Audio Cables & Connectors Guide

Mr Latte

Premium
Confused with all the different types of inputs/outputs, connections, cables, speaker gauges and head spinning factors? Here is a short guide for when it comes to simply connecting your PC to amplifiers for tactile transducers including Buttkicker models.


Common Factors
  • Connection & Cable Type
  • Male / Female Terminals
  • Couplers / Extenders
  • Length

Note that some connections/cable types can be used for various purposes. Some may look similar but can be different. This will be covered below.

The user has to determine what type of connections their amplifier hardware requires.
Also what length of cables is needed to connect components. Finally, what length/gauge of speaker cable is needed to connect to the tactile transducers being used.

A happy medium is probably the best way to determine what to spend on cabling. Some may be really cheap, others may look a bit flashier but still be affordable to the point you can spend rather high and even silly amounts on these required accessories.



* Images shown are not necessarily recommended types


Amplifier Connections
Consumer Industry Stereo & Audio Visual typical amplifier connections.
SMSL SA-98E shown:

Binding Post & Banana Plugs
These posts can be found on speakers and on the back of many consumer amplifiers. These are used to connect the speaker cable between the amplifier and speaker or tactile transducer. Many binding posts can accept a bare wire and tightened. The Bananna Plug connector is designed for a better quality connection and easy unplugging. However, on many products, these were banned in the EU countries due to safety warnings of someone being potentially stupid enough to try and plug 2-pin mains into them.



Audio Industry / Music Professional Amplifiers
Models like Behringer Inuke below, or other 4ohm Power Amplifiers will offer the following connections





SpeakON
Speakon connections are generally found on power amplifiers used by music industry professionals. This connection is suitable for the speaker cable and to output audio to the speaker / tactile connected. It is possible to find expanded variations of these but the standard "2 Pole" configuration is all that is needed for conventional speakers and tactile. However some "4 Pole" connections may have a more premium build. These can, of course, be wired for standard 2 cable purposes. More info is available in the link provided below.

These use a nice twist and lock feature. It can be purchased as connectors/cable individually and the user wires their own cable to them connecting some screws. Quick searches will find a how to pictorial or video. Although it is possible to purchase a cable for the suitable length required with the connectors already attached. These usually come with good thick rubber isolation, to prevent interference and protect the cable.

A popular brand for these cables is Neutrik and it may be worth spending a bit more to get a quality well-respected brand. Ebay and other places can be flooded with alternatives. The choice, however, is yours but do be wary of very cheap cables, yet there is no real need to purchase over expensive ones neither.

LINK



XLR
XLR cables are possibly the best choice to use as an input source connection you want to amplify.
On some amplifier models and interfaces, these may have XLR inputs suitable for dual connections that can accept both (¼)”(TRS) Jacks & XLR. These are both popularly used within the dj / studio & professional musical industries.




Unlike RCA the XLR cables are balanced, which greatly reduces the amount of noise/interference they can pick up. They are also much better for longer cable runs. ¼” inch cables can support a TRS (Tip/Ring/Sleeve) mode that uses a balanced signal, but often (most of the time) for guitar cables, they do not.

Below is a 3.5 MM Male - XLR Stereo Male cable
This could connect a PC Soundcard - Amplifier with XLR inputs (Behringer Inuke DSP).
Pay attention to the 3 Pins that connect to the 3 holes. Also notice the extra-thick rubber protective cover compared to RCA cables.



(¼“) (TRS) 6.35 MM Jack
These were commonly used in early telephone exchanges and are also known as
Phone-Jack / Headphone Jack / 6.3mm Jack / Quarter Inch Jack / Guitar Jack / Jack-Plug


Male / Female & Coupler Adapters
For each type of connection, it is possible to find Male/Female connection terminals.
It is typical to find a soundcard or the source output (console) is a female terminal as is the amplifier connection input commonly female. Therefore these require a male-male type lead to connect between both.

RCA
Instantly recognisable, as the RED/WHITE or sometimes found as RED/BLACK style connection. A very typical STEREO cable. These can come in many styles and of quality but all do the same thing. These have been used for decades with hi/fi, tv, video, console and audio household products.
As one of the more popular analog cable connections, these also have a vast range of adapters to connect with other cable terminals. The most common being 3.5mm Jacks.

Below are Male & Female stereo terminals for RCA connectors.

 
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Primarily yes, you have more control and these amps are well received in the home cinema community for working well at driving subs/tactile down below 10Hz. If you ever wanted to add another unit, even say a Clark TST model for the second channel this can be done. The Clark are better in detail/timing and for music applications. It is also possible to do what I refer to as "Dual Role" being a tactile enthusiast I incorporated both BK & TST to act as a woofer and midrange type roles. Using crossover control for each. This enables both units to shine in the areas they perform better with. Although Ive not seen or know of people doing this on a sofa/recliner.

*As mentioned in here I have tested on a temporary cockpit build, very high end option, compromising of 4x BK LFE and 4x TST 429 used in this principle. Comparing these two units, the TST 429 feels smoother, it can handle better delicate detail and is superior in my view especially with frequencies above 50Hz onwards in their sensation. A moving piston based model may have some minor delay compared to a voice coil based model also but this perhaps is more noticeable in some music. Yet the added sensation the LFE brings in sheer depth and energy cannot be ignored.

Although do note you can seek to alter the standard characteristic of the LFE via the PEQ to potentially try to boost some mid range bass frequencies slightly for more potential detail. This would really come down to the user's installation, how it delivers or absorbs frequencies and the users personal preferences with various sources. You may be tempted to try both an LFE and a TST 239 (still a good performer but not at the crazy price of the TST 429) and experiment in this yourself. Possibly take advantage of the returns poilcy at Parts Express and then return if it does not work out. Well just me sharing potential options for you to consider if feeling adventurous.

I would think that a TST unit that could be installed to be felt through the back region/spine area of the sofa (as sensative to vibrations). Believing this would work well with an LFE in the base section for thighs/backside. All I can say is this using BK/TST units like this also works well on a cockpit by using a TST to increase the detail of engine revs, engine audio/harmonics, transmission sounds and gear changes. I personally use a TST 329 Gold for this purpose to go into my back spine region in my race seat. It certainly further enhances things.

While saying this in the past in various forums, for me there is no single perfect tactile unit for all sources and material. Even taking the two best options in the BK-LFE and TST 429 we find they have their own advantages and short-comings to each other. Perhaps as a tactile nutter, in seeking on a cockpit the best possible immersion both in impact/depth but also detail, utilising both was going to bring each units advantages. Yet it's of course certainly not cheap nor practical or recommended for everyone.

"Do you feel that?"




14 AWG if under 25 Feet & 12 AWG if over.
Speakon 2 or 4 Pole for the amp connection.
The Full-Size BK-LFE can take the bare cables or Banana Plugs on the speaker cable.



You can create, low pass, high pass or even a band pass no problems
Then also apply PEQ or DEQ, and Gain control etc if desired.



Thats good as I think some are put off with the changing of the fans, but its so simple to do.
However their are it seems some people who go a little crazy with d.i.y mods lol. :)




I have not had personal experience of the EarthQuake models.
To my understanding, the BK-LFE is the best model on the market for the subharmonics in its sheer power. From memory of reading a persons comparison years ago on "AV Forums" they stated the Q10B was better for music in its timing but for movies did not extract the same sheer low-end energy.



It still can happen on bigger units, but it's less likely if you are not driving a unit close to its max potential or comfort zone. This is also evident if having 2 units to cover a large surface then both do not require as much wattage as one, so the user can get a better spread of vibration with 2 units using less power. This also can avoid a potential hotspot if one unit is installed and used at highest volumes, it could feel strongest, even too strong at the point of installation. This would all depend on the sofa too and its internal construction etc but I think you get the idea.

The DSP 6000 certainly can make a BK LFE bottom but really you don't want to be using the amps at close to their max to sustain good composure and limit any possible distortion. The 6000 has dual fans and is also much deeper/bigger case. I personally dont think you'd need more than a DSP3000 to run 2 BK-LFE. I have certainly had no issues on my cockpit.

The source material is also very much a factor. Movies may have soundtrack mixes that at times will dip below 15Hz or even 10Hz. Not that often but on say Simvibe it actually can create as low as 10Hz and even 5Hz frequently.

Here again, I point out the beauty of having PEQ control. For if you found certain frequencies at a set volume where causing an issue. Lets say 24Hz as a "Center Value" then you can reduce not only this frequency's sole amplitude to resolve the problem and still maintain the wattage for the full dynamic range. You then can also determine the "Q Factor" in basically when reducing/boosting a frequency how many other "Surrounding Frequencies" it also will be altering. So you can determine the "Slope" to be gentle or like a "Cliff" to only address the specific center frequency and not affect others. It sounds complicated but in reality, when you do it with the software you visually see what it's doing and can then feel it in realtime by using test-tones, if desired. This I believe is sometimes referred to as "narrowing" or "widening" the "Q Control" just like are found/used on many DAWs or plugins.




From what I have read in forums in the past, those that apply a solid hardwood (oak or other) cross section like the BK instructions show will help spread the energy much better and will give much better performance than the kit plate. You could try 1 unit first in the middle on its own cross section. The 2 in either front/back of the center or 1 each on each outer seat place out of reach of the recline mechanism. I am not an expert by an means and always recommend that regards installation its worth trying more than one option and seeking some creativity.

When you get tactile check out some of this guys music.
http://nigelstanford.com/

Hes rather famous in this area for this

I hope its useful in your own decisions...
Apologies in being so long winded with long posts.
GodBless

I'd rather have a long post with clear details like yours.
I've decided to start with one Buttkicker LFE with the behringer amp and the leg mounting kit.
Then if I want more I will add another transducer and mount them to the underside of my couch.

I've learned from past experiences that when you are jumping into something new that you should start off small to see if you will really like the experience.

I tell this to the people who ask me for help in building them a gaming computer. A lot of them want to dish out thousands of dollars but some of them end up never using the computer to it's full potential and go overboard.

I will let you know how it all goes. I will probably get the buttkicker and the amp next week and fiddle around with it for a while to see if it's worth it.
 
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I'd rather have a long post with clear details like yours.
I've decided to start with one Buttkicker LFE with the behringer amp and the leg mounting kit.
Then if I want more I will add another transducer and mount them to the underside of my couch.

I've learned from past experiences that when you are jumping into something new that you should start off small to see if you will really like the experience.

I tell this to the people who ask me for help in building them a gaming computer. A lot of them want to dish out thousands of dollars but some of them end up never using the computer to it's full potential and go overboard.

I will let you know how it all goes. I will probably get the buttkicker and the amp next week and fiddle around with it for a while to see if it's worth it.


Will be interested to hear how you get on...

You probably could get more specific feedback on AVS or similar forums for this type of installation. I do know that you would get better performance with direct mounting/installation rather than the convenience of the plate kit. Personally, I would of not bothered with the kit and opted to try the TST with the LFE as it's not much more expensive but that combination would in my view offer an improved immersion and detail.

This is not to say you won't get good sensation from the kit but I found with the Advance Kit version you lose out if not going with a direct install. For some, they don't want to go to the bother or take bottom cover off and do alterations to a sofa which is understandable. Although I've seen some instances a guy wanted too but such does not get approval from wife/partner.

Wish you well and look forward to your impressions with tactile.

Here is link for cable if you want to use the recommended fan shown previously.
I had to import these as couldn't find in UK nor wanted to ruin the original fan or cut the wires.
 
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Will be interested to hear how you get on...

You probably could get more specific feedback on AVS or similar forums for this type of installation. I do know that you would get better performance with direct mounting/installation rather than the convenience of the plate kit. Personally, I would of not bothered with the kit and opted to try the TST with the LFE as it's not much more expensive but that combination would in my view offer an improved immersion and detail.

This is not to say you won't get good sensation from the kit but I found with the Advance Kit version you lose out if not going with a direct install. For some, they don't want to go to the bother or take bottom cover off and do alterations to a sofa which is understandable. Although I've seen some instances a guy wanted too but such does not get approval from wife/partner.

Wish you well and look forward to your impressions with tactile.

Here is link for cable if you want to use the recommended fan shown previously.
I had to import these as couldn't find in UK nor wanted to ruin the original fan or cut the wires.

So if I were to go with that setup then what would be the full parts list?
So far I got;

The amp
https://www.parts-express.com/behringer-nu3000dsp-inuke-3000-watt-power-amplifier-with-dsp--248-6706

The buttkicker
https://www.amazon.com/ButtKicker-B...=1502489494&sr=8-1&keywords=ButtKicker+BK-LFE

The TST if I want to upgrade my experience.


The xlr to rca cable
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OSXBS...R1&ie=UTF8&qid=1502295031&sr=1&tag=racedep-20

The rubber isolaters
http://www.markertek.com/product/pe...inch-diameter-x-1-inch-high-large-rubber-foot

The hdmi splitter
https://www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Spli...o+Extractor+4K+HDMI+to+Optical&tag=racedep-20

The 4 pin to 2 pin for the fan
https://www.moddiy.com/products/4%2...-Mini-2%2dPin-GPU-Fan-Connector-(Female).html

What fan should I get to replace the old noisy one? You mentioned a Noctua fan but not which one.
What cable should I get to connect the buttkicker to the amp?

And just so I understand this clearly.
I need to connect the buttkicker and TST to the amp using some sort of banana plug or speaker wire to XLR cable. Then connect the amp to the hdmi splitter via an XLR to RCA cable?
 
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So if I were to go with that setup then what would be the full parts list?
So far I got;

The amp
https://www.parts-express.com/behringer-nu3000dsp-inuke-3000-watt-power-amplifier-with-dsp--248-6706

The buttkicker
https://www.amazon.com/ButtKicker-B...=1502489494&sr=8-1&keywords=ButtKicker+BK-LFE

The TST if I want to upgrade my experience.


The xlr to rca cable
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OSXBS...R1&ie=UTF8&qid=1502295031&sr=1&tag=racedep-20

The rubber isolaters
http://www.markertek.com/product/pe...inch-diameter-x-1-inch-high-large-rubber-foot

The hdmi splitter
https://www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Spli...o+Extractor+4K+HDMI+to+Optical&tag=racedep-20

The 4 pin to 2 pin for the fan
https://www.moddiy.com/products/4%2dPin-Standard-Fan-Connector-(Male)-to-Mini-2%2dPin-GPU-Fan-Connector-(Female).html

What fan should I get to replace the old noisy one? You mentioned a Noctua fan but not which one.
What cable should I get to connect the buttkicker to the amp?

And just so I understand this clearly.
I need to connect the buttkicker and TST to the amp using some sort of banana plug or speaker wire to XLR cable. Then connect the amp to the hdmi splitter via an XLR to RCA cable?

Yes I think all that is okay but you will need 14 AWG speaker cable to the desired length too.
You also will need suitable washers and approx 1.5" wood screws for the isolators.
Sorry about the fan I assumed you may have clicked the image for bigger size and seen the model details on the box. Ensure you get this model as I know of people having used these for over 2 years and no issues. NFR8 Redux 1800 PWM

This is old but will give you an idea:



BK - AMP & TST - AMP
Right, so the amp takes....
SpeakON connectors for the speaker channel OUTPUTS going to the tactile.
XLR sockets are for the INPUT from the source for both Left/Right - A/B INPUT Channels

BK LFE model has banana plug type terminals.
You can use bare cable or banana plugs to connect, simple. Allow enough spare cable for slack or if moving furniture etc. Then at the amp end you connect the cable to SpeakON connector. See videos on how to wire the SpeakON but it is simple screws.

The TST will be a bit more awkward as it has its own approx 1.5m already connected cable that needs to be joined to additional speaker cable length you require. You could solder or twine and wrap them in electrical tape or if want a more professional and secure connection you can use the same SpeakON type connector illustrated in how to connect the Mini LFE in this guide.

If so you need then 2 more SpeakON and a SpeakON Coupler. This allows you to easily connect or disconnect the original cable of the TST to the extended length you will have going to the amp.

SpeakON connectors you would need for both TST and BK.
BK LFE 1x
TST 3x & 1x COUPLER

TOTAL 4 & 1 COUPLER

I think with your PC understanding you would easily grasp the "Remote Connect" PC Software for the amp and will find it available to download on their website. Another great feature it has is digital wattage limiter, So you could set each unit to have their own MAX wattage that the amp will not go beyond. This way turning the vol knob too far on the amp will not be an issue to exceed in this example perhaps the TST recommended wattage.
 
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Yes I think all that is okay but you will need 14 AWG speaker cable to the desired length too.
You also will need suitable washers and approx 1.5" wood screws for the isolators.
Sorry about the fan I assumed you may have clicked the image for bigger size and seen the model details on the box. Ensure you get this model as I know of people having used these for over 2 years and no issues. NFR8 Redux 1800 PWM

This is old but will give you an idea:



BK - AMP & TST - AMP
Right, so the amp takes....
SpeakON connectors for the speaker channel OUTPUTS going to the tactile.
XLR sockets are for the INPUT from the source for both Left/Right - A/B INPUT Channels

BK LFE model has banana plug type terminals.
You can use bare cable or banana plugs to connect, simple. Allow enough spare cable for slack or if moving furniture etc. Then at the amp end you connect the cable to SpeakON connector. See videos on how to wire the SpeakON but it is simple screws.

The TST will be a bit more awkward as it has its own approx 1.5m already connected cable that needs to be joined to additional speaker cable length you require. You could solder or twine and wrap them in electrical tape or if want a more professional and secure connection you can use the same SpeakON type connector illustrated in how to connect the Mini LFE in this guide.

If so you need then 2 more SpeakON and a SpeakON Coupler. This allows you to easily connect or disconnect the original cable of the TST to the extended length you will have going to the amp.

SpeakON connectors you would need for both TST and BK.
BK LFE 1x
TST 3x & 1x COUPLER

TOTAL 4 & 1 COUPLER

I think with your PC understanding you would easily grasp the "Remote Connect" PC Software for the amp and will find it available to download on their website. Another great feature it has is digital wattage limiter, So you could set each unit to have their own MAX wattage that the amp will not go beyond. This way turning the vol knob too far on the amp will not be an issue to exceed in this example perhaps the TST recommended wattage.

Sorry for all the questions I appreciate you going over everything with me.
I am the type of person that likes to know every little detail before I jump in to something.

I have another question concerning the XLR to RCA cable you listed.
I noticed those types of cables are rather short.

Is it ok to purchase an extension for the RCA?
Would the distance affect the quality in any way?
And would you happen to know of any good quality cables to extend the RCA a couple of feet?

Everything else I have purchased and will take around a week or so for all of it to reach me.

I decided on purchasing the Buttkicker LFE first and seeing if I like the experience.
If I want more I will purchase the TST and figure out how I want them to work together.

I went with the 14 AWG speaker since I am definitely using less than 25 feet.
I noticed the 4 pin to 2 pin cable for the fan is very specialized as I could not really find it anywhere else except in the link you provided.
 
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Sorry for all the questions I appreciate you going over everything with me.
I am the type of person that likes to know every little detail before I jump in to something.

I have another question concerning the XLR to RCA cable you listed.
I noticed those types of cables are rather short.

Is it ok to purchase an extension for the RCA?
Would the distance affect the quality in any way?
And would you happen to know of any good quality cables to extend the RCA a couple of feet?

Everything else I have purchased and will take around a week or so for all of it to reach me.

I decided on purchasing the Buttkicker LFE first and seeing if I like the experience.
If I want more I will purchase the TST and figure out how I want them to work together.

I went with the 14 AWG speaker since I am definitely using less than 25 feet.
I noticed the 4 pin to 2 pin cable for the fan is very specialized as I could not really find it anywhere else except in the link you provided.

It might be easier to just buy a longer XLR-RCA cable than this short one and then adapt it with another RCA-RCA cable. Here is an example, you should find various lengths or a decent brand and nice quality cable for under $20. Just be sure to get dual MALE XLR - Stereo RCA. If you want/need a quality RCA-RCA for the original short cable we looked at. Then just find a brand of cable that looks decent, @ $10 should be plenty, no need to spend silly money.

The good thing is you will have the amp that powers 2 channels, you can add a TST at a later time if you want, try it and if you don't like it return it. I can help you if you want in going over the iNuke features and setup.

Do you have a laptop or easy way to view the Remote Connect software?
I am not sure if the amp comes with USB cable (likely not). It takes a "PRINTER STYLE" USB connection. So you may need one of these long enough to connect to a laptop or PC. The amp will always load up with the last preset used.

This video highlights some of the iNuke features.

 
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It might be easier to just buy a longer XLR-RCA cable than this short one and then adapt it with another RCA-RCA cable. Here is an example, you should find various lengths or a decent brand and nice quality cable for under $20. Just be sure to get dual MALE XLR - Stereo RCA. If you want/need a quality RCA-RCA for the original short cable we looked at. Then just find a brand of cable that looks decent, @ $10 should be plenty, no need to spend silly money.

The good thing is you will have the amp that powers 2 channels, you can add a TST at a later time if you want, try it and if you don't like it return it. I can help you if you want in going over the iNuke features and setup.

Do you have a laptop or easy way to view the Remote Connect software?
I am not sure if the amp comes with USB cable (likely not). It takes a "PRINTER STYLE" USB connection. So you may need one of these long enough to connect to a laptop or PC. The amp will always load up with the last preset used.

This video highlights some of the iNuke features.


Unfortunately the converter box you linked me does not work for my setup.
I've tried every type of connection and it still won't output the audio.

Edit:

I decided to change the items to make sure it works.
I went with this optical splitter instead since it is powered and some people had trouble with the non powered ones.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6UIAS2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I chose this optical to rca converter because it is said to support both 5.1 and PCM and I am unsure if my TV will support PCM through optical out. I do know it supports PCM through HDMI ARC. The other converter only supported PCM and not 5.1.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DZXWHJA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also had to get another optical cable since the splitter lacks one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11H38/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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Appreciate the update....

Thats one issue with these adapter boxes and so many of them.
It's a bit of a minefield but in fairness, I have not stated what was linked would work 100% or be guaranteed to work with your TV HDMI DRC. Often HDMI can cause complications.

The only way is to order and try and then if an issue return and try alternatives but yes it is possible to do.
 
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Appreciate the update....

Thats one issue with these adapter boxes and so many of them.
It's a bit of a minefield but in fairness, I have not stated what was linked would work 100% or be guaranteed to work with your TV HDMI DRC. Often HDMI can cause complications.

The only way is to order and try and then if an issue return and try alternatives but yes it is possible to do.
I am not blaming you.
I did some more research and found out that the HDMI ARC out won't work with such adapter boxes.

So I have no choice but to use optical.
Hopefully it works this time.
Still waiting on my inuke and buttkicker lfe.
Those should come in on monday.
The 4 pin to 2 pin cable should come in around the same time.
 
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Oh I know your not, I wanted to highlight to readers who may come along that there was an element of risk and concern with your HDMI ARC from the beginning is all. HDMI also can bring issues with these rather cheap adapters, for example, many not supporting 4K 60Hz or HDCP on movies etc.

Optical avoids these issues.
Look forward to you getting to get things up and running.
 
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Oh I know your not, I wanted to highlight to readers who may come along that there was an element of risk and concern with your HDMI ARC from the beginning is all. HDMI also can bring issues with these rather cheap adapters, for example, many not supporting 4K 60Hz or HDCP on movies etc.

Optical avoids these issues.
Look forward to you getting to get things up and running.
I should be getting the last of my stuff on Monday and will most likely try putting it together on Tuesday or when I am off work on Wednesday.
I've heard conflicting data on the optical splitters not working when multiple devices are plugged into it at once but I think these people are running it in reverse or buying a switcher thinking it is a splitter.

As long as there is only one audio source being split to multiple devices that receive that audio source then those devices should run at the same time with the same audio source being received.

I think some people are trying to run multiple audio sources into one receiver input which would definitely cause it not to work. Like running two gaming consoles into the splitter then connect the single side of the splitter into a speaker system.

A switcher is what that is made for so it can switch between each audio source.
 
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Oh I know your not, I wanted to highlight to readers who may come along that there was an element of risk and concern with your HDMI ARC from the beginning is all. HDMI also can bring issues with these rather cheap adapters, for example, many not supporting 4K 60Hz or HDCP on movies etc.

Optical avoids these issues.
Look forward to you getting to get things up and running.

So I got everything up and running. Still haven't tried switching out the fan since I haven't got the 4 pin to 2 pin cable.
At first I thought the Buttkicker was not working and I wasted a bit of time messing with the cables.
Then I noticed the speakon connection has to twist a little before it will fully push in to the amp.

After that it worked.

My only issue is tweaking the low and high filters in order to get the results I want.
I want explosions and such to have a kick but not things like a low voice.
I've messed with the 3 types of filters available along with the dB slope and frequency cut off.
I've almost got what I want but not quite. Certain things still set off the buttkicker and if I try and lower the gain to get rid of it then the explosions lose their punch.
 
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Okay it may be best to try skype and do it in real time.
PM me and we can arrange, I can take you through the iNuke stuff.

You may need to use crossover but then also PEQ to boost/cut specific Hz accordingly.
 
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Okay it may be best to try skype and do it in real time.
PM me and we can arrange, I can take you through the iNuke stuff.

You may need to use crossover but then also PEQ to boost/cut specific Hz accordingly.
Thanks for all this help.
I have work soon but I am off tomorrow and the next day so if you are available during such a time then I will do the skype chat.
Is there a private message function on this forum. I would like to send you my Skype name.
 
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Yes that may suit and yes PM is available as suggested.
Keep in mind I am based in GMT region.

It is possible to use additional tools, here's another example of how brilliant the iNuke is over a standard amp or traditional BK amp.

The Dynamic EQ (DEQ) can be set to illustrate a boost or cut to either a wide or narrow range of Hz.
It also contains a threshold control and also a bandpass filter.

Bandpass Type Filter
Lets say we set a 20Hz wide range boosted by 5dB+. Then only this 20Hz wide selected range is being boosted with a peak of energy. We can do the opposite to cut it by-5dB. Basically whatever frequency it is covering, then the user can clearly feel as it is being boosted or cut (up to +15dB or -15dB).

You can then slide/position this "frequency band" across the "frequency range" to help determine the frequencies being used by a specific element. Let's say its frequencies that voices are using, you don't want the LFE to be operating with. Yet you don't know what frequencies these voices are using, right?

Sure if things were all connected into a spectrum visualiser you could see all frequencies in operation. Yet using this technique you don't have to. For as you reposition/slide this "frequency band" you will feel what it is cutting or boosting. So you can then determine and fine tune how wide (The Q factor) has to be to cover the element in this case "voices" you are wanting to modify/alter.

Once you know a good range to cover this, you can use the PEQ or DEQ to reduce/filter just those frequencies or even basically cut them out with a -15dB within a crossover range being used.

Its so so easy to do and then you can save the profile.
You may find depending on the content what Hz you use on the BK-LFE varies and here you can save presets for games, movies, tv or music.

Look forward to chatting...
 
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