheers.
 
Excellent guide, well done.
Always thought that "radiator size" had to do with the quantity of airflow allowed into it, not his real size, thus afecting drag instead of weight (with same results).
Cheers.

It is. In it's most simple form it's just putting ductape over a part of the radiator to decrease the surface area and therefore less drag (but also less cooling).

Edit: My English sucks tonight but you get the idea.
 
It is. In it's most simple form it's just putting ductape over a part of the radiator to decrease the surface area and therefore less drag (but also less cooling).

Edit: My English sucks tonight but you get the idea.
I believe you're correct, I'll update the guide and PDF tomorrow :)
 
Hey Cris!
Under Steering Lock you say:
"Lower values will result in quicker, snappier steering as the amount of steering input required to turn the wheels is reduced."
Is not that if I am lower the steering rotation
 
I have a slightly different take on power differential, at least in ISI engined games:

- Lower power diff = less oversteer until you get to the oversteer limit, then the rear comes around quicker (ie. more of a snap-oversteer)

- Higher power diff = more oversteer but when you get to the oversteer limit, the rear comes around more gradually (ie. more forgiving oversteer or more of a warning)


I don't know about extreme settings but I find the above to be true at-least in the 20 - 50 % range ever since I started playing F1 2002 all the way to today. If I'm not mistaken, most cars' power diff are usually in that range.
 
Thanks Chris. At last a comprehensive, easy to understand guide. Always wondered why Reiza never put anything like this in their manual. Seems like its a must have to me. Appreciate your effort and time :)
 
Sorry for the delay gents, I had meant to get on and update the guide here and on the PDF, but I've been pretty flatout with real life commitments as well as the sim commitments here. I should hopefully have a bit of free time in the coming week to make some amendments and additions.
 
OK, I have a question re: gearing.

So I slap any old final drive on my gearbox and I find it gives me enough leeway so the top gear extends comfortably all the way to the end of the main straight, and my first gear is great for pulling away at the start. I am happy that I have the correct gearing. However, later on I find I can achieve the same thing with a shorter final drive and a different bunch of gears.

Do I gain an advantage using one final drive over the other or do the two gearboxes equate to the same thing?

Thanks.
:)
 
Hi @Chris I was thinking it would be great if you (or someone with time and knowledge) makes a basic guide for oval setup. With rFactor2 new release in few days and Indy increased popularity because of Fernando news...maybe that can make it good for some RD oval races!

And of course guide would be needed because if not...zero competitiveness at least for me...

Thanks!! It's just a thought anyway!
 
Hi @Chris I was thinking it would be great if you (or someone with time and knowledge) makes a basic guide for oval setup. With rFactor2 new release in few days and Indy increased popularity because of Fernando news...maybe that can make it good for some RD oval races!

And of course guide would be needed because if not...zero competitiveness at least for me...

Thanks!! It's just a thought anyway!
That's a good idea, but unfortunately I know absolutely nothing about setting up a car for oval racing, other than they use asymmetric setups. Perhaps if someone knows how to do it and explain it to the wider public then we could have a pretty cool little "library" of setup guides :D
 
Hello!

First of all, thanks for this setup guide & congratulations for it! :)

Some years ago, I decided to write something similar in my native language, but I stopped this project because lack of time.

@Chris Can I translate this setup guide & complete it if I will find something wrong? :) Of course, I will mark the original source. ;)
 

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