Ahhh, Fanatec Clubsport Pedal V2 problems, please help

I just received a set of CSP V2s and I'm having major issues. 3 days dealing with all sorts of issues.

First of all my gas was having issues with going to 100% braking and back to 0%. Also would do some spiking here and there. I then figured I'd install the drivers, I did and now they work perfect in that sense. So I figured the issue was that I didn't originally have the driver installed, so I uninstalled the driver and re-tested and they still work good. Weird, but whatever at least the throttle is working now.

1. Then on the second day (after installing the driver) all of a sudden the brake takes way too much force to get to 100% braking (according to Fanatec driver control panel and Windows control panel). Just 24 hours ago it was perfect. Setting the load cell to 10 (the easiest) is more like setting it to 5 or so. How did this just happen in one day? I havent even used them apart from calibration testing.

2. The load-cell issue above coincided with all the hydraulic feeling being gone in the pedals. It all of a sudden - in the space of 1 day - felt like a regular spring, non-loadcell brake. Just brake until the pedal hits a stop/"wall" and then once I hit the wall then I need to push more and more against the load cell. You literally have to push the pedal all the way until it comes to a physical stop and then that's when you have to push more and more to activate the load cell. Just the day before it had a relatively amazing fluid/hydraulic-like feel. What the??....

3. So I decided to take the oil out and refill it just in case. I filled the big cylinder all the way to the top, the very very top, but the small cyclinder I filled until the screw threads began. I wasn't sure exactly which way to do it since I cant for the life of me find a CSP V2 manual anywhere, just the vague-as-hell "manual video". Anyways, so as I am screwing the cyclinder tops back on I can't screw them all the way down because the clearish-white rings will have little sections that pop out and stick out once you tighten it to a certain point. It does this on both cylinders, I can't even tighten the reservoir tops down because the rings partially pop out!!! Ahhhhhhh

Seriously, this is the most ridiculous and cumbersome set of pedals I've ever dealt with...

Why did it all of a sudden loose it's hydraulic-like feeling over night? Why does it all of a sudden (over night) take a crap load of force to get full braking while in the weakest mode? Do I fill the oil up to the very top of the cyclinders or just to where the threads start? Why are both cylinder-top rings popping out when around 50-75% screwed in? Are the cyclinder tops not supposed to be fully screwed down?

When you spend this money and you just have problem after problem, question after question, weird behaviour after weird behaviour, while the 7 or 8 different pedals you've bought for a third or quarter of the price over the past 10 years don't give you issues, then you want to go mental. 3 days tinkering with these things like a full time job!!! Please help before I throw these things through my wall, lol :)
 
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Ok well for starters the stock Shock as its been discussed lacks on many fronts, The First Not being able to hold any oil/pressure for any length of time. Next would be the fact it will literally eat itself alive due to being such a low quality Pot metal. This is turn leads to the shock feeling great for the first few session's and once you've worked thing's in, It will start to leak, Introduce air to the system and then your back at square one.

The load cell not activating till the end of the travel is part of the poor Stock position of the Brake pedal pivot arm. Raise the Pivot up One hole and it All of a sudden works as it should,

Where have you sourced the load cells from ? Stock Fanatec's ? Might have an issue right there if you've been through 3 cells already....Never had to oil my pedals, Granted i don't race in silence, Shaker's and what not going.
Fanatec uses about the cheapest Load Cell available. They are junk. There are some nice high end load cells out there and Fanatec chose these things. I can only guess why? Probably to keep cost down....I'm sure some guy with the proper tools could Mod these pedals to work with a better load cell setup. Should not have to do that though.
 
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Hi...I did get a replacement Load Cell for Fanatec.....It took 3 weeks to get the problem taken care of. I guess I am spoiled. I build my rigs with quality components from reputable companies and have never had such slow service. Fanatec did give me a free Load Cell....woopeeeee.
I bought 4 of these cell on Ebay for 5 bucks and free shipping. Fanatec charges 15 bucks plus 1250 shipping...WTF....
Anyway, I did the Mugen RC shock mod with an nice improvement to the pedals. Now that they work after the mod I am starting to like them very much. Before I was a little strong in my opinion of the Clubsports. But for Christ sake Fanatec...just sen a spare Load cell. Is that too much to ask?
A 1 Dollar item....jeeez

I bought a used set of V1 CSP on eBay. There is also a buy selling V1 and V2 load sells on ebay for $20.00. Don't have to wait for Fanatec.

I am planning on modding my V1 CSP with a shock. Can you tell me a bit more about what the shock does to improve the break? Are there issues with the shock leaking oil on the break block and floor? Lastly, Mugen RC shock?? Is that a brand of the shock or the car the shock is used on?
 
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you guys really should try putting a mugen shock on your csp's, the fanatec shock is garbage, also if you want your brake to feel 100 times better then move the pivot arm up a hole on your brake arm.

Hi,

Can you point out specifically which shock you are referring to, or what is the length of the shock from hole to hole fully extended? I want to mod my V1 CSP and add a shock.
 
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Gpruitt54 is aware of that Terry, His reply on the other CSP thread


Yeah, I have seen the Bob Shock on other forums. I am considering doing something that on my V1 CSP. I have a milling machine and I could fabricate something easy enough. I only need to discover which size shock fits. That may be the hardest part. I've emailed Fanated to ask the the specifications on the shock they use in the V2 pedals. We will see where that goes.

Another big question. Does the shock actually work? Does it make the break perform better? Please describe
 
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Excellent, this is what I was looking for. Can you talk about how the shock improves the function of breaking? Do these shocks leak? I have read that the stock shock would tend to leak. Finally, can you post photos of this shock on your pedal set?
Compatible with CSP V2....yes No problems fitting to pedals.
The Mugen is much higher grade shock and works beautifully with the CSP V's
No leaking and the brake pedal feels so much better than the stock Fanatec shock.
Unfortunately you may have to assemble the shock...instructions can be found online.
 
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just to chime in with my opinion here since i have access to pretty much everything being argued here.
TL;DR CSP v2 with mugen shock is the way to go hands down without spending 1k+ on DSD or Main performance sim pedals

quick background: I started with Thrustmaster TX pedals, think we can all agree they suck. My brother has a G27, my dad(yes he sim races and its awesome) has the CSR Elite pedals, and i have the CSP v2 pedals, with a mugen shock as well as the CSR regular pedals (spare set i got with a CSR Forza wheel while i wait for my CSP base v2 to come since i sold my v1 and tx)

g27 are a joke and really arent worth talking about. they get the job done for someone wanting to have a very cheap rig with a clutch. if you just want to play for fun and arent too serious great set for the price...

CSR regular pedals aren't much better than g27 but do have better springs but the pedals feel like you are going to break them half the time.

CSR Elite. for the price they are nice pedals, have significantly more metal than the regular ones and have a load cell which is nice.

...however the things that the CSP v2 pedals has are easily worth the extra money and then some. the clutch sucks on all the others compared to the degressive one found on csp , there is essentially zero plastic, and the i have never had any problems with them however the only complaint i have with the csp v2s are the shock is pretty much a joke. it isnt awful i suppose but it just isn't fluid enough you can feel air in it and makes for a slight annoyance. however spend 40 bucks (or split the 2 pack like i did and only spend 20) and you have a damn good set of pedals.

IMO if you think the CSR Elite pedals are better than the CSP v2 pedals you are either: too cheap/dont have the funds to spend 250 on them or you have never actually tried them
 
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just to chime in with my opinion here since i have access to pretty much everything being argued here.
TL;DR CSP v2 with mugen shock is the way to go hands down without spending 1k+ on DSD or Main performance sim pedals

quick background: I started with Thrustmaster TX pedals, think we can all agree they suck. My brother has a G27, my dad(yes he sim races and its awesome) has the CSR Elite pedals, and i have the CSP v2 pedals, with a mugen shock as well as the CSR regular pedals (spare set i got with a CSR Forza wheel while i wait for my CSP base v2 to come since i sold my v1 and tx)

g27 are a joke and really arent worth talking about. they get the job done for someone wanting to have a very cheap rig with a clutch. if you just want to play for fun and arent too serious great set for the price...

CSR regular pedals aren't much better than g27 but do have better springs but the pedals feel like you are going to break them half the time.

CSR Elite. for the price they are nice pedals, have significantly more metal than the regular ones and have a load cell which is nice.

...however the things that the CSP v2 pedals has are easily worth the extra money and then some. the clutch sucks on all the others compared to the degressive one found on csp , there is essentially zero plastic, and the i have never had any problems with them however the only complaint i have with the csp v2s are the shock is pretty much a joke. it isnt awful i suppose but it just isn't fluid enough you can feel air in it and makes for a slight annoyance. however spend 40 bucks (or split the 2 pack like i did and only spend 20) and you have a damn good set of pedals.

IMO if you think the CSR Elite pedals are better than the CSP v2 pedals you are either: too cheap/dont have the funds to spend 250 on them or you have never actually tried them


What sim equipment do you own before calling someone else a "cheap ass" or not having the funds to buy the CSP v2's? I assure you money was not a hurdle for me when I made my decision to buy the CSR Elites. I currently own a Thrustmaster T500RS, TX, T300RS, Fanatec CSW v2, Fanatec CSR Elite pedals, TH8RS shifter, TH8A shifter, and have a CSS v1.5 on order so please tell me how I'm too cheap or don't have the measly $250 to spend on a set of pedals that have notorious reliability issues. I noticed you just joined the forum today and to post this steaming pile of BS...

I'm thrilled that you're happy with the CSP's but the iRacing forum has shown me how shitty they are from a reliability standpoint. Really wish I could link the DOZENS of threads that have people complaining about their reliability issues but unfortunately you can't view them unless you're an iRacing member. On the other hand, I rarely EVER see a complaint about the CSR Elites. They're quite possibly Fanatec's best product ever made so far.
 
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I'm extremely happy with my CSR Elite pedals but they are a bit noisy and there's a bit too much side to side wiggle in the pedals, especially the throttle. I'm considering a upgrade at some point but the thing is that I've not really found a better set of pedals that can be inverted stand alone like these, so I've yet to find a reasonably priced upgrade that will fully replace them.
 
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Whats the problem Kjell ? V2's can be flipped....Sure not as easily as other's but it can be done.

Sure, now mount them to a flat surface like a floor or the pedal tray on a wheel stand.
That's why I specifically said "inverted stand alone". To my knowledge this is only possible with the CSR Elite, T500 and the brand new Maine Performance Pc pedals that are waaaaaay out of my budget.
 
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What sim equipment do you own before calling someone else a "cheap ass" or not having the funds to buy the CSP v2's? I assure you money was not a hurdle for me when I made my decision to buy the CSR Elites. I currently own a Thrustmaster T500RS, TX, T300RS, Fanatec CSW v2, Fanatec CSR Elite pedals, TH8RS shifter, TH8A shifter, and have a CSS v1.5 on order so please tell me how I'm too cheap or don't have the measly $250 to spend on a set of pedals that have notorious reliability issues. I noticed you just joined the forum today and to post this steaming pile of BS...

I'm thrilled that you're happy with the CSP's but the iRacing forum has shown me how shitty they are from a reliability standpoint. Really wish I could link the DOZENS of threads that have people complaining about their reliability issues but unfortunately you can't view them unless you're an iRacing member. On the other hand, I rarely EVER see a complaint about the CSR Elites. They're quite possibly Fanatec's best product ever made so far.

lol and may i ask why you completely ignored the other reason you may think the CSR Elites are better...there was a or statement in there (ahem you have never tried them). I do have iRacing account so please do link; however the same can be said about any sim hardware there are a lot of horror stories for any product with the exception of maybe logitech. I went through 3 TX Wheels before i finally got one that worked properly. It doesn't mean its a shitty product, i just got the bad draw a few times.
 
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lol and may i ask why you completely ignored the other reason you may think the CSR Elites are better...there was a or statement in there (ahem you have never tried them). I do have iRacing account so please do link; however the same can be said about any sim hardware there are a lot of horror stories for any product with the exception of maybe logitech. I went through 3 TX Wheels before i finally got one that worked properly. It doesn't mean its a shitty product, i just got the bad draw a few times.

Man, there's nothing that special about the CSPs over the CSR Elites other than the digressive clutch which I'll admit is very cool, even though most people never use a clutch. The all metal construction SEEMS like it should be better and make the pedals more durable but the CSR Elite's hold up very well with their metal and plastic construction just fine. I've never heard of anyone claiming they broke any of the plastic parts of their CSR Elites. The biggest issue is exactly as I described, its not about how cool the CSP's look, its about their questionable reliability which is well documented. The bottom line is this, when Fanatec can build a set of CSP's that actually hold up as well as the CSR Elites and I'll be happy to buy a set, no questions asked, I promise. Hell, I've stayed away from the CSS shifter due to the v1.0 issues but fellow RD forum member @Kjell Eilertsen has just about convinced me to at least give it a shot so I'm willing to take a chance on v1.5 and I ordered one which should be here in February. Hopefully its more reliable than the v1.0's were but my Thrustmaster TH8RS and TH8A are both working like the day I unboxed them and I rarely read about anyone having issues with them.

However, none of that changes the fact that the CSP v2's still remain unreliable and I won't buy any until that's resolved. If you haven't been reading through this forum, my CSW v2 broke after 11 days of use. All of my Thrustmaster products are still working fine, some are over a year old now. The CSW v2 is a thing of beauty, it just looks like its been engineered to be extremely durable but 11 days and it broke and I'm not the only one that had to send a CSW v2 back for repair already. The iRacing forum has quite a few members that have had to send theirs back already too and the scary part is that we've all had different issues so there could be more than one design flaw or maybe its just terrible QC at the Fanatec factory, either way its pretty hard to just give them a pass on their products when they break so easily. Granted their customer service was good about issuing an RMA quickly, but 11 days of use for the price I paid for a CSW v2 base and a rim is rather ridiculous. The running joke about Fanatec has been for quite some time, they have great products...when they work.

If you perform a search on the iRacing hardware forum for "CSP Problem", I found 12 PAGES of results. You could spend two weeks reading through the various failures and issues. At least every week is seems there's another forum member posting about issues with the CSP's.

http://members.iracing.com/jforum/jforum.page?module=search&action=search&search_keywords=CSP problem&match_type=all&search_forum=615&sort_by=relevance


And on that note, as someone said it best on the iRacing forum:
"It's Fanatec...always have a back up plan"
 
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I'm extremely happy with my CSR Elite pedals but they are a bit noisy and there's a bit too much side to side wiggle in the pedals, especially the throttle. I'm considering a upgrade at some point but the thing is that I've not really found a better set of pedals that can be inverted stand alone like these, so I've yet to find a reasonably priced upgrade that will fully replace them.

Maybe check to see if any of the hardware is loose Kjell. My CSR Elites are very quiet and I don't have any side to side wiggle that bothers me. They aren't as quite as rigid as my T500 pedals because there's just a small amount of "give" in the plastic and the tray-like design of the pedals means that each entire pedal mounts in a rail thus the whole assembly can be moved very slightly. The T500 pedals don't have this issue because the pedals are not mounted in rails. But I certainly wouldn't say my CSR Elites wiggle enough that I even consider it noticeable under normal use without actually grabbing the pedal with my hand and moving it. I did watch a video review of the CSR Elites a few days ago where they mounted them inverted and I noticed when he pushed on one of the pedals it made a slight squeak, but mine aren't inverted and I don't even know if that was the reason for the squeak or just wear and tear.
 
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Hell, I've stayed away from the CSS shifter due to the v1.0 issues but fellow RD forum member @Kjell Eilertsen has just about convinced me to at least give it a shot so I'm willing to take a chance on v1.5 and I ordered one which should be here in February.
Man what pressure I feel now, knowing your luck with the CSW v2 I bet your CSS is gonna break and I'm gonna feel like **** for having swayed your decision :p
I really really do love mine though, it's just as you said, the Fanatec gear is bloody brilliant when it works so if you can live with some downtime or have a backup plan, it's great gear ^^
Though I've not had any huge issues so far in my 2+ years as a Fanatec customer, very happy so far.

Maybe check to see if any of the hardware is loose Kjell. My CSR Elites are very quiet and I don't have any side to side wiggle that bothers me.
Don't think anything is loose, I'll give it a proper look later on, but Shaun Cole mentioned the same wiggle in his review of the pedals when he was still with ISR so I don't think it's uncommon.

I did watch a video review of the CSR Elites a few days ago where they mounted them inverted and I noticed when he pushed on one of the pedals it made a slight squeak
Both my throttle and clutch pedals squeak, they did before inversion and they still do. I have a hard time locating exactly where the squeaking is coming from but I believe it's from one of the ends of the spring where it hits the stoppers.
 
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Man what pressure I feel now, knowing your luck with the CSW v2 I bet your CSS is gonna break and I'm gonna feel like **** for having swayed your decision :p
I really really do love mine though, it's just as you said, the Fanatec gear is bloody brilliant when it works so if you can live with some downtime or have a backup plan, it's great gear ^^
Though I've not had any huge issues so far in my 2+ years as a Fanatec customer, very happy so far.


Don't think anything is loose, I'll give it a proper look later on, but Shaun Cole mentioned the same wiggle in his review of the pedals when he was still with ISR so I don't think it's uncommon.


Both my throttle and clutch pedals squeak, they did before inversion and they still do. I have a hard time locating exactly where the squeaking is coming from but I believe it's from one of the ends of the spring where it hits the stoppers.

Hah, you better be right about the CSS. I've actually had good luck with all of my sim racing products, the CSW v2 is the first one that broke.

I swear I've never heard a single squeak from mine, not sure if you've made any adjustments or changed anything since you got them but the only thing I've done is increase the gas pedal pressure to its highest resistance, and I believe I did the same with clutch.
 
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Most never use the clutch



Lo F'ing L Why do we spend 200+ on fancy H pattern shifter's for. TO NOT use the clutch.

100% disagree

Most people buy a stand alone shifter for sequential shifters, but if that's the best rebuttal you got, I can live with that. Sure people buy a H-pattern hoping to have some fun rowing gears and later end up rarely using it after the novelty wears off. Do you know how many cars in iRacing using a clutch out of the total of 38 available? 12, and only about 5 of those care are raced regularly every season.

I'd expect nothing less from Fanatec's number one fan though. Keepin' it bias as usual.
 
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